Hi All,
I have a small job tomorrow that has me not able to drag a TSaw along.
What’s the best way you’ve come up with to make an accurate, clean rip of a 1×3 to 2 1/2″ wide???
My solution: Buy the lumber and take it home to my shop and do it.
Or. Rip it rough with a skilsaws and plan it down to dimention.
Is there a better way?
Cor.
Replies
You do know that a 1 x 3 is already 2 1/2" wide?
I occationally use my skillsaw screwed to the bottom of a piece of 3/4 plywood. Setting up the tablesaw is too much of a pain for ripping one or two pieces on a baseboard job.
Drill 4 holes on the baseplate of your skillsaw to mount on plywood.
Plunge through plywood to the proper depth
Use a piece of wire to fasten the trigger. (UNPLUGGED)
I use a switched powerbar for the on/ off. but you can plug /unplug in a pinch.
Flip it over onto a couple of sawhorses, and fasten so it won't slide off. (you'd be suprised...)
A chunk of board screwed to the top will suffice as a fence.
(Don't let the toolhounds see you ;~)
Enjoy.
Gord
St.Margaret's Bay NS
When I'm working without a tablesaw and want a clean edge, this is what I do:
First, I make the rough cut with a circular saw or jig saw. Then, I secure the piece and plane it to exact dimension with a power planer. Securing the board is the hard part, but it's done quite effectively if you use one of those wood-jawed "woodworkers" clamps. I tighten the wood in this clamp, and then secure the first clamp to a table top with a conventional clamp. It might sound confusing, but hopefully you get the idea.
This method works pretty well, especially if you need a tapered piece.
i'm not sure i can explan this method but here goes.take a pair or stair gauges [ the little brass pcs that go on a square to set stairs].attach one to the front and back of your skillsaw base at the distance you need from the blade so that you have a guide at the front and back of your base. works pretty good up to about a 3" cut. larry
hand me the chainsaw, i need to trim the casing just a hair.
Sharp blade & a rip guide on the saw does wonders!
Yep,
If it's not worth dragging the table saw out, or it's too small for the shoot board, I go back to the truck for the rip fence. FWIW, you can do some pretty decent work, even on small stock with a shoot board if you get creative enough.
I had a welding shop make me a 2ft rip gauge years ago,simply welded a couple together. Comes in handy when ripping ply to fill TJI webs.
I didn't do it....the buck does NOT stop here.
I can get pretty darn good results using my finger as the rip guide,on rips less than 5" or so.
If you don't have a rip fence you can sometimes improvise with a couple of small clamps and a piece of 1x.But I figured someone would chime in here about that guide system everyone's been hyping.
Is there a better way?
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Secure the filler
with Clamps
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Cut right on
the line
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Tapered cut
You can allways make something like that. Then you can do all your jobsite cuts.
Better-fester-easier and SAFER than your table saw.And the jobsite cuts are 99% trim and fit cuts.(tapered) The tablesaw is not design for tapered cuts anyway.
The better way is the Dead Wood Concept.Find a way to secure the wood into a guide, and the means to guide your tool on the guide. Then ,the wood the guide and your tool become one with CNC like precEZon.
Edit: Now, this is something that you can make with your tablesaw.
YCF Dino
Edited 12/18/2004 9:41 pm ET by YCFriend
If your lumber yard has 2" x 3" stock, I'll bet that it's actually 2-1/2" wide. - lol