replacement dimmers for flourescent
After an unsuccessful search I am posting this here and crossing my fingers…
It’s been a while since I posted a note at Breaktime.
We have several flourescent torch lamps that are dimmable.
They all use the same type of bulb – the GE Biax 2D – that is dimmable.
(The Biax 2D has four prongs.)
Problem is the dimmer/on/off switch has failed on a total of five or six so far.
I am wanting to replace the dimmer/switch assembly that’s on the lamp column.
Switch has four wires between it and the flourescent bulb assembly.
The quality of light from these lamps have been excellent and I don’t mind giving up the dimming feature.
If I can find a better made switch that would be nice.
If I have to bypass the dimming feature with only on/off that would be ok.
Any suggestion for source of info and parts would be appreciated.
(I can solder and repair electrical stuff clueless as to where to find the parts, etc.)
Thanks for your help.
Replies
A flourscent requires a specail ballast so that it can be dimmed.
And there are CFL's that have dimable ballast built in and work with standard dimmers.
http://www.energyfederation.org/consumer/default.php/cPath/25_44_169
However, with the torches I have no idea how that is handled or if there are any 3rd party parts. If there is a dimer module and separate ballast or not.
Can you take it appart and give picture/model numbers?
Is it one of these? Have you tried contacting the manufacture?
http://www.energyfederation.org/consumer/default.php/cPath/25_175_519_339
http://www.energyfederation.org/consumer/default.php/cPath/25_175_519_336
http://www.energyfederation.org/consumer/default.php/cPath/25_175_519_337
Thanks for the reply!Yes, basically it's the same thing as your examples.The Biax 2D tube plugs into a 4-prong base which I assume contains the ballast. It's bulky enough with vent slots to contain electronics such as a ballast.Four wires travel to and from the ballast and the switch that contains a rheostat.
My understanding is the dimmer and the ballast has to be compatible.Switch itself has diodes, etc. on a small circuit board.
The weak/cheap part has been the rotating switch - the on/off contact wears out and becomes inoperable, basically rendering the lamp unusable.I'm wanting to bypass the switch assembly and turn it into a simple on/off setup but the four wires has me stumped.If anyone is considering one of these lamps, watch out for the rotary on/off switch.
Three at our house and one I bought for my parents all failed at the switch.
here is the info at GE's site.
http://www.geconsumerproducts.com/pressroom/press_releases/lighting/consumer_lighting/cfl_092705.htmIt's listed as Circlite and 2D and mentions the base is sold separate either for torches or as a screw-in base.Maybe this means it could work with a regular dimmer.The light actually doesn't dim on a conitinous curve - it dims in maybe four distinct brightness levels.
Edited 4/2/2006 3:16 pm ET by AhneedHelp
Here is more info on the adapter base for the 55W 2D bulb...
It's a PDF file attachment.
Where did that PDF file come from?Is it was is in the download from the site from the previous message.After unziping it I see that it is an embded postscript file which is similar, but different from PDF and I could not open it.Is the switch part of the pot?From the sounds of it, with the four wires, part of the electronics is the base. But I dont know why there would be another other than a pot and switch if there are two parts.Can you post a close up picture front and back of the switch?
Is there a screwin base under the lamp.Found this that "ò Lamp and adapter are separate.
Replaceable lamps plug into
adapters that screw into standard
incandescent sockets.
ò Lamps last 10,000 hours; adapters
last 40,000 hours (4 lamp lives)
they use less energy. http://www.gelighting.com/na/business_lighting/education_resources/literature_library/product_brochures/downloads/attribute/energystar.pdfhttp://www.gelighting.com/na/business_lighting/education_resources/literature_library/product_brochures/downloads/attribute/energystar.pdfNow this shows the 38 watt version and it does have an edison base adapter and you can see the vents.http://oikos.com/esb/39/2D_Lamps.htmlAnd here is the separate base for the 38, but can't find one for the 55 watt.http://www.atlantalightbulbs.com/ecart/pg0827/2637.htmAnd here is the base for 39 watt 3-way.http://www.atlantalightbulbs.com/ecart/20Review.asp?ProductCode=GE2DFEA382D.3W3-WAY39WHere is the GE CFL catalog and it shows the bulbs and adapters. There are no adapters for the 55 watt 2D.Well here is on company that makes a ballast, but no mention of dimming.http://members.shaw.ca/sagelighting/2D%20Ballast%20Catalog.pdfWell I found this that gives the technical data on the bulbs and list soruce of ballast including the diming ballast. It shows a 4 wire connection to the dimmer.http://www.gelighting.com/eu/resources/literature_library/product_brochures/downloads/biax2d_datasheet_0506.pdfAnd this article that implies that GE makes the ballast.http://72.14.203.104/search?q=cache:l2LsWlLIAPUJ:www.buildinggreen.com/products/cfl.html+GE+2D+fluorescent+55+ballast+dimming&hl=en&gl=us&ct=clnk&cd=8
Thanks for taking the time to look up the info for me.I've run into similar info today and I need to look closely at your info to get a clue on the dimmer.the Biax 2D lamp adapter base on the torch light is hardwired (4 wires) and is not a screw-in base.
The 2D is the 55-W version.
(F552D Polylux).The four wires from the adapter base are black, white and two violets.
These are soldered onto the dimmer switch circuit board, which also has the black/white power source wires soldered on.
On this circuit board is the rotary dimmer switch that keeps failing on all my lamps.
Seems to be a $2 assembly that renders a $60-70 lamp useless.Thanks for all your help.
i know the post is years old but i just ran across it since i was searching for the same solution. i managed to figure it out.. what happened in my case is that the on/off feature of the switch is what failed. the internal prongs that are supposed to make contact when the dimmer is rotated on.. arent making contact at any time.. so i bypassed that part. by connecting the two contacts on the base of the pot the switch is always on and the dimming feature works fine. i plan to add an external foot switch on the lamp cord to turn the lamp on and off.
Source for dimmer switch
Attached is a link to the dimmable ballast for the torchiere fixture. I have 2 of these lamps and love them but have had the same problem. The switch is not listed on the website but you can order it by calling them. I just ordered 2 @ $6 each plus shipping.
http://www.sunpkco.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=1_16&osCsid=31dd49ae1cf8eca65ed5b03ddc7ca177