Rafter to structural beam connection
Hi folks,
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I’d like to convert my breezeway to a year round room but first I need to resolve a design/structure issue. The house is a Colonial with the eave facing street and the garage gable faces the street. There’s about 12 feet separating the two structures. The floor of the breezeway is a concrete slab and I’d like to build it up with 2x material so that it can be insulated and match the floor level in the main house. The roof is in good condition and I’d like to avoid modifying it if possible.
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Here’s the problem: I don’t have the necessary 7 inches between the exterior door rough opening and the beam that supports the eave to allow me to raise the floor. And yes, it is a structural beam that runs from the gable end of the house to the garage wall just below the eave. The breezeway walls are just 5/4 material on the flat with storm windows and a screen door. The rafters sit on the beam in typical fashion and are flush cut with it – ie. No overhang.
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Since we’re dealing with structural beams at both eaves of the breezeway and since there are no soffits to deal with is it possible/advisable to cut back the rafters, raise the beam (or replace with a stronger one), and attach the rafters to the face of the beam with hangers?
Thanks,
Alan
Replies
Hey Alan ,
Just a bump to keep you alive , and some suggestions while you wait for the others to answer .
You are going to have to supply more information , like lumber sizes . Post some pictures , if you can . And do some searches of other discussions pertaining to what you are asking , rafters and porch remodels are talked about often . Fill in your profile, it helps .
Earlier this week ,may be last week there was quite a lively discussion about a similar project.
DAVE
ABrowning,
How's about adding another beam and moving the new insulated wall into the breezway past the exterior door and adding a new interior door. This would give you a 4'? overhung entry/walkway.
OR,
Move the exterior door in and make it an interior door, this would give no overhang at the eave.
SamT
Edited 1/12/2006 4:48 pm by SamT
I had to read this three times and am still not sure I have the picture here, but I am old and dried up so don't let that bother you.
The required 7"? Is that the amt you will be raising the floor with framing?
What size is the beam?
I sounds liek it is 12' long, but how wide is the breezeway? What part of the country do you live in?
with only a third oif the pertinent info, I have to do some guessing and assuming, but it seems to me that by framing an insulated wall with studs under this beam, you reduce the distance it must span to the width of the RO for the door or windows you use in it.
So for instance, it is possible that where you are now required to have a 12" deep beam, a 6" deep beam may suffice, allowing you to remove a portion of it where the door goes.
for another option, it is not hard to get a 6'2" door instead of a typical 6'8" door
Another idea, depending on the use of the room, layout, and overall size, the space immediately insiode the door, say 5' x 6' could be left lower. the advantage oif this is that cold air seeking a lower level will pool in that recess, leaving the rest of the room more comfortable.
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You could do as you suggest and build your beam in the same space as the rafters, cutting them and hanging them from the beam. You will still need to reframe the walls. Is it possible that you could reduce the size of the beam since there is a framed wall underneath it? Depending on the span required over the windows, it is possible that headers considerably smaller than the existing beam could allow you to fit the new door it the available space.