I’m fixing up this old ( 1920’s?)brick bungalow here in Tucson. The bathroom is small, about 6’x12′ and I’m not making it bigger. It will eventually be a rental for college students. I have the bathtub, sink, toilet and linoleum torn out. I have the new tub, sink, toilet and I bought some nice mexican floor tile to put down. Put greenboard (or whatever you call it) around the tub.The width of the room is about an inch more than the length of the tub so I’m putting up some wood to build out the wall about 1″. I want to put the waterproof sheathing around the walls ( I can’t remember what it’s called. It comes in sheets, you fit it together, caulk or silicone the seams) to surround the tub and shower area. The plumbing itself is still in the walls and floor where it was originally and will not need to be altered much to hook everything up. The floor is just bare boards at this point. I’ll have to put cement board down to tile it. What I want to know is, What order do I do these things in? Any tips on how to make this go smooth and easy (haha) would also be appreciated.
Thanx in advance
Replies
How old are these college students you are renting to, Grad students, or freshman right out of Highschool?
If they are younger, you may be making a mistake putting in expensive tile, speaking as a 25 y/o college student, and repairing quite a few college rentals around my town, I'd beware of going to nice. Girls are generally easier on a place then guys though.
I'm not sure if I'm reading this right, but, if you have green-board around the shower and you are putting tile around the shower, you are much better off using cement board there as well.
Or is the water proof sheathing, the finished tub surround?
Someone with more authority will be along here shortly, but I would
check to see what the subfloor condition is, how thick is it, and what is the size of the joists under it, to ensure your floor can handle the tile and be stiff enough as to not crack. Generally speaking you need 1 1/4 in. of subflooring
set the tub
tile the shower area first and then the floor.
then install the toilet/vanity etc.
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark, Professionals built the Titanic.
Edited 8/1/2003 10:57:56 AM ET by CAG
Its good to use felt paper behind the duroc, maze nails to attach it. Take into account your toliet flange when you change your floor thickness. Also your 1920 flange might be 14" from the wall and the new toliet will rough at l2. I'd get a toliet with three bolts tank to bowl or plan on some fill for the gap incase the students use it for an armchair.
Good advice on the toilet height. I work with a guy how owns a rental and he just discovered the floor below the toilet is rotting. It appears to be because the subfloor/backer board/tile were too much height to get a good wax seal.
You can buy extended wax rings for just this purpose.
First thing on my list would be to replace the greenboard around the tub with cement board, but then with college students renting it, maybe you plan on replacing it every three years anyway.
Excellence is its own reward!
How is your plumbing?? this is a great time to install All new Plumbing, especially if you had any of that CAP water in your pipes. If you don't go with all new, then go with New, on any fixture/valve that's in the wall, possible your tub/shower valve, I would also reccomend an independent shut-off for the tub/shower. I would take a close look at the lumber, relace as needed. May as well take a gander at the wiring, while you are looking at the balance in your check book. Best of luck Jim Jensen, Prescott AZ