I volunteered to help a friend install some recessed lights (4-1/4″ remodel type Halo brand) in his ceiling. My stud finder would not work to find the joist because, I thought, of the textured ceiling. So after marking the locations (8 of them) if figured to poke a small hole to allow me to probe for the joists. After much pushing on my drywall saw my friend says ” oh, I forgot to tell you, the ceiling is plaster”.
What is the best way to cut 8 holes 4-1/4″ diameter in a plaster ceiling. He thinks the house was built in the late 1940’s so it could be plaster/lath or it could be veneer plaster over that “sheetrock” type board w/ the holes for the keys to lock into.
Will a typical bi-metal hole saw cut either of these? I would rather do that than use a rotozip due to the mess. Do I need a carbide tipped hole saw? It is only 8 holes and I don’t really need the hole saw after that so if it wears out it is okay. I haven’t checked the price of carbide tipped yet but I know they are usually quite alot more.
Any suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks.
Replies
Try a fly cutter. Looks like a 3/16" +/- drill bit with a L-shaped wing coming off one side. The wing is adjustablke for different diameters. Lowes & HD usually sell them in the ceramic tile dept, usefull for cutting holes in hardiebacker and some tile. The wing is frequently carbide tipped, so it should last for your 8 holes.
Careful ... I think the instructions say to use it in a drill press. I don't. But please use a very low speed drill.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
I know of one person who uses a hole saw, but takes half of an old basket ball (cut around the equator) and puts the hole saw through the bottom of it before attaching to the drill. Allow the bit to spin freely, and the half of the ball catches a bunch of the debris. Hole saws or rotary tool are about the best on plaster. You might want to drill through the plaster, dump that out, and then do the lath. Or drill the plaster out, and then switch to a roto-zip.
I don't think the bits with the spike on the end will deal well with wood lath, if that is present. Probably fine on rock lath. Not sure about metal.
basketball ?
cool idea......
sprinting to the patent office ...................................
carpenter in transition
The basketball sounds like a good idea. However, in this case the floors are being sanded the next day so for once I can make a mess and not hear about it.
I just picked up a "remgrit" 4-3/8" hole saw kit that has carbide grit glued to a smooth holesaw body. The package claims it will cut through hard stuff (like my head). I figure between this and a regular bimetal type I should be covered.
Thanks for the help.
I've found that some grits can grind off anything glued to a saw blade or hole saw. In particular, the stuff in thin set killed my carbide tipped hole saw. Not sure about the stuff in plaster, whether it will too or not.
I finished cutting the holes last night with the "remgrit" hole saw. Worked like a charm. The only problem was the dust generated. Even though the mess didn't matter on the floor the mess on me was another thing. After the first hole, and instant cloud of dust, my buddy held the vacuum hose near the saw. This worked about 80%. My arm was covered w/ dust but at least we could still see the rest of the room. Next time I will use the basketball/cardboard box technique.
Thanks to all for the help.
From late 40s- could be metal lathe.
Regular bimetal holesaw will work. Go slow. Teeth can be resharpened.
If you need to be neat, cut an opening in one side of a cardboard box or plastic bin large enough to get your drill and arm in there. Cut a hole in the bottom to accept your vacuum hose. Prop or screw box to ceiling. Most of the dust will go into the vacuum.
I just did four of these in plaster and lath with a hole saw, works great, wish I had of thought of the ball idea. I use a plastic cup for the small holes ball would have been helpful.