we are removing a half wall in our new house which will expose unfinished wood floor (1955 original). The rest of the floors in our house have just been sanded and refinished. is it possible to sand/finish this patch to match…?
A floor finisher I consulted said we had to redo all of the floors… the patch is about 2% of all the floors but it is in a very noticeable area. If I can be satisfied with a less than perfect blend is it possible to get it close?
thanks,
michele
Replies
You probably need a furniture refinisher person to do this job. I don't think the average floor person would do partial repairs. It can be finished closely to the original, but will probably be visible at best.
Also check to see if it is cut in floor. ( that is, the floor laid after the walls were erected ) if so, you have more problems
regards
mark
http://www.quittintime.com
If I can be satisfied with a less than perfect blend is it possible to get it close?
Sure, as long as you don't find what Mark warned about. Even then it can be done, but substantially more work. Last time I did a partial finish it was to match some very old varnish on the rest of the floor. What I applied looked like something that came out of a diaper. Color was a very good match and with a little Scotchbrite buffing the sheen matched.
Takes somebody better than I am to get it perfect, but my customer was very happy. And I doubt any of their guests noticed. Directly in front of the front door of a 7k ft house (18th c.).
PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
Each time a floor is refinish a layer of material is removed. Therefore the flooring under the wall will be higher than the adjacent flooring. It will also most likely be a dif. color since it was never sealed. Lots of sanding - best done with a belt sander and then an orbital sander. You can try to scrape it but the will take quite some time and effort but will limit the width of the work area.
This is most definitely a TLC job but it can be done. The refinishing will be an araea of 18" wide x whatever the length. End the width of the refinishing at a board edge on each side and at the end if the lengths at each end. This will mean that the end finishing will be staggered.
F.
what those guys said.... plus, use the same polyurethane the recent refinisher used, even if you have to purchase a gallon from him when weaving repairs, have best result using "clear" grade flooring, better matches quality of flooring used in 50's assuming it's strip oak, find out if you have red or white before ordering stock will be able to get some blind nailed fasteners in there but will have to use face nails at ends use pneumatic finish nailer, about 2" in from end of stock this cleanly counter-sinks the pins, avoids hammer dents can also run bead of PL400 subfloor adhesive under ends, especially where weave brings strips into old section of floor glue bond will stabilize floor and keep it quiet wood won't match, experiment w poly on scraps, can apply diluted stain to modify new stock after sanding if stain used, no poly coat over it for at least 24hrs