Which is the proper connector to use for the rafter to wall connection on the bottom of the gable wall. 8′ wall with no soffit.
Either of these in images?
Which is the proper connector to use for the rafter to wall connection on the bottom of the gable wall. 8′ wall with no soffit.
Either of these in images?
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Replies
Either one for a cathedral ceiling. You don't need either one when using ceiling joists depending on what area you're in.
Hurricane straps are now required by code even here in Minnesota.
Hurricane straps are now required by code even here in Minnesota.Hurricane straps are now required by code even here in Minnesota.
Even when using ceiling joists? There are two towns here in NJ that require this that I know of so far. They are making up their own rules because it is not code. Not worth arguing it. It just sucked the first time I found out because it wasn't on the plans and I had to go back and put in almost 300 ties. Had I known I would've figured the time and material in the job.
Even when using ceiling joists?
In Michigan, all roof framing - trusses, cathedral, or conventional ceiling with overlays - require metal tie downs.
Truss designs will list an uplift rating that we have to account for in the choice of tie down.
Terry
Pretty sure it's required even with ceiling joists. I know this because I was the designee for installing a bunch of the things in an H4H house, and it was low-budget -- certainly no cathedral ceilings.
The things really go slow with a hammer -- I'm guessing a palm nailer would speed up the process quite a bit. But still it's up and down a ladder again and again and again.
Yes, will be cathedral.
Either one is fine then. Do you have a set of plans that spec which one?
No I don't.
The best thing to do is figure out what uplift load you need to design for. Then check the load tables from the manufacturer to see what you need to restrain that amount of uplift.
But given that you're just working with rafters I doubt you have too much uplift. The one on the right in your picture is less expensive and easiest to install, so that's what I would likely go with.
The "tie" in the picture
The "tie" in the picture (which is on the right in top photo) is the one I would have to go with, being that the ends of the rafters, end flush with the outside of framing top plate (there is no soffit). If I used the one on the left of picture, the corners of the metal clip where the 2x sits in would be proud of the rafter, being that it is a cathedral ceiling with the rafters running up on an angle. Am I explaining this clear enough to form a mental picture?
My concern is, being that the ties would have to be attached on the interior side of framing (no way to attach on outer edge of rafter ,no soffit) I'm thinking all the nails from nailing off the ties on the lower half of the tie that attaches to the top plate will interfere with the drwyall when placed over the installed ties and screwed off. I can envision the nails from the ties underneath creating a uneven surface under the drywall, which I'm concerned will compromise the drywall once screwed off at the top plate.
Am I making to much of this? Is there a "certain style" rafter tie that is used in this type of framing, when a soffit is not being installed?
On a side note to this thread, what is the Simpson 3' strapping (or similar strapping on coil roll) used for? Is it to tie two seperate floor levels together, or for strapping the sill plate to the sheathing??????
I ask because while I was looking at some of these rafter ties today at the local box store, some guy was asking an emplyeee about these and was getting different answers from the different people, kinda funny actually (or sad).
Just peaked my curiosity, as I never knew either what exactly the strapping was used for. Then started to" wonder" if I should be using them? Guess i'll know once I know exactly what they are for.
Ties like that are installed on the inside surfaces of framing all the time, as are the "ears" on electrical boxes, mounting straps for water pipes, etc. Yes, it makes it a minor PITA for the rocker, but it comes with the territory.
Ever since I was a small kid, whenever someone says "strapping" I run the other direction.
Funny.........................but not helpful! :)
Engineers in my area typically spec these two connectors interchangeably. For 2x rafters or trusses, the H1 (plate style) is fine. For wider stuff like two-ply trusses or cantilevered beams, they'll want a pair of the strap style ties, one on either side of the bearing member.
I decided to go with the H! plates and just tap over the exposed metal piece to not interfere with drywall install