Anything can be done!
but there are always “co$equence$”
You are right in thinking that this would need to be broken up into shorter spans, but the exact location of those support columns will depend on what load bears on things from above and where other opennings and structural elements can be positioned below. This wall now spreads loads out over a long dimension, but the loads will be transferred to point load positions at these columns. Those need to transfer that load all the way to foundation, and that foundation needs to be able to handle it.
Whether you use steel Ibeam or engineered wood beamsis an open question, depending on cost, skills available, and spand required. In general, a steel I-beam can handle the same load in a smaller elevation dimension than wood or can handle a longer span for the same depth. The steel will be a lower cost, but the insertion and attachmants can cost you more in labor. another possibilty isa flitch beam, sandwiching steel and lvl lumber, giving you the advantages of both to a limited degree.
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Replies
In short..yes...it can be done.
In honesty....call an engineer to spec out what you`ll be doing.
I`m certain you`ll be getting plenty of advice from this crew on what exactly to do....but my advice is to call in the specialist.
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Yep, that's what I meant to say - call an engineer on this one.
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When I first read his post, I immediately began to envision the scenario he has in mind. As soon as I had the "fix" for his problem...I began to envision another scenario. Once that was "fixed", yet another scenario came about.
Figgered I could continue like that all night and never really know if I was envisioning anything close to what he has in mind.....or.....suggest doing the right thing.
ATTENTION FELLOW BREAKTIME MEMBERS:<!----><!---->
If you`d like to discuss topics other than home building, come on down to the Woodshed Tavern. Great bunch of guys and gals letting off a little steam about everything and anything. Its not a special club, but.....as of Monday, March 14, the Tavern folder will go behind an access wall. Only those who request access to this folder by contacting [email protected] will be able to view and participate in discussions there.
You know that sounds like a DIY question.
Why are you removing the second floor for 25' ?
Looking for a wall of windows or something? I am curious.
homer <!---->
I have no clue what your reply means, not to be a smart-####.
But if a customer wants a 25 foot bearer wall removed, I'm sure she has her reasons and I don't think its our business why, she rich so money is not a probem.
I thought I could get some good sound advise and idea's at this forum, and I did from a couple but prople and that I thank you for, but a couple replies where nothing more than smart-#### replies.
Edited 4/1/2005 9:52 pm ET by Bob
I had a 24 foot beam put in place,8 by 10 inches. The steel guys brought it in two pieces and welded it together right in the living room. They lifted it in place with a chain hoist through a hole in the upstairs floor. I was remodeling the bathroom upstairs so the hole was no big deal. The uprights were 4 by 6 which they welded to the main I beam. The uprights rested on a heavy I beam in the basement, made accessible by holes in the living room floor. They were there 3 hours and it costs 1200.00 7 years ago. It was a pretty easy job to do.
Woodman
Thanks,
I thought it could be done, but a little more costly these days and caution taken during installation and construction.
You And I know anything is possible these days if if have the knowledge and money.
The bearing beam in the basement is right under the 25 foot wall to be removed.
Bob
Who's being a smartass?
Just trying to understand the "why" behind removing 25' of second floor exterior wall. Every project has a reason for its existence.
Thats why I asked if you were putting in a wall of windows. I am certainly not questioning you personally.
Now as I reread the lightbulb goes off and I see you are doing an interior wall.. So my post would come off smartassey. Sorry bout that.
Edited 4/2/2005 5:50 pm ET by homer
Where did he say it was an exterior wall? He said load bearing wall.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Homer
The wall i'm talking about is not an exterior wall, its an interior bearing wall. It divides the kitchen and hallway from the living room and dining room. The woman wants it gone to have the entire second floor open for looks and sunlight. Its her money and for her reasons why its not for me to say.
I think you misunderstood me and I mis understood you, so I'm sooy for that.
Bob
Sometimes folks ask a Q and give out almost no pertinent information, even after trying to milk it out of them. other times, we can get a three page essay full of nonpertinent details. It can be hard to know what and when for you - but in general, the more info presented, the better, because as I have often seen in this forum, someone will have a brainstorm thinking outside the box and present a great way of solving a problem. It does help to know the entire setting, not only to solve the specific problem, but to be able to warn of other potential liabilities. My impression waas that this is why Homer asked for more info, just to get the whole picture clear.glad you two have kissed and made up now.
;)
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Sounds like it'll be a headache($$) getting the beam(s) in there. But like everyone else said, with something this drastic your best bet is the safe one.
Bob,
You're talking about removing 25" of bearing wall on a second floor and replacing it with a beam that is supported at specific intervals. Yes, it can be done. But, that support needs to bear all the way down to the foundation somehow.
Call an engineer. It's the only way to be sure.
Robert,
Thank you,
I had planned on that and the customer really doesn't care how many columns replace the wall supporting the new beam.
In fact i suggested archways between each column.
The second floor bearing beam and metal columns in the basement are directly under the 25 foot wall to be removed on the second floor. Will that make a differance.
Thanks Bob
The fact that it's stacked over another load bearing wall is a good sign. At the heart of the issue then is that you'll be changing from bearing the load along the entire length of the wall to bearing it at points along the way. It becomes an issue of Pounds per SQ FT then.
A good engineer should be able to set you up right in about half a day. NO one here can really give you a definitive answer ( Even if they were an engineer) simply because they can't see the whole picture without being there.
Bob,
As everyone else has said it can be done. I removed a 22' first floor wall and the Engineer specked out a rectangular shaped piece of steel that 20" in width and 8" in height. Sounds crazy but that's what we put in. You can do it in two pieces but where the two pieces join you would have to transfer the load all the the way down to the piece of steel in the basement but that's putting a point load on the piece of steel, so you would probably need a footing and column under that.
Therefore if you do that you would have to open up the center of the wall downstairs with columns. If you do it in one piece you just have to do all this on the outside walls.
The bottom line here Bob is that the customer can ask anything they want but some things can be done and some things can't be done. Your case it can be done with several options. Everyone will give you different scenarios or the same but you have know that you have to get an Engineer no matter what anyone says for this project.
We do it a lot. Number one have the whole set up designed by a professional, do not take on that kind of liability. Remember to have extra hands on site when you lift it into place. We do it a lot on 1st and 2nd floors for renovations. Usually however, the beam is placed up in construction to present a flat ceiling.