need help with the best product to finish existing plaster over previously plastered stone walls. building is 170 yrs old or more and damp……….{floodplain}………………… walls are clean……………space is dry……………. though dampness will be a problem over time…………..
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
Learn how to fight wood-boring beetles and prevent home infestations with expert advice from Richard D. Kramer, an authority in pest control.
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
Bump.
Sounds like an interesting house! Somebody who knows far more than I do will be along...
Well, I would say,
plaster!
Molding plaster and gauging lime, about even proportions. If you need to slow the setting time, add a smidgen of cream of tartar.
cream of tartar?
i know wood, and can drive a broad knife and trowel quite well, but recipes are my downfall on this one
Yeah, cream of tartar. That's what my plasterer told me, and they've been doing this for 3 or 4 generations. Of course, this is what he told me after I told him I'd run out of money to pay him to fix the holes in my ceiling <g>.Anyway, he said just a small amount, about the size of your pinky nail, will slow the curing time to about an hour. But I notice someone else suggested much more lime in the mix, which should do the same.
here's what i do . i read in some book that escapes me right now. i scrape the whole area of any loose plaster and any debris cracks need to be dug out and slightly beveled on each side of crack. . cut loose any really area patch with drywall. use 80 grit sandpaper to rough the area up. get yourself some reinforcing mesh or fiberglass screen and ####roll of perma- glass tape it's self sticking. before you apply the mesh get a bonding agent plaster -weld , or PVA(polyvinyl acetate) . you and a helper strecth the mesh tight than tape it down with that self sticking stuff. take some joint compound remove a quarter of ####5 gallon take VERY FINE sand .blend it up trowel it on thinly leaving the mesh barely showing. let it dry, then apply second coat over any irregularities after the second coat dries, level out the corners and srape or knock down any ridges lumps and so forth left by the trowel. then for the third coat apply standard joint compound over the fortified coats of compound if you need additional thin coats until the roughness disappears. remember the thinner the coats the quicker they dry . after you do that polish it up with ####damp spongue softens the the coats then polish it with a sponge float . it takes a while to get the process the learning curve is not steep at all.
..
I'd clean the walls of all loose debis. Clean really well and apply coats of Structolight until you have a base you're happy with. Final coat with plaster.
If Blodgett says, Tipi tipi tipi it must be so!
TipiFest 06~~> Send me your email addy for a Paypal invoice to the greatest show on earth~~>[email protected]
If dampness is a potential problem, basecoat it with portland sand mix and scratch it. Browncoat with structolite (like Andy said), then do your white coat with the traditional lime putty and guage plaster a 3-1 mix. (lime to plaster.)