Remodeling for Energy Efficiency ques
p.57 Shows 2 layers of 2in rigid polyiso foam on the walls, then a bunch of framing and furring with one layer of polyiso. What is the net effect of R26 insulation with a bunch of thermal bridging? Also, how do you attach 3/4 in. furring strips through 4″ of insulation, existing sheating, and into the framing? Are the furring strips pressure treated plywood?
Replies
If you explain this more clearly, you're more likely to get responses.
Solar & Super-Insulated Healthy Homes
Robert,
I think he is talking about the current FHB (Betsy Pettit Article)
I question the window head detail on the last page.
It looks to me like any water that gets beyond the siding is funneled behind the window trim. John B
Sorry. In the last issue (#194), the author shows a detail that I don't fully understand on two levels: First, if you use r-26 insulation, then bridge across it in a few places with framing, what is the net effect of the insulation? In a previous FHB (october/november '97), the author states "if you install R-38 batts in an attic, but leave 0.5% of the surface area uncovered, you end up with R32 (16% reduction in R-value)." Second, if the furring strips for the wood siding are 4.75 inches away from the studs, how well does that work and how are they attached?
Thanks
Edited 3/19/2008 11:06 pm ET by verdibuilder
You're still not explaining this clearly.
And you're assuming that everyone here reads FHB.
Now that Cargin posted the article, I still can't see that you're describing. There is no thermal bridging in this wall section.
I suspect that the furring is held on with long screws, which would create some thermal bridging.
But bridging through insulation layers with wood framing reduces the overall assembly R-value - the more insulation, the higher the percentage of loss.
Riversong HouseWright
Design * * Build * * Renovate * * ConsultSolar & Super-Insulated Healthy Homes
Edited 3/20/2008 12:08 am ET by Riversong
Robert
Here is the article.
Sorry about the size.
Rich
verdibuilder
I guess what bothered me about the article was the cost. The Victorian was $125/SF. My house ( a Victorian circa 1890-1900) is 2,800 SF. That's $350,000 and that doesn't count the cost of purchase.
My property tax assement just went up from $105K to $138K. I seriously doubt I could get very close to 100K for it in today's declining market.
I blew the walls 2x6 with cellulose and the attic to R-26 ( we have a floored attic with 2x8 joists) over a 3 year period. And we installed a new HE furnace/AC unit about 6 years ago.
We have about 35 windows and at replacement costs of $250-$350 each (window inserts, materials only) that's a huge investment for a questionable return. We are replacing windows one at a time when we remodel a room.
I guess what I am saying is that in our market spending 350K to 450K on an old house for energy efficiency is not logical. Just go build a new one that is designed for the way todays families live.
I understand historic districts and places out east don't have any extra land available.
I posted a pic of the house.
Rich
Every house has to be adapted to the cost effective way of improving things. The biggest advantage insulation has is it instantly starts paying for its self and no running costs.
Great house by the way! Only worth $100k? That would be dirt cheap here in NJ.
What type of windows are you using? Price seems high for materials only.
USAnigel
Windows have been Jeld-Wen vinyl double hung for areas that I don't care too much about.
My main floor windows ar 28" x 75" . That one was about $275.
I just did on that was on out back stairway. 18" x 45" $175
Pella wood replacements that I would use in the bedrooms or living room would be $300 and up. Have not done any of these yet.
The stairway window took 3 cans of great stuff (regular) to seal the gaps around the perimeter. I screw the existing jamb, drill every 4" and fill with foam.
Yet I like my house. So a couple of interior pics. Our front stairway and our living room ceiling.
Rich
That is a nice house!! Whats the location?
I guess your foaming where the weights were from the old windows.
US Anigel
LeMars, Iowa
We bought the house in 1988. It was a dump and had been on the market for 2 years. It was all we could afford at the time.
Some of my windows have weights and some never did.
Some have a locking mechanism on the side of the sash to hold the window up.
The little one that took 3 cans to fill had no weights.
Rich