I have several 2″ steel posts embedded in a concrete slab and need to remove them. I tried cutting one with a Sawzall/hack saw blade but cannot get it flush. I then tried an abrasive cutoff wheel in a 1/2″ drill but wore out the disk before I was half way through. I am willing to do some concrete patching if the removal damages the pad. Any suggestions?
thanx, henry
Replies
Buy some more blads for the drill. The best is to find a friend who has a if to 4" angle grinder brow it. If you don't have a friend who has one buy one.
Cut close with sawzall, then finish flushing it with angle grinder.
SamT
a cutting torch that you can rent will take each one out in about a minute. Should get down to the level of the floor but won't leave a cut that looks as spiffy as one done with a blade. If being flush with the floor is your goal, the torch will do it.
If you decide to use the torch, make sure the guy you rent it from shows you how to get it cutting--it ain't as easy as it looks.
I think you'd be better with an angle grinder and a few thin metal-cutting blades. Don't try to cut straight across the diameter; run around the circumference until you just get through the wall then move on. It damages the disc less than having it stuck deep into a cut that's already open.
If you have to rent a grinder, rent a big one. But be careful--they can kick back.
Dinosaur
'Y-a-tu de la justice dans ce maudit monde?
Put a metal cutting blade in the sawzall and bend it a little so it will lay flat on the concrete, kinda like a pancake spatula. Then smooth it with the abrasive wheel.
Do it right, or do it twice.
You can buy a decent 4 1/2 grinder for less than $100 and they'll accept a lot of different attachments in addition to the metal grinding wheel. (random orbit sander heads, diamond cutting wheels, wire brush cones, etc.) They're a good tool to have around.
For cutting off the pipes flush, the grinder would be my 1st choice, with the oxy/acet second.
If the pipes are galvanized, avoid the fumes created by the heat, however....very toxic.
If you know someone with an older Milwaukie Sawzall they may have a flush cutting attachment for it, which would do the job, too.
But whatever you end up doing, you may need to use a grinder to get the cuts smooth and flush.
Whats the flush cut attchment for the sawzall? I'm guessing it's not made anymore from your description?
as to the pipes...
C-4...
then patch the concrete..
hey, at least it'd be entertaining,,,Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark, Professionals built the Titanic.
Unfortunately, the offset attachment doesn't work with the "click on" blade system and I guess it's been discontinued.
Too bad, cause it's a handy thing....
For the very occasional DIY user, HF has a really cheap $13 (sale events) 4-1/2 grinder (or $24 7-1/2") that works without overheating for 20 minutes or so, which would be fine in this case. Actually bought a few for neighbors who were always asking to borrow my 9" or wanting a freebie. BTW, the 4-1/2 is really good for quickie sharpening of lawnmower blades without removing from mower, but remove and balance if you start to feel excessive vibration.
A good 9" angle grinder will do a 2" pipe in less than 1 minute, flush and all. I'd not do a galvanized pipe with torch, as the Zn fumes always give me a bad headache.
Goggles a must if nobody said before, and if you already wear glasses, wear an old pair, there will always be a particle to chip/scratch your lens. (voice of old experience)
Yo can also get a buddy and 2 chains to the top of the post with 2 trucks, then 'bend' it off like snapping a paper clip <G> , then sledgehammer the protrusions flush into the inside of the pipe stub.
Longer flexible sawzall blade...
Torch. Watch out for the spalling.
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....