I was wiring a new service for a home today and, coating the aluminum 4/0 and 2/0 wire ends with GB Ox-Gard (an anti-oxidant compound…and there are probably other brands), I was reminded of a tip once given me by an electrician:
I have a number of recessed lights in my house and when they burn out, replacing them often means actually breaking the bulb free of the base and removing the base with needle nose pliers because more often than not the damned bases oxidize in the fixture. (I once had to replace an entire fixture, because I destroyed it getting the old bulb out!!).
But, for the last several years, thanks to an old sparky, I’ve kept a tube of the anti-oxidant compound with the lightbulbs and, when replacing a bulb, I smear just a dab of the compound on the base. (I actually do it routinely to all my incandescant bulbs anymore). The result is that burned out bulbs are removed easily with just a twist of the finger tips.
Happy Thanksgiving!!!!
Does Taunton fork out $$$ for tips on BT? I didn’t think so. OK, they owe me one! 🙂
Replies
Thanks for the tip, Notch. Mostly it happened to me with exterior light bulbs.
Some people swear by a raw potato, I have never tried it though.
I could be wrong but a lot of the time when this happens it is because a standard bulb is used in a fixture (track or can) that is supposed to have one of the R-whatever bulbs (reflector). The heat cooks the sealant between bulb and base.
Happened to me with both A or R lamps.
The silicone grease they use on brakes also works. Just a smear does it. This stuff is pretty much clear so less chance of obvious fingerprints.
Graphite also works well and doesn't collect dust. You can use the stuff in small tubes you get for locks, about $1, but it can get away from you and black marks in customers houses is never a good thing. Hint: If you drop the tube don't let your help step on it. Particularly if your working on an off-white carpet.
Or you can use the edge of the lead on a common pencil and bear down. Go cross threads leaving heavy black marks and work your way round. Takes about a minute to do it right.
Any of the methods is good and, IMHO, just about required on fixtures with aluminum shells in the socket. Once done these treatments last a couple of bulbs. After a couple of treatments it pretty much lasts the life of the fixture. A much happier and longer life as the bulbs don't stick.
Umm,
Graphite in tubes or pencils conducts electricity. Not a heck of a lot but I'd worry about a slow burn going on!
Silicone grease, on the other hand, is used in the bulb sockets of cars to prevent corrosion there and is the best bet.
White petroleum grease would probably work too, they use it on battery terminals.
Good tips.
We also have an insulated broken bulb remover, for those bulbs that brake inspite of everything. It is an arrow shaped metal barb on a pole, and has a clear plastic shield just below the head. It is used by jamming it into the broken bulb end and twisting it as upward pressure is applied. The searrated edges of the head bite into the old bulb base and back it out. The plastic shield keeps the remaining glass and filament pieces from falling in your face..
Most electrical supply houses carry them, and I think I have seen them at HD and Lowes. Worth the < $10 it cost and much safer for the fixture and the operator than needle nose. Buying a couple of extra poles to go with the head can extend your reach to 18-20+ ft. Bulb remover heads added to the kit can mean leaving the ladder on the truck.
Dave
Anything that reliably and effectively keeps you off a ladder is a good thing. Ladders are dangerous. Getting shocked on a ladder can be interesting. It is always a fight to see if the shock or the fall or the realization that neither of the above killed you will kill you.
They actually do make a product just for that purpose called "bulb grease" which I think is the same product just packaged in a smaller tube so it can be sold at a higher price.
They do accept tips like this for publication in FHB. I'll let you go first.
Happy Thanksgiving. Rich.
I use Permatex Antiseize.
A quick tip we used to use when changing one of the many bulbs in the Library where I once worked was to remove the old socket with a new light bulb. Use care not to break the bulb (and obviously this is less exciting without power.) Put the new base into what's left of the old base and with a little pressure turn out the old base. Might not work with corroded sockets but effective in a hurry.
I use Vasaline
The secret of Zen in two words is, "Not always so"!
When we meet, we say, Namaste'..it means..
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
I use Vasaline
keep it to yourself, please. way too much information.
SHG
Good one Sh...
Sears sells bulb grease in tiny little tubes. I use it frequently. I purchased from HD a suction cup bulb remover for such problems, this works really well. I don't like the last resort of breaking and the use of needlenose.
I saw a pretty neat tool at HD the other day. It is basically a short round "stick" made out of plastic that had a soft plactic end. You just jam it into the remains of the broken bulb and twist it out. Will probably get one next time I am there. I also use a silicon ignition wire grease.
Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md