As a new homeowner, I have learned an awful lot just lurking here. But now I have a question (or three…):
How do replacement windows work? Is it a sash in a frame that goes into the existing opening, or do they take out the existing tops/bottoms/sides? Does the existing trim (interior and exterior) get replaced, removed and put back, or left in place for the install?
Do they really mean a big energy savings? (for double pane, double hung sashes).
If there is a thread on this, just let me know. I couldn’t find it when I did a search. Or if I need to post in another forum.
Thanks.
Replies
Very simplistically, you take out your existing sashes and the replacement window fits into the opening - you don't touch the trim, inside or out. The exact details depend on what you have now.
It reduces the amount of glass you have, so the windows will seem smaller. Energy-wise, they seem fine if properly installed (carefully caulked, insulation in all hollow cavities). I bought the 4000 series from HD and found the instructions good and the installation simple. I spent a couple hours on the first one and had it down under 30 minutes per window at the end.
Everything really depends on what you have now - If I had old single pane windows in decent shape, especially if they had 'style' or 'character' ,I would just add storms.
if u use window air conditioners, be prepared to compensate for that.
bobl Volo, non valeo
Baloney detecter
Thanks for this info. I'm becoming overwhelmed by how much there is to consider to make this decision. It all came up because the sills are rotting. The carpenter I had come to look and give estimate mentioned that if I ever wanted to replace windows, now would be the time, while doing the sills. And the storms I have are ugly, missing some screens and some storms, and they don't seem to fit right, as well as being hard to operate. The windows themselves are in good condition, apart from being somewhat "sticky" to open. But, I need to replace the front screen/storm door, and I ought to get something to coordinate/match windows... and I'm finishing an attic room that will need windows, that should match the rest.... Makes me miss the days when I could just call the landlord.
Generally speaking, is this a "get what you pay for" situation? Does the price difference between vinyl/wood/aluminum-clad wood reflect a difference in longevity? Or in performance? Or maintenance? Or just aesthetics?
If you can post a pic of your existing conditions that would help. One thing you should consider is repairing the sills with epoxy. If you have the time and are the least bit handy its not that hard to do. And its usually quite a bit cheaper.
I have used Abatron with great sucses. http://www.abatron.com They have a liquid epoxy that you use to seal and hardend the old spongy wood. Then you use their epoxy paste to fill in the missing bits of wood. Heck it migh be cheaper for your carpenter to go this route (if he is open minded to the idea) This all depends on how bad the sills are, would need to see a pic or two.
You'll need to do some research on the issue of one particular window vs. the other. Don't compare apples and lug nuts. I mentioned that I replaced a bunch of windows with replacements from Lowe's. Since the new replacements are tan, they do not look like replacement windows, unless you really look. Well, there were two others in the back of the house that needed to be done. That side of the house doesn't have siding yet, so I decided to go with prime Andersons in their comparable color. Ignoring the slight color difference (they looked the same in the store!), there were other differences too. The muntins (inside cross bars) are nearly impossible to see in the Andersons - on the Loew's windows, they stand out. There's some difference in the insulation value too. I want to say you get what you pay for, but the truth is that sometimes you get less.
I can't see your home, and don't know the numbers of windows or the specifics, but I sort of prefer the new prime windows, as long as you don't mind the extra work. Actually, that was one reason that I went with the two new Andersons. Don't kid yourself on the work involved. New prime windows will require jamb extensions on the inside more than likely in addition to the casing/trim inside and outside. (Is the outside trim the same width on new and old?) The inside jambs will probably need to be ripped to compensate for the wacky walls, and everything shimmed into place before you put the inside casing on. You talk about the plastic siding like moving it is nothing...I respectfully differ. Yeah, you can pull it loose easier than shingles or whatever, but it does break/bend and distort. If you need to start messing with replaceing broken pieces of siding or replacing the J-channel on the outside of the frames, taking that off and on, and it doesn't exactly fit the new windows, you will probably find some new words in your vocabulary - especially if you need to buy some and can't match the color. (No offense, but you did call yourself a homeowner.) The reason that replacement windows sell is because the outside of the house stays the way it is.
Good luck, which ever way you go.
Well, I knew this was the place to ask.
Sorry no pics, don't have digital camera, or time right now to master the posting.
The sills are in various states of iffy to really bad. I got some of that epoxy stuff and the liquid stuff, but some of the holes are way beyond that. The carpenter who looked at them said some could be epoxied, some could be repaired, others would probably have to be replaced. They look particulary nice now with plastic and duct tape.
I have no idea what kind of windows are in now, or how old they are (house built in 1927, but small & modest, not a historic showplace; I bought it in Dec.) Single pane, wood, but there are aluminum (?) strips along the side like instead of a rope & weigts --the strip moves into and out of a little slot at the top when I raise and lower the window.
I would have to hire someone to do this or to help me do this (i.e., I would "help" them), and from I've read, I wonder if I should go with something that includes the install as part of the package, for the sake of the warranty. Too many stories of windows failing, the mfr blames installer and vice versa.
Anyway, I will do more research, and I do thank you all for the info/questions/suggestions you've given. Definitely helpful.
I'd say make a trip to your local lumberyard. Virtually every one of them sells replacement windows - Maybe even 2 or 3 brands.
They'll have literature (with pictures)from the manufacturer than explains the process.
The majority of the windows that you get as replacement are already sash in frames. All you need to do is take out the inner window stops (not the "picture frame" molding around the outside) and slide the new one in, calk, etc., as described. Some companies sell the sash separate and you build your own frame. I think Pella has one of these. They are fairly easy to install. Measure carefully for the sizes, once they are ordered, they are yours. (I had to learn how to cut them down when I ordered a couple too big. Not fun.) Read the specifics on what you are getting. Look at the numbers for the U values, etc. Don't just listen to salesman jive. You can get them in color too, but again, it will cost. I got mine at Loew's, in tan. Some of them are junk and the savings won't exist. There are different options - like argon gas inside, or tinting. Prices will be different, and higher for a better window. It's nice to have the tilt in sash, but the windows don't open as much as the old d/h's and there is some loss of glass. Don't forget to order screens. They are extra.
Cool Advice guys, but a new twist for ya . . . I am thinking of replacing my 20 year old Andersens since they leak pretty badly. But instead of replacements, I thought about just buying new windows with a nailing flange and replacing them from the outside. The house is sided in vinyl, so shouldn't be a problem to pull the vinyl back and get to the ROs. Of Course then I would want to replace those cheesy fake plastic shutters with another trim detail since shutters are not an appropriate detail to my 1987 split level. I know this introduces a new elemnent of problems since I would have to remove interior trim, but that's not really a problem either. I just hate how replacement windows look like. . . . . well . . . . replacement windows and thought this method would be more aesthetically pleasing.
Any pitfalls you can think of that I haven't considered?
Check with Andersen before you make any decisions...my neighbor just got 7 HUGE Andersens relaced under warrantee (they were about 20 years old), because they leaked. Labor was also covered.
If your old windows are Andersen Permashield Narroline (not primed Narroline) you can install Andersen tilt-wash conversion kits. This replaces the side jamb liners as well as both sashes. You're now back to the 10/20 year warranty.....and they tilt. Also the new sashes will be HP glass (low-e & argon filled). You can also get them with finelight grilles instead of the snap in type. Basically you're using the old frames but replacing the guts of the window. Unlike replacement windows, the glass size remains the same. Install time 30-60 minutes per window.jocobeView Image
Some one ought to remember the fairly recent issue of FHB that looked at just this topic.
I'll look when I get home (unless I have supper plans I don't know about yet <g>).
The FHB article touched on replacement sashes; the replace-the-glass units, and complete window replacement. They had some concise info, generically, on price and the energy efficiency of each choice, too.
I should have thought of that-- will look on the web site for articles. Thanks!