When I designed my log house I didn’t know enough to extend the eves on the steep (12/12) pitch section farther out. So, the 6/12 and the 12/12 valleys drain down over a set of log notches. The eves have a 2 foot overhang, but not enough to clear the logs. I temporarily put some metal roofing over the top of the logs, trying to divert the water, but didn’t work. I think I must install gutters, but how to do it.
The roofing material is standing seam metal, and I don’t want to nail,screw through it for the gutter hangars. Also, I don’t want to screw through the cedar eve trim. And, to make matters worse, I have to be able to remove the gutters in the fall, so the snow doesn’t rip them off when it slides (Mountains of western Colorado).
Does anyone know of a demountable gutter hangar I can slip up under the metal, and then “snap” the gutters in and out, spring and fall?
Thanks for the help.
Stef
Replies
Sorry to hear of your troubles. Sounds like you learned the hard way that one of the requirements for the long-term success of a log structure is overhang. I can`t help with the gutter question but if the eaves are really short you may want to consider extending them. Even frequent wind-blown rain can create big trouble down the road. Is it a pre-cut house with a butt and pass corner and tongue and groove lateral? They tend to hold moisture more than a full scribe corner and can fail fairly rapidly. Is it possible to trim the corner logs any shorter? I`ve seen some really long corner logs on precut houses and if I doesn`t compromise the structural integrity of the notch, you could shorten it some. At the very least, until you resolve this, I would install Impel rods to help control any long-term rot problems. Way cheaper than replacing logs. Not sure how much you know about log work. ILBA standards recommend an 8:1 ratio for overhangs as minimum. That`s one foot of overhang for every 8' feet of vertical logwork below the horizontal point of the eave line. Measure from the logwork extending out farthest from the building, i.e., usually the flyways. Personally, I think more is better. Some don`t like more overhang for asthetic reasons but I`d rather protect the house. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the response.
The eves are 4ft on the 6/12 pitch, and 2 feet on the 12/12 pitch. Walls are 9 feet tall. The logs are scribed and coped with saddle notches and scarfs, which my wife and I did.
The water only hits the outer end of the log. We have cut the ends about 18in. from the intersection. Also, it rarely rains, so won't be such a big hazard. Still, the house was a monumental effort and I don't want any compromises.
I guess I'll just have to remove the screws every winter. Fortunately, there is only a 6 ft section of gutter in each of four locations, so won't be that onerous.
STef
I've seen very old roofs where the gutter brackets were soldered onto the roof itself. MAy work if you have a painted roof and can spot paint the burned areas. Probably not good for a factory pre-painted roof. Also, some half-round gutters have clips that are quite easily unclipped. You could leave the clips permanent and just take off the gutter.
How about some pics? I`ve been working on mine forever. Where`d you learn it? Lets hear some details (especially the trials and tribulations part. I hate to suffer alone :)
you need some of these?: http://slateandcopper.com/wgs_installation_hpp6.htm
As somebody else said, half round gutters can be hung from brackets that allow them to be removed. check out the "wedges" at bottom of this link - which will help if you have square cut fascia. (site is sorta tedious since it has no photos until you click thru the descriptions) http://www.oldworlddistributors.com/fasciabracketsindex.html
If your rafter tails are exposed, this site might prove useful. They also make custom brackets . http://www.bungalowgutterbracket.com/Home.html