Replies

1. FHB Editor
   JFink | Mar 13, 2006 10:21pm | #1

    

   <<Have tried epoxy, dowels and glue in holes - nothing holds the screws>>

   I'd say you've exhausted your options....time to rebuild.

   Justin Fink - FHB Editorial

2. 
   FastEddie | Mar 13, 2006 10:33pm | #2

   Move the hinges, and use long screws that will reach to the studs.

    

   "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

3. 
   nedly44 | Mar 13, 2006 10:40pm | #3

   try a longer screw. one that penetrates into the rough jamb. however, the finish door jamb needs to have enough integrity to at least keep the screws straight (no wobble).

4. 
   DonCanDo | Mar 14, 2006 12:50am | #4

   Here's an idea that worked for me:

   Drill out a 3/4" hole and glue in a short section of dowel.  Make sure the dowel fits snugly.  Once the glue dries, you'll have virgin wood to work with.  The dowel will be hidden by the hinge so you won't even have any cosmetic issues.

   -Don

   Edit: And if that doesn't work, and you can't reach the stud with a long screw, you might be able to pull the casing and slip a piece of wook behind the jamb for the screw to catch.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 3/13/2006 5:58 pm ET by DonCanDo

5. 
   Shep | Mar 14, 2006 02:30am | #5

   Can you remove the hinge side casing?

   If so, you can install some t-nuts into the back of the jamb, and use machine screws to hold the hinges.

6. 
   Shep | Mar 14, 2006 02:34am | #6

   I just thought of this -

   Someone here some time ago said they use the threaded inserts. Drill a hole, run the inserts in, and, again with machine screws, bolt the hinge to the jamb. 

7. 
   torn | Mar 14, 2006 05:52am | #7

   Unless I'm misunderstanding your situation, how about dutchmen? This would be easier than a full rebuild, but would ensure you have solid wood. You don't mention if it's painted or stained. Painted is a lot easier to hide the patch...

1. 
   LKremodeler | Mar 14, 2006 04:04pm | #8

   I'm new to this situation, what do you mean by "dutchmen"?

8. 
   PhillGiles | Mar 14, 2006 05:57pm | #9

   I'm just wondering aloud about the dowels, many people will stop at a very small dowel driven into the screw-hole - does that capture the situation ?

   Actually Torn is on the right path, using a dutchman (routing out a large section of wood and inserting a piece of solid wood in its place). But there are compromises too, most involve a combination of the solutions already presented. Here's where I might go on this:

   My suggestion is to drill quite large holes through the jamb where the screws once were (like 1", you'll have to judge by the space you have; use wood stabilizer to harden up the surrounding wood; put in large dowels that go right back to the frame; use the long screws (as others have mentioned) that will reach right through to the frame and make it one continuous unit.

   .
   Phill Giles
   The Unionville Woodwright
   Unionville, Ontario
1. 
   LKremodeler | Mar 14, 2006 08:37pm | #11

   Thanks Phill for your reply. The dowels were on the small side. We have not tried drilling out that large an area yet. So, we'll experiment with that next.

1. 
   DanH | Mar 14, 2006 09:52pm | #12

   The problem with dowel is that you get end grain -- not good for holding screws. Also, dowels are usually made of maple or something similarly hard that doesn't take screws very well.

   If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people

   happy?

9. 
   DanH | Mar 14, 2006 06:06pm | #10

   Use the long screws. If that isn't enough, rebuild/replace the jamb.

   If you do rebuild/replace the jamb, you can double-up the wood behind the hinges, or install metal T-Nut inserts to hold the screws. But you still need some screws through the jamb and into the stud, to hold the jamb vertical against the weight of the door.

   If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people

   happy?