I just finished sistering LVL’s to existing floor joists in which I had to remove all the bridging. Span is 23 feet. Existing plaster ceiling below, and I am planning on 3/4 T&G fir ply for floor. Should I reinstall bridging or blocking? What about the Simpson metal bridging that is nailed? Thanks for any advice. -Ed
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story

From building boxes and fitting face frames to installing doors and drawers, these techniques could be used for lots of cabinet projects.
Highlights
Fine Homebuilding Magazine
- Home Group
- Antique Trader
- Arts & Crafts Homes
- Bank Note Reporter
- Cabin Life
- Cuisine at Home
- Fine Gardening
- Fine Woodworking
- Green Building Advisor
- Garden Gate
- Horticulture
- Keep Craft Alive
- Log Home Living
- Military Trader/Vehicles
- Numismatic News
- Numismaster
- Old Cars Weekly
- Old House Journal
- Period Homes
- Popular Woodworking
- Script
- ShopNotes
- Sports Collectors Digest
- Threads
- Timber Home Living
- Traditional Building
- Woodsmith
- World Coin News
- Writer's Digest
Replies
Personally, I'd go with blocking. It's stronger and easier to install, especially since you have a ceiling under this. Cut it carefully to fit nice and snug.
-- J.S.
I wouldn't put it in unless the floor is springy - Bridging or blocking might help that.
With a 23' span you're likely to have problems unless your floor system is about 16" deep.
According to a recent survey, men say the first thing they notice about a woman is their eyes.
And women say the first thing they notice about men is they're a bunch of liars.
I'm with Boss. Use plenty of adhesive when you're putting down the subfloor. Screw the bejeezuz out of it, less impact on the plaster ceiling. Crimoney, 23' span, what size are those LVL's?
EliphIno!
Billy, I had to go with 12" LVL's that are sistered on existing 3x12's. The house is a ranch nothing in the atic. I going to put in blocking while I have the floor open, sounds like it can't hurt. Thanks for the advice -Ed