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Removing baseboard

JohnT8 | Posted in Construction Techniques on October 22, 2004 07:33am

Had a devil of a time removing the trim from a DR.  These people must have owned a hardware store or something.  As an example, I’ve attached a picture of a piece of baseboard.  The piece  was just under a foot wide.

In the blurry pic it is hard to see them all, but there are 13 nails in it.  Gee, suppose that’s enough to hold it?  Maybe they should have used some adhesive on it too.  😉

Baseboard pieces varied from a few inches to 16′ long.  The long pieces didn’t have quite so many nails per foot as the small pieces.

This piece was annoying because it took me 10 minutes to work it off… and right as I was clearing it from the wall I managed to crack it.  <sigh>  Fortunately it is more visible from the backside.  I think a little yellow glue will make it just like new from the front.

jt8
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  1. User avater
    JeffBuck | Oct 22, 2004 08:23am | #1

    at least they labeled it!

     

    that's a joke ...

     

    won't help much with all thr nails ... but I have a japanese prybar ...

    nice wide flat bar on one end ... sharp little cats paw on the other ....

    the flat bar is nice and flat/sharp too ... helps get things started ....

     

    one trick ... no matter what U are prying with ... I always keep a 6" drywall knife in the tool belt ... cut the paint/caulk line with a utility knife ... the drive the dw knife in first ... wiggle ... and drive the flat bar between the dw knife and the wall.

    The dw knife helps keep the wall from getting damaged.

     

    all this, of course ... won't help splitting the old wood trim.

    Looks like ya did good.

     

    have fun.

    remember to have a set of nippers and pull the nails from the back ....

    Jeff

    1. JohnT8 | Oct 22, 2004 05:52pm | #3

      Attached is one of my standard trim-removing tools.  I've had it since before the mists of time.  We've always just called it a 'bee tool', but I've seen other versions of it used by other professions.

      Assuming there isn't a paint line to cut, I use the bee tool as the first tool in.  Once in and worked around, it becomes a pry surface much like how you described using a dw knife.

      I'll give the dw knife a try on the next one.  jt8

      1. Tyr | Oct 22, 2004 09:27pm | #4

        Had a tool similar to that.  Didn't have any temper.  Wedged my gate post with it. I use small Wonderbars.  For the base removal (those nails don't look like they all went to the bottom plate) try this:  A regular hacksaw blade chucked up in a recip saw.  Get a little opening, keep the blade against the wall, the saw can easily be 45 degrees away from the wall due to the flex in the blade, cut those nails off flush with the wall surface (drywall, plaster over lath, paneling--whatever).  Pull nails through the base from the unfinished side (assuming they aren't box nails).  Use a pair of dikes--the bigger the better--best are SnapOn they have an angle for easy prying.  Charge accordingly.   Tyr

    2. HeavyDuty | Oct 22, 2004 10:46pm | #5

      That's it Jeff, I am not going to let you borrow my DW knife.

      Not the ones I use for taping anyway.

      1. User avater
        JeffBuck | Oct 24, 2004 08:43am | #7

        funny thing ..

        last time we had some drywally work to be done at home ...

        the wife couldn't figure out why she was having so much trouble using the 6" knife she grabbed outta my belt!

        "no ... not "that" drywall knife ... the "real" drywall knife...."

         it's a wonder we're still married .....

        Jeff

  2. BobKovacs | Oct 22, 2004 02:01pm | #2

    Please don't over-exaggerate- I only counted 12 nails, not the 13 you reported. 

    Geez- some people blow things so far out of proportion.....lol.

    J/K- what a mess........lol

    Bob

    1. JohnT8 | Oct 25, 2004 08:50pm | #8

      Top crack was in it when I found it (maybe they shouldn't use quite so large a nail).  The more pronounced split was my fault.  I just got lucky it didn't go through to the front.  Gonna shoot it full of yeller glue and hope it holds.  Had to use the Sawzall on some of those nails. 

      9 1/8". I like white/red oak better, however this stuff is some kind of pine.  Going to strip and restain and reuse.  It isn't real fancy, and with all the labor involved it won't be saving $$$...  But I kinda like reusing old stuff.  The house it came from had been added on to over the years.  Portions had regular nails, parts had cut nails.  A couple rooms had been 'modernized' in the 1970's.  Wheew, we left that trim behind!

      And yeah, I know you were joking, but I'm only right about 2-3 times a year.. so I'm required to be a PITA and point out that there are a baker's dozen of fasteners, not a standard dozen.   ;)

      Still looking for a new project house.  Either a salvage or a renovation (although renovation pays better).

      jt8

  3. DANL | Oct 22, 2004 11:40pm | #6

    Jeff had a good idea with drywall knife, or large putty knife between flatbar and wall. I've also found that working with two flat bars really helps--open the space with one and slide the other along as far as you can, pry gently with it and move the first one up in front of second and so on. Of course, cutting the nails off is an option and the suggestion to use a flexible hacksaw blade sounded good. Still, lots of nails to cut! If two will do the job, by all means, use 12! My wife's ex lived that philosophy--only added to it that if an eight penny works, then use at least a 12 or maybe a 16--and Ardox, of course. Nailed and used construction adhesive on quarter-round window trim--but didn't bother to cope or miter.

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