Replies

1. 
   Stilletto | Oct 30, 2006 01:32am | #1

   I use pocket hole screws and glue.  The fillets cover the holes.  It's a very stong connection. 

    

    

2. 
   robert | Oct 30, 2006 01:52am | #2

    It sounds more complicated than it is, but here is how I do it.

      Once I have the rail in place, I shoot it in with a nail or two from my finish nailer.

    Then I screw it from the opposite site of the newel. I use a 3 1/2" #12 Phillips head Sheatmetal screw. Buy good ones.

      I line up where I want to put the screw. Be sure that when you are done it won't break thru the bottom or top of the rail.

       Then I start with 1/2 Speedbore that I've ground down just a little. I drill roughly halfway thru the newel block (3" wide. A little more on 3 1/2") Then Drill a hole all the wway with a 1/4" or 3/16" bit. Then I drive the screw tight.

    I use Sheetmeatl screws because the threads that go all the way make for a tighter fit. Woodscrews stop driving and then the heads break off.

     Use a fair amount of a quality glue also.

      plug the 1/2" hole with the proper plug.

     

1. 
   Ragnar17 | Oct 30, 2006 02:34am | #3

   Robert,

   I like to use a technique similar to yours. 

   One difference is that I'll drill the pilot hole BEFORE the rail is tacked into position.  That is, I START the hole on the side where the handrail will butt into the newel.  With this method, I feel more comfortable knowing the screw will enter the rail exactly where I want it to (and not poke out a bit somewhere).

   My favorite way of doing things is to use a hollow box newel which hides a structural post (usually a 4x4).  I make the newels myself and build them with floating panels.  It's a bit difficult to explain in words, but what I'll do is leave a couple of the floating panels loose (that is, the post won't be 100% assembled).  When the newel post is ready to be installed, I'll set the base of it, but will then slide a couple of the panels up and out to gain acccess to the 4x4 post.  I'll then attach the handrail to the newel just as you described (and will fill any gaps between the INSIDE face of the box newel and the 4x4 post with shims before running in the screws, of course).

   The final step is just dropping the floating panel back in, gluing in the top rail, and installing the cap detail.  In this fashion, there are no holes to plug; all the hardware is hidden behind the finish faces of the box newel. 

   On corner newels, I'll leave both the top rail and the midrail loose on one side, so I remove the top TWO panels if necessary to attach the handrail should it strike the post fairly low. 

   Hope that makes sense!

   This method also works well when I'm building plain newels (i.e. no floating panels, just S4S stock) on site; I'll just leave off one face until the screws are all secured to the handrails.  Then the final face goes on and everything is neatly hidden.

    

3. 
   IdahoDon | Oct 30, 2006 05:12am | #4

   If the rail is going uphill from the newel I like to install two #9 deck screws as far apart as possible and still be covered with the baluster spacer trim or installed through holes to be plugged.  Predrilling is usually with extra long drill bits to get a good angle. 

   If the rail is going down away from the newel it's usually something I'll attach from the far side with deck screws if it's paintgrade and the method above for staingrade. 

    

   Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.