Lookin’ for some suggestions gang.
Built a pair of shelving units for a client. At the outset of the project, it was decided that shelving should be adjustable. Now that the units are installed, client feels the holes is the side panels for the shelving pins make them look less desirable. Wants me to add fixed shelving.
Units are installed and trimmed. I’m thinking of two ways to go about it.
(a) Build a pre-assembled insert consisting of two sides dadoed with the shelves affixed and slide into existing units.
(b) Piece meal it. Adhere individual squares of birch ply to insides of units…set shelf….add another set of squares to insides….set shelf…etc., etc.
If I go route “a”……will 1/2″ birch with 1/4″ dadoes suffice, or sacrifice the extra 1/2″ inside dimension and go with 3/4″ birch dadoed 3/8” deep?
If I go route “b”, I’m thinking I only lose 3/4″ interior dimension using 3/8″ ply at either side.
Input? Any other suggestions?
That haircut, and a time out. All in the same week.
Sucks to be you.
Replies
how wide and how deep.
are the shelves stiffened by a front edging..
or can one be added under the back?
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Three feet wide, fourteen inches deep.
Front edges of shelves will have a decorative moulded dge....not sure how much stiffening it will offer.
Don't want to add any cleats at back.....figure that's part of the look they are hoping to avoid.
That haircut, and a time out. All in the same week.Sucks to be you.
I'm assuming you have face frames and it's stain-grade?
1/4" ply will hold up a shelf just fine. Getting it bonded with the sides also shouldn't be that hard. I'd probably use a thin film of gorilla glue and 18g brads, although many guys I've known would simply use a water based contact adhesive and press the new sides into place.
Good luck
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
Face frames yes....flush at sides, no reveal.....paint grade.
I was planned on adhering new interior sides using a poly based construction adhesive (existing parts were primed prior to assebly) and spreaders to clamp until dry.
That haircut, and a time out. All in the same week.Sucks to be you.
It sounds like you're on the right track.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
This is just a wild hair idea that you would have to run by the owner...
Leave all as is and make up some vertiacl leg supports say about 2-1/4" with a detail milled into the edges - releif or a bead, or whatever looks right with what is there.
Use the same guide you used for making the holes for supports to hole the backs of these and then cut them to fit between shelvs and add some dowel plugs to hold them in place.
While milling, make extra.
Now they have the option to still change their minds again
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Wow, I had the same idea as Piffin. Simple and reversible if they decide they want adjustability again.
You can tell what kind of customers we serve, eh?
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Kinda like wood "shelving standards" that would pop in and out of the existing holes?
That haircut, and a time out. All in the same week.Sucks to be you.
JD
I like Jerald Hayes' idea. One step furthur would be to use Magic Wires instead using the pins(that would still show) for the existing shelves.
Magic Wires are wires that insert into row holes just like your shelf pin holes - you route a grove on the sides of the shelves and the shelf slides over the wire. With this you still have a shelf that is removeable though.
Doug
We had the exact same thing occur before and what we did was we just plotted and marked the pin holes we were going to use for the "fixed shelves" and then just veneered the side panels and the re-opened up the holes we were then going to use.
If the client ever did decide to move a shelf finding the hidden holes is pretty easy.
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