Last year I build (well I played GC) a new house. Said house has a shed roof (well more of a clearstory) that faces into the predominate winds of the area. I had a local roof (well thought of and good referances) roof the place and all is well for the most part. However the detail said roofer used for the top edge of the roof is a bit of a problem. The shingles run to the top as expected (Roof venting is from under over hang) and then he took a standard drip edge and nailed it on top of the top edge of the shingles. Logic of this is that the drip edge needs to be on top of the shingles or the water will run under the shingles as the normal down edge of the drip edge is now up.
Anyway this seamed to work ok until a big wind storm a week or two ago, now 10′ of this is sitting in my back yard. Roofer is willing to go up and fix said peice to roof again but is this the best way to handle this? I dont want this to keep blowing off and if it happend once i could happen again. (Unless this was just the case of not enough fasteners)
Only thing I could think of what to bend a costom alum. shape say 8″ wide peice bent to 2 inch and 6 inch in the shap of the number 7 and secure that some how.
At this point I would rather spend the time and effort and get it right.
So how do all of you detail out the top edge of a clearstory roof?
Doug Meyer
Replies
If you have 10 feet sitting in your yard, then you can inspect it to see what the spacing of the nails is. Also, are the nails still in the metal or still on the roof??
If the nails are in the ten foot piece in the yard, how long of a nail was used?
Ten feet is in the yard, so how many feet is still on the roof? Undamaged?
Rich Beckman
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10" coil stock to match roof or facia color, hemmed for ridgity with a slight flair away from the facia board for a capillary break. Bent to the appropriate angle so there is about 4 inches overlying the shingles, the rest against the facia. Lay a 3" strip of bituthane between the shingles and the matal cap so you can face nail through the top without worrying about leaks. A dab of silicone or urethane on each nail head wouldn't hurt. Nail off the front to the facia with matching aluminum trim nails (don't caulk these). Work carefully and don't pound the trim nails to hard else you may get puckers that are quite visible from the ground (guess how I know). If you need to do this in several sections, overlap each piece about 6 inches and seal the seam with a bead of silicone or urethane caulk.
Thanks all.
I never really thought about looking to see what the spacing on the nails was on the bent wreck in the back 40. But that is a really good idea.
As for bending a new piece it is not a bad idea. I had the rest of the trim bent from scratch for this job (being as it is my house and all :) ) But in truth the neighbor who is a window contractor help with the bending for this. He worked cheep (for beer and a burger) but good. It worked out well. not sure why I did not think about it for the roof. I guess it was a detail that just got away from me. (I was heading out of town on buisness the day after the roofing was done so I did not catch this.)
Anyway as for the shape, are you thinking a basic L or 7 to match the angle and then a small (say 1/4") flair at the bottom? That would be pretty easy to do. And being as I can stand on the lower roof to work on the upper it is not even a hard job (as such)
Oh and to answer the question about how much is still on the roof. Well the roof (counting over hangs on both sides) is 72' so I would say thier is another 62' up thier. This was the end part (last on) so it did not start to pull any of the others off. I think this may be a case of a bit of a rush at the last as when they were puting this last trim up it started to rain (hard) so I think they rushed the last 10 or so to get done and off the roof before they slid off the roof.
I know I could put the drip edge back up (well a new one anyway) but I really would rather just fix this for good if this is not the prefered way of doing this type of roof. I dont have an issue with the drip edge idea if the roofer types don't but I am not a roofer. I am a Design type guy more the a roofer so this is a bit out thier for me.
Anyway Thanks once again, and if anyone else has any ideas let me know. i am not doing anything until it stops snowing on the roof!
Doug Meyer
Install new drip edge and make sure it's nailed sufficiently. Cut a two inch or so wide strip of coil stock (I typically use copper) and nail it down slightly below the nails on the top course of shingles (say 5" or so) parallel to the drip edge.
Form another piece of metal in a "U" shape with the bottom of the "U" 5" wide or whatever the dimension from the lip on the drip edge to the bottom of your strip is and the two legs should be about 3/4" each. Slightly over bend them (so they are less than 90d).
Slide one leg under your cleat strip and squeeze it down and then squeeze the other side over the top edge of the drip edge. All fasteners will be concealed.http://grantlogan.net/
Here is how i do it - similar to your roofer, but with never a failure.
I shingle to the top except for the last exposure piece of 4-6".
Then I nail on the flashing using nails at about 1'OC.
Then I place the final strip of exposure with puckie sticking it in place and nials through, and then butter the exposed nails.
Another method I have used rfor the final exposure is to run ridge pieces along there still seting them in puckie but this hides all but the final two nails at one end from exposure.
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Once again thanks all of you for the ideas.
Doug Meyer