Removing the tile from the cement board was faily easy. The quickset is a challange. Is it easier to just remove the cement board?
It is screwed to the subfloor. If I leave the cement board down, how smooth does it have to be?
What is the best way to remove the quickset from the board?
or What is the easiest way to remove the cement board?..
I have a kitchen, 20 ft hall and a laundry room
Framing the floor inside a crawlspace foundation keeps a gable-end addition close to grade.
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Replies
If the cement board was installed correctly it was thinsetted as well as screwed to the subfloor. Smoothness is not really an issue; the integrity of the board is. If this was a fiber type board like Wonderboard, removing the tile probably destroyed the board and it will need to be removed. If it is a solid type board like Hardibacker, it can probably be repaired, by floating low spots with some self leveling underlayment. Removal of any board will be a mess. If you can handle a little extra thickness you could remove the board, but not spend a lot of time cleaning up the floor. Then install lath and float the whole thing.
He said he did not use thinset under the Hardibacker only drywall screws from a gun you use standing up.
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John
Since he didn't thinset the cement board down (and might not have screwed the underlayment either...........)
and if it was "drywall" screws rather than the required cement board fasteners, best take it up and start from scratch.
The Hardibacker should break out fairly cleanly, leaving the screws. They should break off at the subfloor or you can remove them with vise grips. I doubt that you'll be able to use an unscrew gun.
Thanks for the information. That was what I was hoping to hear. I think you are right, just take a hammer and break them off at the sub-floor. The thinset has plugged up the slot for trying to remove them. Now for the dust, noise and scrap. You are right about the gloves and googles. The tile will break and leave a razor sharp edge and will knick you hand when removing the tile.