I’m going to be replacing some of the worn out windows in our house with Andersen 400 series casements. Several Will be going into 2×4 walls with an exterior brick veneer. Old windows have a brick mold, new ones will not. New Windows will also be slightly smaller.
What do I fill the space between the new clad window and the brick veneer with? I’m thinking Azek, although myself or my carpenters have never worked with it. Planning to butt joint it in the corners, do the corners need to be glued? My other concern is expansion/contraction. The trim will will only be a few inches wide, but will be up to 8′ long in some areas.
Any help would be appreciated.
Replies
On one house where we were replacing only some of the windows, they wanted them to look the same. The exterior outter size of the frame meant ripping new brickmold down some to fit to the existing siding. Ripped the inner edge of the BM, from a distance looked like the same white space as others on the house. Built out the BM a bit so it would plane out close with the clad edge.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I'm pretty sure Andersen makes pre-clad trim just for this purpose.
Al Mollitor, Sharon MA
it's called "perma-sheild". high grade plywood with no voids wrapped in vinal. i don't know for shore if Andersen makes it or not, but they do recomend it.
I used it on my Andersen's, brick exterior, but joint's in the corners, sealed the ripped edges with silicone. 8 or 9 years now with out a problem
The Azek 9 or Koma ) cuts and nails just like wood, maybe even a little better since there's no grain to worry about.
I'd use that over the Anderson trim since it needs to be ripped to width. I've used the PermaSheild casings in the past, but (IMHO ) the PVC trim is a better product.
I was told about the Andersen trim before. My concern with it at the time was that it is a plywood wrapped by vinyl that will need to be ripped to width. I am not sure how it would hold up in contact with masonry. My biggest concern would be the ripped edge up against the masonry. I have never used that Andersen product, so I am not sure if my concerns are valid.