I have been installing a kitchen the last few days and found out today they are reusing their old microwave range hood.
During the demo the screws must have been thrown away with the cabinet, so now I can’t install the thing.
I am looking for the size of the screw that goes through the upper cabinet into the top of the range hood. Anybody know the thread size? That is if they are universal.
This 654-sq.-ft. ADU combines vaulted ceilings, reclaimed materials, and efficient design, offering a flexible guest suite and home office above a new garage.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial NowGet instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
Replies
We all hope you are getting paid by the hour.
Customer-furnished anything, new or used, makes me cringe.
"But wait, Stilletto, I thought I said we were going to re-use the old (fill in item of choice), and you would not have to furnish a new one. Why isn't there a credit for that? Why is the change actually more?"
I got a call from the GC, he dumps this job on me, by that I mean he told me over the phone what he wants done and I haven't heard from him until today to ask how much money I wanted.
I had no idea that they wanted to reuse the thing. Going to look like crap in a kitchen full of new cherry cabinets. I didn't do the demo of the old kitchen, so I am left with a range hood and a mounting plate. No templates, no hardware.
For some reason they want it, even after a new one would probably be the same price as me installing the old one.
the last three I dealt with had two screws through the top about 3 1/4 inches long and I think about a 1/4-28. The heads where prbably about 3/4 inch diameter, solved with a washer.
Template wise for the back the instructions all said one screw/toggle bolt through Hole A and B (upper lft and upper right). One screw/toggle bolts through Holes c and D (lower left and right) and a lag bolt into a stud within Area E along the bottom section.
For screw holes and power through the cabinet bottom your best bet is to pull measurements.
If you can get the model number you can certainly get the installation manual online.
Now that I have said all that Your MW is probably entirely different. I think the three I dealt with were all GE.
They come with 4 toggle bolts, 1 lag bolt (1/4 by 2" maybe) and the two 3 1/4" 1/4 -28 large head screws at the top.
Good luck
TFB (Bill)
edit http://products.geappliances.com/ApplProducts/images/t07/0000016/r16624v-1.pdf
look at page 6. I corrected the sizes above.
Edited 10/16/2006 6:20 pm by ToolFreakBlue
Edited 10/16/2006 6:21 pm by ToolFreakBlue
Or just throw the microwave in the back of your pickup and haul it to the hardware store.Do be careful to not buy screws that are TOO long. You can probably count on having about an inch of depth inside the unit for over-long screws, but if you go much beyond that you risk damaging it.
If Tyranny and Oppression come to this land, it will be in the guise of fighting a foreign enemy. --James Madison
Where's the fun in that...;)
good idea. TFB (Bill)
It has the two screw setup through the bottom of the cabinet.
I know what size toggle bolts to get and what size screws for the studs, I have done alot of these lately. Unfortunatley I can't remember the size for the two screws.
I'll see who makes the unit tommorrow and go from there.
Who's the manufacturer?
I bet if you called them with a Model # or Serial Number the parts department could tell you exactly what lenght, size, and thread count they were.
http://www.repairclinic.com carries parts for most manufacturers.
I dimly recall one I installed about three years ago.
The two bolts that went through the above-cab floor into the roof of the microhood had two special features:
A large flat head to deal with an oversized hole in the cab floor
A halfball feature at the end of the threaded portion, meant as a kind of "finder" for seeking the threaded hole in the unit's roof, done blindly. Think sex, and you can visualize.
Given this kind of bolt need, methinks you will need to get it from an OEM parts supplier, and not a hardware store. And while you are at it, you might as well have them ship you the drilling template, too.
Good luck.
because it now has become a PITA...
cutomer generated PITA's are billable at a substansilly higher rate..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
This whole house has been a PITA.
It's the one that a car went almost all the way through it at 85mph. I took blurry pics when I removed the load bearing wall and replaced it with LVL's and some columns.
I remember that..
somebody cutting costs with the ins money..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I think that they have gone overbudget, by a loooooooong way.
the insurance company is only paying to have the house put back together the way it was originally built. Not up to todays building codes. So it's not completley their fault.
None of the exterior walls had insulation in them, the insurance company is not going to pay for it either. So thats just one thing of many they have had to pay out of pocket.
that makes sense..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"the insurance company is only paying to have the house put back together the way it was originally built. Not up to todays building codes. So it's not completley their fault. "Whose insurance company.If it is the drivers. And the house can't be put back together without making the improvementes then I would think that they would be on the hook. Interesting thought. If it is the HO insurance, just a note to others. You can get a rider that will pay for any additional cost needed to meet code. And it is one of those things that cost only a few dollars.
I'm thinking in MN the law requires that the insurance rebuild to meet code.
If Tyranny and Oppression come to this land, it will be in the guise of fighting a foreign enemy. --James Madison
You're right Bill thats an interesting thought. I wonder who's insurance company is paying for this. I didn't give it much thought until now.
I'll ask the GC next I see him.
Do a search with Google using the model of the rangehood and something like "installation" or "manual". Usually manufacturers will include a parts list among the various pieces of paper they stick into the box and increasingly they are putting this on-line. If there is nothing for the particular model, just do a generic search on "range hood installation" and check out a few of the results.
Dont know the screw size, but I feel for you. I hate reinstalling used stuff.
I remember fighting with a used disposal only to find out it was frozen.
There was a little karma on that job though.
The HO's son was kind of a smart a$$/cocky and he was the one that replaced the disposal. When he did he forgot to pop the dw drain hole in the side of the disposal (who needs directions right?). The GC was going through checking the job and all of a sudden there's water everywhere. I get a call and tell him how to fix it. We both get a laugh cause these people were impossible the whole job.
1/4-20x2 w/ fender washers for inside the cab.....
some units take 5/16..
be careful.. length is critical.. too long damages the unit..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
If it's a GE they probably are 1/4-20....also dont bother with the templates that came with the micro, they're too confusing. Mount the bracket on the wall, using a combo of toggle bolts and at least catch 1 stud with 1/4" lags. Next measure the bolt holes on top of the micro from the back and from the sides. Transfer these measure ments to the bottom of the cabinets. If they frameless cabinets thius is pretty easy if they are framed it can be a little tricky but I've hung hundreds of microwaves this way and never had a problem. If the holes still dont line up you can ream out the holes a little bigger then use fender washers under the screws coming thru the upper cabinet to cover the larger holes. Also if they are framed cabinets there is usually a 1" space from the bottom of the cabinet's face frame to the floor of the cabinet. You should rip a strip of wood to fill in this space, and drill the holes thru that too. If they're framed cabinets the hole for the cord is no that important, I usually drill it right in front of the electrical outlet so it's not hanging all thru the cabinet.
Edited 10/18/2006 7:45 am ET by Craigabooey
I finally got through to the GC and homeowner today I think. I explained to them that a 10 yr old microwave is going to look like crap in a brand new kitchen. They agreed and are looking for a new one.
I usually throw the templates away, I use them to check my measurements after I have marked out the bottom of the cabinet and before I have drilled any holes.
Templates.
Takes longer to screw with the template than it does to mount the micro.
I get the measurements off 'em and toss._______________________________________________________________
this tagline space for rent