OK, I’ve managed to get out all of my glass, strip and sand all of the old glazing and paint so I’ve got nice frames with bare wood. I’ve primed the frames with alkyd primer and am ready to fill in small cracks and holes. Can someone confirm my presumed process?
1. Filling: Exterior spackle or wood filler?
2. Lightly sand filler
3. Glazing: I was going to use the caulk-gunned glazing but it seems like most people still lean towards Dap 33. I’ve tried it once before and didn’t have much luck, but this time I have 24 windows to learn on. Can/should I use Boiled Linseed Oil over the fresh new primer? Anyone have strong feelings about which type of points to use? It seems to me that the ones with the little tab to catch the edge of the knife would be easiest.
4. Let the glazing set up. How long, really? I’ve heard various stories. And then paint with exteior latex. What sheen? Gloss, I resume.
5. Weatherstrip. I’m thinking some kind of vinyl (PVC) profile that inserts in a routed slot. I’ve also seen the stick-on kind that seem like they’d be easier, but I doubt they’d last very long and I think they’ll probably just look cheap. Anyone have sources they like? Fundamental question: Is weatherstripping for the storms advised? Will it help keep air infiltration down, or will it just trap moisture and accelerate rot?
6. Hang the storms. I’ve found several sources for the hanging clips and thumb-turn buttons, but I can’t find the arms that allow you to prop open the storm and lock ’em. Anyone know a source?
7. Storm window ID tacks. Anyone know a source for these? These are the brass tacks with numbers to ID the various windows. I’ve found one source that have tacks with one number per round tack head, but my windows currently have a small rectangular plate with up to two numbers embossed. I think these look a little better (verrrry picky, I know)
I’m hoping with full restored storms, we’ll be able to leisurely go after the primary windows and redo them one at a time and leave the ropes and counterweights. Hopefully the storms will prevent air infiltration through the sash weight cavities?
Any help or advice will be very appreciated.
Replies
1. Filling: Holes, damage or raised grain?
3. Dap 33.
Can/should I use Boiled Linseed Oil over the fresh new primer? Yes.
points to use? Tabed
4. Let the glazing set up. How long, I like at least a week.
What sheen? Gloss, I presume. Yes
5. Weatherstrip. I'm thinking some kind of vinyl (PVC) profile that inserts in a routed slot. The better way...
I've also seen the stick-on kind that seem like they'd be easier There are pretty good ones out there. Smoke seal would last and not look or be cheap. Put it on after the paint in either case..
Anyone have sources they like? I use a whole saler but the BB's will have what you need
Is weatherstripping for the storms advised? Will it help keep air infiltration down, or will it just trap moisture and accelerate rot? I prefer it. Do a 99% seal job. Leave a small vent hole at the bottom.
6. Hang the storms. I've found several sources for the hanging clips and thumb-turn buttons, but I can't find the arms that allow you to prop open the storm and lock 'em. Anyone know a source? More BB...
7. Storm window ID tacks. Anyone know a source for these? Nope. Use a felt tip on the edge of the window. Clear seal afterwards. Watered down Elmers will work for that.
I'm hoping with full restored storms, we'll be able to leisurely go after the primary windows and redo them one at a time and leave the ropes and counterweights. Rework the windows and abandon the weights and ropes????
Hopefully the storms will prevent air infiltration through the sash weight cavities? Yur windows should be doing that...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming....
WOW!!! What a Ride!
I always learned to use linseed oil on bare wood. Its purpose I understood was to oil up the wood so it would not draw the oil out of the glazing. Would the primer not seal the wood so the linseed oil couldn't soak in and do the intended job? Just curious to see if I am viewing this incorrectly. DanT
That's the way I learned it but he says he already primed everything.
The linseed can't hurt...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming.... WOW!!! What a Ride!
Your window counterweights can be placed inside of PVC tubes to slide free and then you'll be able to insulate tight around them.
http://www.houseofantiquehardware.com/rehdw_otherhardware.htm
They have the numbered tacks you were looking for - link above (check bottom of the page).
I use butyl caulk to bed the glass - lay the sash flat, carefully run a very modest bead on the horizontal surface that supports the glass, lay the pane and use your fingertips to wiggle and bed it in the caulk - -
I have a tool that looks a little like a stapling gun to set the points - about $75, but with the number of sash you have and anticipating doing the primary sash, you should consider investing - - works great for framing pictures also - - I'll find a link if you want me to -
you can condition the Dap 33 with boiled linseed oil if it needs it, also a drop on your glazing tool for the final smooth can help
I used flat felt weather strip glued to the frame where the storm sash contacts - - not elegant/high tech but works well and is easily renewed in 10 years
When applying the dap 33, it helps if its warm. Then take a blob and roll it into long snakes like you did in preschool. Lay the snake along one side of the glass and press in with your fingers. Then drag a putty knife under a bit of preasure along the glass to get that smooth angled finish. The glazing takes awhile to dry, anywhere from 1-3 weeks. I would not paint it untill its hard enough that you can not push your finger in to it.
If you've ever seen a professional do it, the glazing compound is pushed into the frame with the palm (not rolled into a snake) then cut with the knife. Much faster, much more consistent, and the compund isn't worked as much. The snake thing sounds like old Bob Vila.