1st visit (mag subscriber 20 + yrs.). My building locale has gone upscale in recent past. Lots of infills being done. Got a call to one of the “camps” that has been partially converted to year round living (actually rented to the local college students). I visited for a cedar siding request. Before I give a bid I’d like a best practices approach. Got lots of ideas but am a “new construction” guy. Gotta expand in these tough times. When I took a look I found roofing single siding. There seems to be other layers of sheathing and asphalt shingles samwhiched behind. This has padded out the profile such that the window trim is on extensions. Can’t go out too much more. It is a 1901 balloon/timber framed (4X4)hybrid. I can wait (have inside jobs for now) for the weather but the client wants it ready (“Lookin like that, I think I’m having trouble renting it to the right type of folks”.) soon. Suggestions? Thanks, Chad RS, Unltd
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Welcome to this hollow shell of what was once a vibrant forum.
I'm no sider by specialty but will offer these couple ideas.
If you strip it to what would be good to work with, you could take that opportunity to blow cellulose in the shell (if it's not already been insulated). Might give you a better nailing surface and potential problem areas would be exposed for repair.
I'm sure you know this but backprimed siding and sealing all cuts are what should be common practice.
How's the windows?
What's the style? Is the window and other trim any kind of what you want to keep?
Keep the siding up off the roof (dormer or sidewall junction) and inch or so. If it's going to be re-roofed in the not so distant future, leave even more room. Seal well those cut ends. Properly flash the corners and up where siding tucks up onto the primary roof. Us Vicor or similar to overflash the exposed step flashing.
And have a major league day.
If you're talking new wood
If you're talking new wood siding you're going to have to rip off the old first.
The best practice is:
replace the wood with Hardie Plank, say Cypress imprint.
hi, chris...where are you located
what does ....RS, United mean ?
Well, thank you all for your help. I'm on some automobile forums (got a '66 Ford Bronco) this set up is done quite differently and am surprised I found your help, am not sure I'll be posting so you can see my response...we'll C.
Name is Chad. RS, Unltd is a name I choose some 35 yrs. ago when @ the other end of the state (MA): meaning "residential services, unlimited" cuz I did/do all things landscaping as well (contract out some licensed trades, heavy equp, painters, rockers, etc).
So, no hardy plank, they want cedar shingles.
Wuz thinkin of 1) obdyke 'breather' over the asphalt (better than the thin blue plastic insulation siders use to even out/insulate under vinyl/other siding) , 2) strip down to the 2nd layer of siding, re work the window extensions (30lb paper under) n call it done, or 3) going all the way down to the original ship lap siding (3rd layer) to see if it would endure the #2 method preceding. That would be something tho cuz the windows would set in another 4 inches from present. I think over the years the 'camp' simply had another layer of plywood siding and asphalt shingles slapped over the last (at least twice). You can see that the windows were once just screens stapled over the opening before another layer of siding/asphalt was placed over that!
The building is well insulated on the inside (lets C, I can't remember all the comments/Qs...this forum does not display them when responding). Oh, the roofing is boards which over hang the curtain wall 2 feet, no probs w/the siding, there. It will need re-roofing on the addition (slope is so low it should not have been done w/3 tab).
And, another Q I remember: I'm in the Springfield/Greenfield SMSA.
Thanks, again n I'll duck from those "sucker punches" ;-}
cf
Wouldn't it be simpler to burn it down and build fresh?