Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Aug 25, 1999 07:23am | #1

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   The brads will show, though not very conspicuously. Construction adhesive tends to be a little thick ... i used polyurethane (Gorilla Glue) with a couple of brads around the periphery, where they'll be covered by moldings anyway. Certainly glue is strong enough to hold the panel on, it's just a question of clamping. I suppose contact cement might work well.

1. 
   Guest_ | Aug 25, 1999 03:21pm | #2

   *Have you completely removed the old finish. If not remember that any glue will only be as strong as the old finish and may react with it. Especially solvent based finishes like laquer. I have used decorative mouldings to hide fastners.

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   Guest_ | Aug 25, 1999 05:01pm | #3

   *Jim,

   A wax stick will take care of any small holes made by the brad nailer.

   Joseph FuscoView Image

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   Guest_ | Aug 25, 1999 07:07pm | #4

   *I always use contact cement and no fasteners, for this application.

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   kwiseman | Aug 30, 1999 04:05am | #5

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   If you apply a fresh coat of paint to the 75' Pinto, does it become a 99'.

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   Guest_ | Aug 30, 1999 04:31am | #6

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   I agree with Mike, contact cement is the best way to go. no clamping or nail holes to fill. the are some water based ones out there that are easy to work with and easy to clean, a bit pricy but well worth it, any woodworking supply or cabinet hardware supplier should carry it. also you may want to consider using 1/8 inch veneer so that the edges are smaller.

   good luck
   Jim

4. 
   Herrick_Kimball | Aug 31, 1999 07:12am | #7

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   Jim--

   Brad holes are very small and not conspicuous once puttied (as described on page 128 of the book). Use the brads sparingly. And if you can place them in darker areas of the grain (I'm thinking primarilky of oak) they tend to "disappear" better with the putty.

   Another thing I do to help obscure the brad holes is to wipe over them with a damp rag before puttying. The moisture swells some of the fibers around the perimeter of the countersunk fastener back into place. it's just a little, but enough that, once puttied, the outline of the hole is not so sharp, and therefore not so noticeable. Snipers camoflage themselves with "shaggy' ghillie suites that work on the same principle of blurring a clear outline. Make sure the water dries before puttying.

   I still use construction adhesive (liquid nails) because it works well for me, but I've heard from a lot of refacers, like Mike, have had great success with contact cement only. If I sanded the old cabinet sides to bare wood, I'd be more inclined to use the contact adhesive. But I don't go to that trouble and the liquid nails with a few brads is fast and sure.

   In the book, I do use contact cement to apply phenolic backed wood veneer on cabinet sides (this material is an option to plywood).

   kwiseman-- I hear you man. I used to feel the same way about cabinet refacing. it didn't fit in with the top quality reputation I had worked to develop for the first 15 years of my remodeling career. But it turned out that my preconceived notions were based on a misunderstanding of what refacing could be. My mind was changed completely when I saw a superbly crafted kitchen refacing job, and I immediately saw I was missing out on an opportunity.

   Cabinet refacing is, like any other craft in the building trades, what you make of it. Some people do fast-buck cookie cutter refacing. But others do what I like to call "High End" cabinet refacing-- the finished project will look as good and last as long as any new cabinets would. My book discusses the high end approach.

   I believe cabinet refacing is a practical option that every professional remodeler can (and should) be offering his customers. There is good money to be made and the demand for some real craftsmanship in this area is there!

   Best regards

   Herrick Kimball

5. 
   Jim_C._Lewis | Aug 31, 1999 07:12am | #8

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   I need help with how to apply/fix 1/4" veneer plywood to the sides of old kitchen cabinets. Herrick Kimball's book says to use construction adhesive and brads...won't the brad holes show? where to you put the brads so they don't show? Help!