reproduction of large bolection molding
i just got the go ahead to repoduce 4 large mantels 78″ w x 65″h
2 poplar paint grade, 1 rift sawn white oak, 1 mahogany. there is one component that has got my creative appetite whetted. its a large i know it as a bolection molding, i’ve also heard refered to as a “strawberry ” molding. regardless of the name i have a rough drawing attached. it’s 5″ in height, projects out 3″ .
now i’d like to try and reproduce this myself , is there any way to do this with out a large shaper, i dont have the hand planes, and dont have the time to hunt them down. because of time restraints. any ideas or advice would be appreciated. i know the easy way is to sub it out ( the molding)to a mill shop. and be done with it. but i like a challenge the bigger the better. i have an inkling of an idea that the 3 h.p shaper , elaborate hold downs and cradle system and expensive set of knives is the most cost effective way. but im holding out for any other procedures. thanks for any help……… bear”expectations are premeditated resentments”
Edited 9/11/2004 1:16 pm ET by the bear
Replies
try this......
bear
I could build that whole thing with a router and a few bits.
Do it in layers and then stack them up!
You should be able to section the thing out and find a router bit that will match your profile. Cut the piece of wood, route, do this to each section and stack them up using a little glue and some nails for clamping.
Doug
I printed out the picture that you posted. The bottom part of that profile may require something other than router bits, though you may find some close.
I just looked at the entablature and seen it as fairly simple. That bolection moulding might be a little more challanging. I think I might try some sort of jig and a table saw. Cut your round pieces and make a jig that will cradle the piece so as to run it over the blade(for the concave portion) the outside radius you may have to pare off parts with the saw but I still think that you can find router bits that will be close, you got the radius's of these profiles?
Edited 9/11/2004 2:22 pm ET by Doug@es
thanks doug ...the entablature is not a concern pretty much a lay up. the bolection was my main concern, nbut sectioning the thing is definite possibility... thanks again..bear"expectations are premeditated resentments"
You could rough out the shape on the table saw. Start with a piece that's wider than the height you need, maybe 6" wide. Trace the profile on the endgrain of the piece. Start from one edge and run it thru the tablesaw with the blade at a height that just touches your profile tracing. Move the fence 1/8", adjust the blade a hair, and run again. Keep moving it 1/8" at a time and adjusting blade height until you've roughed out the entire profile, using the tracing on the endgrain as a guide. Leave the extra width on the board to keep it a consistent height above the table as you hog out the middle, then trim those edges off.
Finishing it would probably be with scrapers, including inside and outside curves, and then sandpaper and some curved blocks (sticky sandpaper stuck to blocks is ideal). There are also some profile sanders out there that might help, although I've never used them.
That's some big honkin' wood you need, maybe 16/4 or 20/4 by 6" wide or wider. It's not out of the question to find flaws inside material like that, stuff you can't see from the outside. Might want to charge at least $100 per lineal foot for that molding, maybe $200.. $300... $1000?
Send us pics of how you do it.
thanks dave- more good advice. will do.
"expectations are premeditated resentments"
Edited 9/11/2004 9:33 pm ET by the bear
Run the concave portion on the table saw at a skewed angle (as for a cove ... I often use a molding head with a half-round profile for this). Then cut the convex areas by sawing tangents to the curve. Follow up with a plane (just a flat plane) or portable planer by cutting off the points to approach the curved shape (as you do these steps keep working from end to end so that the molding profile stays straight). Now take light passes with the plane cutting off the corners again. By this time you should be very close to the desired shape. Rough sand with well-padded, sharp, coarse paper. Now you can sight for any areas that need some straightening and check with a profile gage for any needed adjustments. At this point it is simply smoothing with successive grits of sandpaper and you are ready for assembly. This project represents lots of work but requires more care and perseverance than skill. You can do it.
thats some good advice clay , the procedure you lay out . ive used on cove moldings and have even thrown a bevel in there to make it interesting. thanks for your time and advice regards .....bear"expectations are premeditated resentments"