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Replace threshold in old home

clouts69 | Posted in Construction Techniques on August 21, 2009 01:34am

Hello,

I can’t seem to find an earlier post similar to mine so here goes. My mom’s house is over 90 years old and has a worn threshold to her back door. The damage is contained to the part that extends past the storm door – nothing more. The issue in replacing it is that it is not uniform in thickness from inside the house to outside. The threshold is about 1.75″ thick from the outside to about 6″ in (where inside door is) where it increases in thickness (weatherstripping placed here) and then meets the inside floor. I do not see how I can replace this without removing the entire door jamb as there is no way to tap in the threshold from the outside due to the fluctuating thickness of the threshold. Obviously, tapping in from the inside is not an option due to the horns. What I was thinking was to knock out the threshold to the point where it increases in thickness, place a straightedge along that point and using a laminate trimmer clean up the edge. I would then create a template from that edge to create my new threshold. Since the threshold is painted anyway no one will see where the  original threshold meets the new one. Is this considered an acceptable solution? Is there a better way to do what I need to get done given the shape of the threshold? Thanks.

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Replies

  1. User avater
    Dam_inspector | Aug 21, 2009 02:09pm | #1

    What type of damage? You may be able to epoxy the bad area, or cut off the damaged area and splice in some new wood.

    1. clouts69 | Aug 21, 2009 02:59pm | #7

      I could not epoxy it since there rerally isn't anything left on the outside. As for splicing I thought of that too and may still consider it by using my biscuit joiner to cut the slice.

  2. MikeHennessy | Aug 21, 2009 02:28pm | #2

    Remove the old threshold -- drill, cut, chisel, whatever it takes. Establish a firm level surface below for the new threshold.

    Mill a new threshold with the appropriate tapers, thickness, etc. Remove the stops from the door frame. Carefully cut the new threshold to fit in the opening tightly and tap it down into place between the jambs, adhereing it to the subsurface with construction adhesive. Finish nails if you wanna. Replace the stops.

    Mike Hennessy
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Everything fits, until you put glue on it.

    1. clouts69 | Aug 21, 2009 02:55pm | #4

      Mike,

      Maybe I am missing something but how could I tap it down between the jambs when the threshold is wider than that jamb. By removing the stops I don't see how that will help - I still need to deal with the jamb itself.

      1. DanH | Aug 21, 2009 03:04pm | #8

        Depends on how the threshold is cut, whether under the jambs or fitted between.If fitted between, remove the stops and pull the old threshold upward. Replace the new the same way.If the threshold is under the jambs it can be slid out/in from the inside (though the finished floor may be in the way). A way around finished floor problem is to cut the threshold into two flat pieces, bottom and top. (This may work out naturally with such a thick threshold where you have to piece it together anyway.) Install the bottom piece (which you would taper, inside to out) and then slide the top piece into place.
        As I stood before the gates I realized that I never want to be as certain about anything as were the people who built this place. --Rabbi Sheila Peltz, on her visit to Auschwitz

        1. clouts69 | Aug 21, 2009 03:14pm | #10

          Dan,

          I think the horns would prevent me from sliding in from the inside. Otherwise, I would certainly go that route.

          1. DanH | Aug 21, 2009 03:23pm | #12

            By "horns" I'm guessing you mean an outside part that's wider than the door rough opening? If faced with that, I'd probably consider making the threshold in three parts.
            As I stood before the gates I realized that I never want to be as certain about anything as were the people who built this place. --Rabbi Sheila Peltz, on her visit to Auschwitz

          2. clouts69 | Aug 21, 2009 03:33pm | #13

            Yea, that is what I mean. I may need to go with multiple pieces.

      2. MikeHennessy | Aug 21, 2009 03:09pm | #9

        The replacement threshold does not fit into the jambs like the original did -- it just fits between them. If well supported from below, there is really no need for it to be dadoed into the jamb. And the jamb is held in place by the trim, shims, etc., so there's not really any need to use the threshold to stabilize the jamb. The only part you leave wider is the ears on one (or sometimes both) side. I usually fill in the dado in the jamb, and/or make the new threshold a bit higher than the old so it covers the dado.

        I forgot to mention that I'd use something like ipe or white oak for an exterior jamb and caulk & flash as appropriate.Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PAEverything fits, until you put glue on it.

        1. clouts69 | Aug 21, 2009 03:20pm | #11

          That seems like a viable option. Thanks.

  3. DanH | Aug 21, 2009 02:44pm | #3

    I think what you propose would work. Since it's paint grade you could use something like pocket screws to secure the new piece, then putty the holes.

    As I stood before the gates I realized that I never want to be as certain about anything as were the people who built this place. --Rabbi Sheila Peltz, on her visit to Auschwitz
    1. clouts69 | Aug 21, 2009 02:56pm | #5

      Dan,

      Yes, i was thinking that or construction adhesive and sealant foam to fill the gaps and secure it even more.

      1. DanH | Aug 21, 2009 02:58pm | #6

        Yeah, certainly some sort of adhesive along with the screws.
        As I stood before the gates I realized that I never want to be as certain about anything as were the people who built this place. --Rabbi Sheila Peltz, on her visit to Auschwitz

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