The millwork for our addition will be arriving on Wednesday. I’m going to start installing the doors (11) and trim in the evenings. I’m just wondering what everyone’s preference is. I hear some guys say they nail everything with a 16 guage nailer and I hear others say to use nothing less than a 15 guage nail on solid core doors.
My plans is to use the 15 guage nails for the door jambs and 16 guage of 18 guage for base and case. Which is the better nailer for base and case, 16 or 18? I’ll be installing pre hung solid core doors, 5 1/4″ speedbase, 3 1/2″ Stafford casing, and a little bit of 3 5/8″ crown built up over more speedbase.
While we’re at it…. when you lay 3 5/8″ crown over speed base, do you butt the base up pretty tight to the ceiling, or bring it down some…. I guess what I’m asking, is how much space do you leave between the end of the base’s profile and the crown molding?
As usual, thanks in advance for any and all insight.
Replies
for what it's worth---
I use 15 and 16 ga everywhere
on the two part crown - mock a couple and stand back to look at it in different lights. You'll know what hits you right
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I use 15g for base, case, and crown.2 1/2" on doors and crown. Two opposed nails anywhere I can find something to nail the crown, two each stud, two each joist, or deadwood...I hate that stuff to move<G>Loved the tip in FHB from the DIY who used 18g brads for his crown, cause it was easier to putty the itty bitty holes, ha,ha,ha...sheeshN, don't forget to get long screws and dry shims for those solid core doors...but you knew that ;-) What in the gosh darn golly have you done to Rez?
"and dry shims for those solid core doors"DRY shims? What are those.
Apparently, ya just can't get 'em anywhere...LOL What in the gosh darn golly have you done to Rez?
Perhaps I`m older than Piffin after all. I refuse to hang doors with nailers. Solid wood, solid core and even hollow core are all still installed by hand using 3" bright finish.
No special preference on the gauge of the nails for mouldings.
I do agree with him on the crown build up......do a few mock ups....maybe even a coat of paint or stain....check your shadow lines, and choose your preference. No hard and fast rules.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
I prefer to use trim-head screws for hanging doors. They are adjustable and leave a hole the same size as a finish nail.
For case and base it depends how large the trim profiles are. 18 ga is fine for small base and most casings. If you're into 1x4 fir and the like, then use 16 ga nailer.
I had a great long winded post that is lost in cyberspace somewhere. Here's the short.
Normally I order my doors with the door stop shipped loose(as in not attached). I use 2 1/2" 15g to hang the door, then nail it off with a 10d spiral shank framing nail, that will get covered with the stop. 3" screw through the hinge.
Casing I use 2 1/2" 15g into the framing, 1 1/4" 18g into the jamb. If jamb and casing are unfinished, I add a bead of glue(not to close to reveal line.
Base I use 16 guage, only because, that is what my Paslode shoots, which is way more convenient. With 5 1/4" base I use 3- 1 1/4" brads to strengthen the outside corners.
Stacy's mom has got it going on.
90% of the experienced finish guys I've looked up to over the years use 15 g for everything except the thin edge of casing, which gets an 18 g brad.
There have been times when a 15 g is a little big and an 18 g is a little small, but the times are few and far between. The popularity of the 16 seems to be for the one gun carpenter.
16 g guns and nails are cheaper than 15 g so if someone is on a romen noodle budget that wouldn't be a terrible choice.
The Senco SFN40 was a terrific 15 g, a top choice amoung trim carps. Mine went 100,000 nails before needing a rebuild. Senco's replacement for the SFN40, the 41XP is even better than the original, although they are very similar indeed.
Nails are cheap and it doesn't take that much to fill holes in paint grade so I'll shoot around 50 15 g nails when hanging most midweight interior doors.
For heavier doors I'll run a screw into the jamb under each hinge (so the screw is hidden) after it's shimmed and nailed. A long screw will have to match very well before I'll simply replace one of the original screws.
On staingrade jambs I'm a fan of pulling the door stop molding and placing most nails there where they'll be hidden and using screws under the hinges. Knots, strike plate recesses, and natural dark discolorations are also favorite places to hide nails.
Good luck,
Don
Thanks to everyone for their insights. Good advice as usual.
I'm thinking I'll use 15 guage nails for everything but the thin edge of casings. My Hitachi 15 guage nailer is actually my favorite of the 20 or so pneumatic nailers I own. The angle is just right and it just feels great in my hands. So if you all believe that 15 guage nails are an acceptable way to go... it's certainly good enough for me. I'll use the 18 guage for nailing the casing to the jambs and tacking miters together.
Thanks again.
Brian,
Of the 8 or 9 finish guns that we own I can think of only one 16 ga. and that is the Paslode cordless. The only reason for that is, AFAIK, they don't offer a 15 ga.
For the doors, as long as your shimming the primary load will be borne by the screws you put behind the hinges. Still, we use 15 ga. to keep things in line (of course, since we don't have a 16 ga...)
My preference for built-up crown is to separate the difference between the edge of the crown and the edge of the profile by the profile height plus 1/8-1/4". Just my preference though.
Jon Blakemore
RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
any pic's of the millwork profiles?? whats the scheme your planning?
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Personaly, I like to use a 15ga for everything, except like others, the thin edge of casing. And I use my pinner for miters base.
Solid doors, shims at the hinges and screws into the framing will hold them better then a bunch of 15ga nails
screws for the jambs,15g for the trim...
I would also step the crown size up a notch...
if its a budget thing I would go bigger crown and drop
the build up....regards