I have a client. he has a home with a 20 x 25 family room on the back of the house with a flat roof. he wants to put a master bedroom and full custom bath on top. shed roof back to main ridge. the architect has drawn it with a 3-4 pitch. the entire existing roof is cedar. if i ice and water the new shed completely, is cedar o.k ? (with what exposure ?) also, the family room flat roof is a membrane . am i obligated to remove it before framing a second level on top of it ?
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What's a 3-4 pitch?
You're almost as paranoid as the people that're trying to kill me.
What?!
Go to the Woodshed Tavern....check out the "arriving now" thread. Should explain it all.
Edited 3/9/2005 9:40 pm ET by Notchman
First, I want an engineer to sign off on adding the weight of a second floor before I add it, archy or no. The existiong foundation might not have the carrying capacity on whatever soils you stand on there.
Next, Do you mean the new shed styule roof will pitch so as to drain back onto the ridge of the existing home?????
Third, Do you meana 3/12 pitch or a 4/12 pitch or do you mean some bastardized 3/4 pitch???
If you are talking about either a 3/12 or 4/12 pitch, it depends on what your climate is.
If your new roof would drain towards the existing, I have two concerns. One is how the tie in flashings would be doen, the other is how the existing roof is fromaed to carry that load - which goes back to #1, has an engineer looked at how things are now framed? Have you?
Can't work in the blind here.
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3/4=9/12?PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
Sorry about the lack of info. 3/12-4/12 pitch. The job is drawn and stamped. no problems. roof pitches same direction as existing roof. My only question is if there is a minimum pitch requirement for cedar roof shingles or is it just an ice and water/exposure issue. Hope i cleared things up a little.
on a roof , cedar (red cedar) will normally be 5 1/2"
white cedar would be 5"
3/12 is ok.. but not my favorite.... 4/12 is better..
what is the main roof ?
i'd put the roof on "Cedar Breather"
and i'd use ice &water at the eaves.. and RoofTopGuardII over the rest
with the low pitch, i wouldn't use skipped sheathing
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
To clarify your statement. 5.5" exp. is for 18" perfections, 7.5" is for 24" royals, and hand split 24" can go to 10" exp.No cedar is recommended for 3/12..4/12 is ok, but can be the dividing line.I agree about the breather, but having done skip sheathing and breather very recently, I would choose the skip shething with felt between courses. Just my opinion.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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Thanks Mike. Entire existing is cedar also and I planned on using cedar breather.
If it is drawn and stamped, why didn't they get more specific than either 3/12 or 4/12?For cedar, there are climates where I would want both I&W under the whole thing and cedar breather on a 3/12 pitch. For 4/12. it depends a little on the insulatinn and vent pachage. When the ting is more likely to ice dam, the I&W is more necesssary. But with more I&W, the breather is more necessary.Sphere - the interwoven is for shakes, not cedar shingles. I definitely wouldn't do shakes on a 3/12 in snow country though.
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