I am replacing a fiberglass shower receptor with another. Size is 32×32 with waste at center. How do I disconnect waste pipe ( 2in.dia. PVC) from the top of the receptor and reconnect the new one. I will be using a Kohler brass shower drain K 9132 in the new receptor.
Phil
Replies
base hould just lift off....
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
I can't imagine it lifting off. There is a definite connection, corrosion if nothing else.
can you post a picture...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Sorry, I can't. Don't have the hardware. Any further suggestions?
it may be a screw in insert and itakes a spanner wrench to unscrew it...
needle nose and cheater bar works sometimes too..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Usually....
....you pop the screen. There will be a ring that screwed down into the opening. This ring compressed a rubber ring that was pushed down around the drain pipe and so holding everything tight.
The above referenced spanner wrench is used to tighten/loosen the ring, but you should be able to get it turning as IMERC describes, or with a screwdriver and a hammer.
Anyways, unscrew the ring and pull the rubber ring out and you're done.
Unless the shower you working on has a different mechanism......
Rich Beckman
Another day, another tool.
Rich, thanks.
Looking into the top of the drain, I can't determine if there is a way to turn the drain. It appears to be quite filled with corrosion within the drain body, and deposits on the PVC pipe. Is there a way to drill out the pipe down to bottom of drain body to free the attachment?
Alternatively, I was thinking of cutting a circle aroung the drain to free the receptor from the drain, then dealing with detaching the drain. Any comments?
That was the route I would go!
"I can't determine if there is a way to turn the drain. It appears to be quite filled with corrosion within the drain body, and deposits on the PVC pipe"Start with the inside wall of the drainpipe. Follow it up to it's top and work out. You may need to scrape or wire brush around a bit to help determine what is what....."Alternatively, I was thinking of cutting a circle aroung the drain to free the receptor from the drain, then dealing with detaching the drain. Any comments?"Well, DanH likes the idea!It does sound like a workable alternative.Rich BeckmanAnother day, another tool.
Thanks to all.
I'm going to try removing the gasket, and or cutting a circle around the drain. It's going to be a whatever works exercise.
Let's see if this works out --This is a cross/section through the drain. Between the opening in the floor of the shower and the drain pipe in the center is a space that is probably around 3/8-1/2 inch. Into this space is jammed a rubber gasket. The opening in the shower floor is tapered slightly so that the gasket gets tighter as it's pressed down.The gasket may be simply secured by friction, or there may be a metal plate & screws holding it in, or there may be a threaded collar holding it in.
Dan, thanks for the sketch. I have a similar one packed with the new Kohler drain body. I'm going to try to remove the gasket first. If not, next comes the jig saw to cut a circle around the drain.
I'll post the results for future use.
Note that if either the pan or installer was of a certain age you could have oakum and lead instead of the rubber gasket. Pick at the area where the gasket should be and see what kind of material you dig up.
Yup, you're correct. It was lead. I actually did what Steve suggested today before I even read his message, and cut around the drain body to free the base. I drilled a series of holes, connected them with a Roto drill set at the thickness depth so as not to cut the sub floor, and out came the base. Now I have to open up the sub floor between joists, cut the waste pipe to remove the old drain, and reinstall some new 2in. waste to proper highth, along with new subfloor on new supports sistered to the existing joists, and inbetween.
It worked like a charm, but I didn't know it would when I started. All is well. Thanks to all who provided suggestions.
It should be possible to cut the remainder of the old base loose from the pipe without damaging the pipe or needing to open up the floor.
Hey Dan,
Was looking over my forum, and noticed that I hadn't replied to your message. The work is complete now. I had to remove the PVC portion of the drain, since the drain was leaded into a piece of galvanized pipe below the drain. We replaced the P trap, and the new base had a gasket that was forced into place around the new PVC(Kohler). Everything worked fine after alot of study. All the comments coming back were very helpful.
Many thanks.
Another question -- I'm looking for offset hinges for Bifold doors. Sources are scarce. Any suggestions? Lee Veritas hardware was suggested, and looking into that.
Phil
What do you mean by offset hinge?
One leaf is longer than the other, positioned recessed into the door frame, and allows the door panel to swing free of the casing when opening. Usually, the door can rotate up to 180 deg.
OK, I know what those are, but not as pertaining to a bifold door....what exactly are you trying to do?
I have a four leaf bifold that I want to hinge so that two leafs on each side fold back on themselves to save space. To do that, I need to hinge the leaf next to the frame such that it rotates proud of the frame trim and against the adjacent wall. That's where the offset hinge comes in.
Is this what you are looking for.http://www.johnsonhardware.com/1601.htmBTW, that is Lee Valley, http://www.leevalley.com
Bill,
Could very well be the ticket. I'll study it and get back to you.
Thanks.
Phil
Bill,
The Johnson Hardware Co. has what I was looking for. I've located a dealer nearby with a model setup that I will look at.
Many thanks. I've been looking for a long time.
Phil
You may want to use a circular saw to cut out the bottom of the existing pan (with the depth set appropriately) so that you don't have to cut through the subfloor excessively.
And oh yeah, wear safety glasses.
The one installed in our downstairs bath just had a rubber ring that you drove down between pipe and drain fitting until it was flush.
Worst case, sacrifice the existing pan by drilling a circle around the drain, then figure things out once the pan is gone.
Many receptors simply use a silicone donut that is pushed down over the drain stub after the stub is brought up into a metal ferule. Drill holes for two lags and try to pull the donut up. Or just drill the donut all around until it's almost gone and try to grab what remains.
You could drill 4 holes into the donut that are safely away from the drain if you're reusing the drain and saw cut away from the drain through the metal ferrule which should loosen the donut grip on the PVC.
Jeff,
I've removed the receptor already. It was leaded in, and I had to cut a circle around the drain to get the floor piece out. The new one has the donut application (Kohler). Removal was a bear!! They don't build them like that any more.
Thanks for the suggestions though.
Phil