Replacing 16′ garage door with a wall
I use my 20′ x 20′ garage as my workshop. I have decided tp replace my 16′ garage door with a wall that will have a double door. The garage floor is at ground level of coarse with a 3′ interlocking brick sidewalk across the width of the garage (I had the driveway removed a couple years ago). There is no water problem leaking into the garage as I installed drainage lines in my lawn when I remove the driveway.
Everything is 2″ x 6″ construction. The garage opening header (which I don’t want to remove because of a steel beam that the header is attached to) is only 1.25″ higher than my double door casing, so I was going to set the door unit right on the floor and water seal with a good caulking.
Question 1: Any suggestions how to fasten the door unit to the floor?
On either side of the door unit (61″ each side), I was going to install a 6″ high cement wall and then build on top of that. One idea that I had to help secure the door unit at the bottom was to install the door unit first. Then drill two 3/8″ holes 2″ from the bottom of the door unit frame on each side, and install 6″ bolts protruding out the sides. Then I was going to pour the cement walls right to the door unit frame which would encase the bolts and help secure the door unit at the bottom.
Question 2: What do you think of that idea, or do you have a better suggestion?
I understand that to get a good adhesion for the cement I have to gring off all the garage floor paint and get down to the cement and roughen it up a bit. Then paint a ‘white liquid’ product (don’t remember the name) and por the cement on top. This is supposed to get you a great seal. I will also drill holes and install bolts into the floor before I pour the cement to give the wall support and put in bolts on top of the cement wall protruding up to attach the wall base plate.
Question 3: Am I missing anything?
I would appreciate any comments. Thanks for your help.
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Replies
Q1: Tapcon bugle head screws, P3 bit I believe. Failing that lead expansion anchors. Silicone, the best you can get and more than you think. I would try every way I could to lift that door, even 1 1/4"
Q2: Sounds good but I would try to use a method that would let me replace the door. Use 2x with the lag heads counterbored in the 2x, even if they're only 6-8" high. Or consider putting up the door jacks first, oversized RO for shims, and braced to keep their spread. Since the doorway is already headed and you just need two door jacks plus their proximity to cement consider using ACQ/PT.
Q3:Not sure about the white liquid, a concrete man would know more. But if you're boring into the old to keep the new from shearing off, consider epoxying/hydraulic cementing in bolts long enough to protrude from the wood plate on top of the 6" cement to which you can hex nut said plate down to. I might consider grinding a 2" wide by 2" groove or keyway but again a mason/concrete man would know better.
Thanks for the tips. * -:¦:- * -:¦:-** -:¦:-**-:¦:- -:¦:- ((¨* -:¦:- * ¨)) -:¦:- -:¦:- Alexandra-:¦:-