I have a 1920’s house that we are currently having painted. Most of it is covered with cedar shake shingles. I am trying to stay ahead of our painter and remove miscellaneous stuff people have nailed to the house over the years that is no longer necessary (the cable guys screw things EVERYWHERE… old phone lines… etc.). My question is this… what is a good way to fill these holes? Caulk doesn’t seem like a very satisfying solution. Suggestions?
Also – can someone explain the process for replacing a shingle? I have seen this before (maybe in an old Fine Homebuilding?). I am a decent weekend carpenter… but would appreciate an honest assessment of how hard it really is (I seem to remember it sounding rather complicated).
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Replacing shingles made easy is to buy a "shingle ripper". Most roofing suppliers carry them and I've even seen them at HD. Pretty cheap.
I filled all the holes in my shingles before painting with Bondo for houses (vs cars). I used that because I have tons of it and you can't go wrong with it. HD also carries it in the paint dept for about $25 a gallon can (there ain't a gallon in there though).
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I know that filling the holes with caulk may not feel like a job well done but frankly, a good quality caulking may be best for the project because it will remain flexible through weather extremes and therefore keep its bond better. It will also be easier to work into small "pinholes" left from nails and screws. Smooth it nicely and paint once dry... you will be able to count on it for a good long while.
I would fear that other fillers would dry hard and eventually pop loose or through the effects of cycles of expanding and contacting, telegraph their location through the paintjob.
A caulk that I have always had good results and have found to be long-lasting, is OSI... their standard grade latex product is just fine.
As for replacing the occasional shingle, try to imagine how they are installed and a little reverse engineering helps to gather the concept. They are typically blind nailed, meaning that the nails for each shingle reside behind the shingle that covers it.... so you will not see any nail heads.
Unfortunately, Shakes aren't extremely common in my area so my experience is somewhat limited as to best or proven methods.. I can do it but think my ways have a bit to be desired... maybe not. Luckily, we have a lot of members here from the New England area where shakes seem to be rather common and I am certain they will be by soon to lend their expertise.
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most caulks will shrink leaving a divot showing after paint.
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I thought he was talking about primarily screw and nail holes
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exactly.
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Exterior spackle will be a basic choice for filling holes to be painted.
A better one would be bondo
Some old boat builder/painters here use putty/glazing compound
on the roof repair Q - the title says shakes then you ask about replacing a shingle.
Which is it? Shakes or shingles? And
Why is it necessary to replace it?
i'm not being picky -the answer depends on the information
garbage in = garbage out
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"...explain the process for replacing a shingle?"
I often use a flatbar - insert the long end of it under the shingle to be removed, and lever up sufficiently to loosen it, but not enough to damage or dislodge the ones above (at least too much). Now find the nails for that shingle (usually 1 1/2" up from the drip edge of the one above, and 1/2" approx from edges) and push the notch in the prybar there. Now hammer up until you dislodge the nails. Simple.
To replace - insert a new shingle into the space (you'll have rip a new one to size perhaps) but leave it 1/4" lower than the adjacent ones. Nail into this shingle right under the drip edge of the one(s) above, carefully using a nailset if you have to, and when nails are in, then, using a scrap of wood to safeguard the edge, knock the shingle up in line with the reaminder of the course.
That all makes sense... well pretty much. Walk me through that last part... won't tapping the shingle up into place make it want to split? Or... assuming it doesn't... isn't the shingle now riding on a nail that is (sort of) in a slot? Won't it want to slide down at some point? I think I have read something similar to what you are saying before... so it isn't that I doubt it (I don't)... I just want to understand it. Thanks for the response... first posting for me... couldn't be happier to get help!On the shakes/shingles thing... I must confess I have no idea what the difference is. These are on the side of the house (not the roof)... and installed like shingles I guess. I always treated those terms as interchangeable. Clearly not the case.On the hole filling... some of the holes are nail holes... but others are as large as 1/2" in diameter. Those are the most troubling ones. As a house with it's 100th birthday in site... I am not very concerned with a little dimpling (there are plenty of worse "character marks"...) but stuff staying put is definitely of interest.Thanks again for all the feedback!
Welcome to BT. You won't regret it. Mind you, you'll have to put up with characters like Piffin and Pete whp'll use your post as a means of repartee between themslves! ;-) Actually, they're both a wealth of info, even when they're doing that.That being said, get them to explain the difference. Give them something to do, eh. Click on their postings again.
A variation on a theme re setting nails in ¼" down - leave them just a little loose, they'll bend up as you hit the bottom edge, (remeber, proper shingle nails are thin and fairly soft - plus there's already 2 other shingles undereath) then when aligned place the flatbar over the top of each and hit that to 'set' the naills fully home.
½" holes in the siding can be filled with a filler, but maybe removing them will work now you know how. Get the best filler you can, it may even need a 2nd or 3rd blob to level the surface.
BTW, when you replace the shingles, give them a coat of stain on the back side (not paint, you'll seal the moisture in and the paint on the front will peel off) You might need to sand the new front faces, too, as any application on the front will raise the grain and make it fuzzy. Use a good quality acrylic paint if poss.
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"BTW, when you replace the shingles, give them a coat of stain on the back side (not paint, you'll seal the moisture in and the paint on the front will peel off) "any thought on type of stain.....i was going to back prime my replacement shingles tonight...with oil primer....phewwwww, that woulda sucked!
Check with others (maybe a new post, or use the search facility) as to stain v paint. Probably an oil/alkyd primer might be 'open' enough to allow the shingle to 'breathe'...just ask some more folks.