I’m building my own workshop on a slab 26×48′. My previous shop was built on a flat deck so it was easy to raise the framed and fully sheathed wall. In this case there are anchor bolts and bolts for the hold downs that stick up 3 to 5 inches. What technique is used to get that wall upright and over those bolts? Any suggestions would be appreciated. I was planning on raising it in 16 foot sections 10 ft high.
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
The "She Build" initiative is empowering women in Seattle, WA by ensuring they have safe, healthy homes.
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
We frame 99.9% on slabs w/ bolts 32" OC!
Here's one way to do it: Pick up the wall to about waist height and push the bottom plate tight against the bolts. Now raise the wall up and it should be on top of the bolts. Finesse each one in (while a helper holds the wall) and the bolts should be no prob.
I have also lifted walls solo, but my methods are neither safe, easy, nor fast, so I'll refrain from posting them unless asked. Building a long wall in sections (like you mention) also require some thought as to how to double plate them to code, so we generally do that only as a last resort.
Might be too late for you unless you want to saw off those bolts.
We raise the walls and then drill and epoxy all thread which extends through the top plates and ties the whole structure to the footing.
One time I built a low platform the length of the wall section and at the height of the highest bolt. Set the bottom plate on that and stood the wall up. Got lucky and the whole thing dropped off the back of the platform and over the bolt holes which were lined up and the braces and extra muscle kept it from falling over. Landed with a big THUMP!
We bolt the bottom plates down then toe nail the studs to the plates after we raise the wall. If the walls are taller than 9' we fireblock them which helps keep everything together. You can still sheath them on the slab if you like, but in my experience it is better to sheath after they are standing due to the ups and downs in the concrete.John
I'll be doing that on a small addition come monday.
We have the anchor bolts in and the PT bottom plates bolted and glued down alrteady. I'll notch or drill the next base plate if needed, and then do layout, build walls over scrap dunnage to keep it up that 1-1/2", sheath, and lift into place as normal.
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
It's done all the time.
Set the J bolts so they are off layout of the studs, i.e. set to what will be the middle of a stud bay. If you end up with one that is under a stud, you can recess it into the mudsill.
Set the mudsill on the concrete and tighten it up making sure it is straight and level (shim a little if you need to).
Frame your wall on the ground, you can use a temporary bottom plate while framing to help line up the studs, then square the wall and sheath. You should position the wall right along the edge of the mudsill so when you stand it up it will be on the mudsill. We also often use a thin metal strap from the under side of a couple of studs on to the mudsill, plumbers strap works, that will help stop the wall sliding as you lift it.
Remove the temporary bottom plate, you either screwed it or used a double hanger nail so this would be easy.
Now stand the wall straight up with either people or wall jacks, brace it to hold the top steady and nail the studs to the mudsill.
Fold up the next three walls.