I am working at the house of a regular client installing wainscot paneling. This morning though, she saw water dripping from the bathroom light fixture, which is underneath a roof top deck ( Hate them, nothing but trouble!!! Water always wins!!!).
I opened up the ceiling to find the underside of the plywood decking wet, and a slow but steady drip from the joists. Upon looking at the deck from above, there is signs of several patch jobs under the low eave on the exterior wall. I am going to have someone come and redesign and replace the wall, eave and a gutter system to keep the water from pooling. I don’t have the equipment to tackle such a job (staging, roof brackets etc.)
Should I suggest a torch on membrane for the roof top deck and if so, how high up the walls should it go?
Edited 11/28/2003 8:01:34 PM ET by kiwikidd
Replies
I've had great luck with EPDM roofing products. And even better luck if it can be done in one piece, no seams. How big is the deck? Is there a buffer between the bottom of the sleepers and the roofing material?
I usually lap the roofing up the walls a minimum of eight inches, making sure the housewrap is over the roofing.
What do you mean by a buffer? The deck is about 21'x18'. Can the material you suggested be purchased that size?
What I meant by a buffer is this: We usually use PT 2x4 sleepers on the flat, so we make up a bunch of 4"x12" strips of the EPDM which we fold and glue together like you would a piece of scotch tape to stick to the back of something. Then we glue these to the sleepers at 16"OC. This way all that is actually touching the rubber roofing is more rubber. Cuts the friction and wear of the roof down big time. Nice detail.
Don't think the EPDM can be had that large. However, the materials available for sealing seams is pretty good these days and if installed correctly, nothing to really worry about. Never really like to see a roof deck on the plans, but when the client is really sold on one, I don't really sweat it that much.
I always suggest leaving a panel in the corner of the ceiling underneath somewhere out of the way. That way the underside of the roof deck can be checked out from time to time over the course of the next 20 years and hopefully catch a problem before it becomes a structural issue. Maybe half go for it. Sooner or later all roof decks fail. My opinion is that people look at them to be more deck than roof. I see them as more roof than deck.
i've got a epdm roof going on next week almost the exact same size[mine is 33'w x 18 long,sloped at a 1/2 per foot] we'll cover it with one pc that comes in a 20 x 50 sheet 60 mil thick. cost on the sheet is about 375.00 plus glue. we'll have enough extra to cover the sleepers so the deck can sit on them. good luck
epdm is definatley th eway to go
FHB even did an article on your very situation a few ( about 6) years ago.
the rolls come 30' wide i think and really long.
i've put a roof that was 20'*40' down on my own but it was a struggle.
really good stuff though
you guys really like to make it hard for yourselves. I shake my head everytime I see reference to torch down or EPDM or FHB articles on waterproofing showers.
Do yourselves a favour. Go to this site http://www.ardexbp.com.au/datasheets.htm
scroll down to Waterproofing and check out what's available.
Regards
mark Quittintime
Mark,
That may be a pretty good product you've got there, I don't know. But geez, I can't imagine an easier installation than EPDM unless it was peel and stick!
EPDM is like wallpapering the floor....really not much more than that!
Mate
Painting is easier than wallpapering...and that's all you do with this stuff.
regards
mark Quittintime
Uh....Mate,
I'm glad your system works so well for you. Myself, I've never had a call back on one of my EPDM roofs. Always good to hear about new products and choices though. Hate to keep making you "cringe" from over here in the Dark Ages.
Regards
there's nothing wrong with any of those choices if they are working for you. Keep the water in or out. I guess my point is, don't call them " best practice" when there are other alternatives that are better. Quittintime
ok, mark... throw a 20 liter pail in your carry-on next augustMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
mark... i assume you're talking about the sheltercoat 2 part for roof decks..
most of our applications would be on plywood... how do they treat the joints ?
and how long does the plywood last.. one benefit of epdm is the plywood is isolated , usually by 1/2" hardboard ( composition board )...
is the sheltercoat going to wear like 65 mil rubber ? Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
And what are you using ?
Ive got a porch roof to do that is about 1/12.
Tim Mooney
epdm... 65 mil.. ..
hey, tim...you making plans for next august yet ?Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
"hey, tim...you making plans for next august yet ?"
Its on my mind unanounced so far. Now with that said,
Im going to have my wife run her schedule at work as she is the one always in question. We want to take another Alaska cruise this summer , but Im also wanting to attend your fest and she said she would if plans could be directed.
Tenative - Thanks for asking.
Tim Mooney
Mike
The shelter coat I've not used. Always just used the Superflex one pot system. These systems are UV proof ,trafficable ( with a sacrificial coat ) and fast to install. Totally waterproof if installed correctly. I use nothing else. I have to warrant all my work for 6 years by law http://www.bsa.qld.gov.au/scripts/factsheet.exe?id=28 or lose my license. If I have a claim within the 6 year period, I have to fix the problem at my cost and then the part that was fixed is warranted for a further 6 years.
Wet area leaks and claims are the single largest problem in the residential industry here. Usually from shoddy work practice or the of non approved systems.
I don't take chances. Never had a claim and intend to keep it that way. The use of membranes in wet areas is so outdated I cringe whenever I see it touted as "best practice".
Regards
Mark Quittintime
Mark, you mention 6 years warranty, loss of licence, question, what type licence/work do you have? Here in AZ, subcontractors only have to warranty their work for 1 yr, General contractors have to warranty their work for two years, in the residential arena. 6 years, wow, to me that seems a tad bit too long for warranty work.
australia.......Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
australia....... Close, when I typed AZ , I was trying to imply, Arizona, of the United States of America. Jim J
>FHB even did an article on your very situation a few ( about 6) years ago.
Nov 97 page 78.......I had it open on my desk from last week when the topic came up.
Everyone talks about EDPM because no extreme equipment needed to install ,not because it is the greatest roof product in the world.In the real world it has a life of appx.12-15 years due to shrinkage and seam failures,most laymen do not understand the seaming or correct detailing procedues.
I recommend to most resdenital installations a two ply SBS peel and stick product there are now 4 major manufactures making them and they take much more abuse than any single ply on the market.I think you find that are very few manufactors that warrenty their products in a residentail application.Polyglass,celotex,and gaf warranty the application of their product.
Just finished a rooftop deck and I agree - water tries to win.
In my case, under the deck is 1500 bottles of superexpensive wine in the new wine room we built for him.
We used a torch-on roof system with 3 layers. Usual safety features and the roofing up 8" up the walls. To make sure, we urethaned every place we had to work up against.
We also placed 2x4's on the flat and shimmed.
Every roof coating has a design life. Perhaps this one has exceeded its' design life and just a renewal with properly installed new one is the trick, Hmmmm?
Quality repairs for your home.
Aaron the Handyman
Vancouver, Canada