Sorry I havent been around in a while, Ive been out straight with trauma clients.
I got a job that the client would like me to refinish a mantel and trimwork in a room that my grandfather made probably 30 years ago. I dont want to mess it up.
I skeptical about possible silicates or other surface protection that may have been used.
What can I use to pre-clean the woodwork without damaging whats there?
zen
Framing the floor inside a crawlspace foundation keeps a gable-end addition close to grade.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial NowGet instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
Replies
What finish did your grandpop put on his other pieces?
When I approach a piece with unknown history I test for shellac, then start with soap and progress with stronger solvents until it's clean.
PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
I dont have a clue what it is, it not shellac, its soaked in, satin except for the mantel shelf. It could be tongue, linseed, or wood oil, its dry and smooth like rubbed. It has a coat of oil stain underneath, you can tell by the grain.
Basically, a painter came in and scuffed and added another coat of stain and poly on the door frame that goes into the rest of the house.
The client wants me to try to match the warmer color that that door frame became. They have no idea what he used for stain color, but I can deal with that, I just didnt want the mantel to fish eye or something because a cleaning lady goes there and she could have put anything on it.
I also get to try to match a brand new poplar curtain rod to the birch that has 30 year old stain and then new stain on top. In addition, all the window hardware was on before that initial coat of stain so there are big triangles of raw wood. Got to love the geniuses.
I know it wasnt my blood, he would'nt paint anything. lol
zen
30 yrs ago it might easily have been an oil finish. I did more than a few then. That's why I mentioned solvents. Start with the mildest and stop when it's clean. That mantle could be nothing but paste wax over what was used on everything. BTW, naptha's good but won't always clean a gunky finish. Sphere's right on about clean rags.
Once it's clean you can be mostly worry-free about household "cleaners". Using fish eye eliminator is insurance. Presume you know that you won't have much potential there unless you're adding a hard finish anyhow. If you can match with an oil finish, don't even think about a hard finish.
Guess you know the dangers of using any sand paper, touch that stain and you're liable to have a larger problem. I like Scotchbrite pads, come in various roughnesses.
Without seeing it, I don't a clue about what the stain was, not that I'm really expert anyhow. But some colors just won't happen without exactly the right type of stain or dye. You're fortunate that the painter already did the best test for you, applied a finish over what was there. As it worked, you have a lot less to worry about.
Matching old finish color is about as difficult as it gets. I've got a furniture client waiting for me. Their pieces are museum quality, considerably older than what you're dealing with, but not necessarily more difficult. All hard finish. The first rule is to not screw up anything you don't know how to fix. Both the finish and the wood have changed color significantly over the yrs, both your job and mine. Even if you applied the exact same finish, it wouldn't match.
My people sent their designers to England to furnish the (large, 7k sq ft) house 15 yrs ago. Took several yrs for the furniture to acclimate and (mostly) quit moving around. During that time I also tried to get the house set up so it wasn't so variable with rh. Been a few yrs since I've been called back so I guess I was successful. These are race horse breeders who find my glue pot hilarious.
Good luck- be careful.PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
What Tom said is a good start. Then I go with Naptha and a few old Tshirts. It isn't the solvent, it's all in the rags...change often.
If you are using a waterbased coating for the refin, be cautious of some of the stearated sandpaper like 3M Tri-mite no load ( kinda grey in color) The steration is a soap like additive to prevent clogging..and hinders the adhesion of some water based finishes.
Garnet paper ( golden or reddish, by Norton) is a good choice for the first rub and follow with the Naptha and rags..
Shellac will be a good choice to isolate any contaminates, followed by the finish of choice.
Zinnser's Seal-cote is almost waterwhite Vs. Orange 3LB cut shellac which will appear amber...BTW both of those require Alcohol for thinning and clean up ( not drinking kind..LOL).
I'd do all that and spray a few coats of Deft lacquer..that is some good and user friendly stuff.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
There is no cure for stupid. R. White.