Hello,
I am going to enclose my patio with doors and windows and put a roof on it. Here’s the thing – the roof will have a very shallow pitch (1/2″ per foot).
I am interested in a roof that looks pleasing, as the roof is visible from ground level and from the hillside in the back. White would be a good color to keep it cool inside and out as well as looking good. I am most interested in being water proof. We have very mild winds and no snow loads here in southern California.
I think price is almost irrelevant at this point, as the roof is only 250 sf. I have set an upper bound of $5k, with hopes of it being MUCH less.
I have found three roofing products for this application that look appealing but am hoping to find others: spray-on foam; standing seam metal (steel?); EPDM (liquid and sheet), TPO
What other options are out there for me in this application? Any help would be much appreciated.
P.S. – it is not possible to increase the pitch on the roof without serious impact to the existing roof on the primary structure. So, this is not an option.
Edited 9/21/2009 6:10 pm ET by Mike_Mills
Edited 9/22/2009 1:17 pm ET by Mike_Mills
Replies
Copper flat seam, or TPO. I like the TPO idea.
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TPO-It will give the white look you desire, it's heat seamed, so no messy looking splice adhesives, and won't break the budget.
If the budget allows the copper would look the nicest.
John Svenson, builder, remodeler, NE Ohio
One person told me that a copper roof would not work because I have such a shallow pitch. Is that true? Do I need soldered seams or crimped seams, or what?
I was thinking of a standing seam steel roof that has been coated white. I picked steel because it expands less and would be less prone to buckle than copper roofing.
Any thoughts on the trade-off between these two?
Heres a small copper locked and soldered seam bay roof from last week .
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One person told me that a copper roof would not work because I have such a shallow pitch. Is that true? Do I need soldered seams or crimped seams, or what?
Then you should not have that person install a copper roof. That low of a slope should be flat seam soldered unless some other criteria exist. I don't know of any painted steel roof products that are approved for that low of a slope. Check manuf's instructions before purchasing.copper p0rn
how about a green roof?????/
here's one i've just finished over epdm
I like it! But i don't think it would work inSo Cal. To dry and hot."There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves."Will Rogers
What is the existing roof done with?
EPDM and TPO are my choices so far, but photos would help.
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The existing roof of our house is a "textured" three tab asphalt shingle.
The patio cover had no solid roof. It was flat-topped 2X8 joists covered with white lattice panels.
When it is built, the roof of the "sunroom" (enclosed patio) will be a shed-style roof (flat, sloped in one direction, away from the house).
One reason I am confident this will work out is that the flashings between the new roof and the house will be overhung by the 24" eaves of the existing roof.
Another reason for confidence is that the "flat roof" is not really flat. There is a gentle slope away from the house (1/2" per foot) so the water should run off (not pool).
I am in the middle of building the structure and have plans for the roof up to the sheathing. What is missing right now is the selection of the outer covering. I want to make that selection before I start the sheathing.
Right now, the new roof does not exist, as I have not gotten that far in my construction of the structure. Hence, it is not possible to photograph.
Edited 9/22/2009 1:14 pm ET by Mike_Mills
Edited 9/22/2009 1:17 pm ET by Mike_Mills
Edited 9/22/2009 1:19 pm ET by Mike_Mills
"One reason I am confident this will work out is that the flashings between the new roof and the house will be overhung by the 24" eaves of the existing roof. "That gives me more concern than confidence. If you are running this back UNDER the existing soffit, you are making it harder to do the flashings, and it means that you do have enough room to give this roof more pitch.By photos, i meant of existing roof, not the new
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Interesting point, Piffin.
I think I am about to learn something (from you). I can feel it coming. I've got that, "Boy, am I a dummy." feeling coming on. ;-)
I'll post a photo tonight when I get home.
and I'm getting a warning itching me behind the ears that I am going to need to open my CAD program instead of doing this verbally
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What about IB Roofing?
http://www.draftymanor.com/house/090117/0901003.jpg
what about it?I have never heard of it before. Wanna say something good about it?;)Teach me
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Appears to be a proprietary PVC system. They sell everything branded- membrane, adhesive, screws, insulation board, flashings, edge metal, etc. Probably don't manufacture anything - just buy it and rebrand it. Nice site, though. Looks like a franchise deal.copper p0rn
Well guys, you were right and I was wrong. There, see, I said it. Now, let's move on.<!----><!----><!---->
I've been working down at ground level and gotten everything down there taken care of. After I finished framing the walls, I put up one rafter just to see how things would fit. <!----><!---->
HOLY &*^%#$ STOP THE TRAIN!!!<!----><!---->
You can make anything work on paper. You can draw just about anything. Spacing and clearances are just so many lines on a piece of paper. <!----><!---->
It is very clear to me now, I am going to have to remove some of the existing roof to do a decent job of installing the new roof. The 24" overhanging eaves are just too long and do nothing but get in the way of a proper structure, get in the way of doing a proper flashing and roofing job. What I am going to do about this is still TBD. <!----><!---->
What I am drawing/sketching right now, is reduced length eaves in the affected area. If I cut them back to about 6" it will open up/expose the area needed for the new roof. It will allow ready access to the exterior wall to facilitate installation of flashing and the roof materials. It puts a “notch” in the roof line. I would install fascia board and rain gutters to tie the new edges into the existing edges.
I suppose I could cut the eaves off completely and just use a trim molding around the perimeter of the new roof line. Look at popawheelie's picture #1 (frok_002.jpg in post #76, above) as an example of how the roofing could be terminated at the upper edge of the exterior wall.<!----><!---->
Does any of that rambling make sense? I have no way to post pictures/sketches.
Edited 10/19/2009 3:46 pm ET by Mike_Mills
It will after I go back and look - can't recall what the dickins this thread was all about right now
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aH YES, Grasshopper, how could I forget?I might yet do a CAD drawing of how I would do this - got to get another bill ready to mail first....
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Rolling back about 80 posts to what I was thinking...take a look at these and see how the roof raftrs would perch atop the existing wall to give you easier framing and more roof pitch.
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What software did you use to create that image? I have a 3D CAD program I bought a looong time ago but it barelly works on the new machines. I could use a new (and different) one.
I work with Softplan - version 14
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Some guys here are quite proficient with the free download google sketchup. It models in 3D very nicely.I made no attempt to draw this specifically to your dimensions, but went from memory of the photo you posted a while back.Did it get the idea across that we were trying to speak of? That by elevating the rafter ends to the top of the waall instead of butting in under the soffit, you get a smooth transition with no flashing difficulties.
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Yes, I understood you even in your original post. I just couldn't make the mental "leap", the commitment, ... I wanted a different solution. I wanted a solution that was "easier".
Turns out my version of "easier" is actually harder. :-)
Still, I loathe cutting into the roof above the eaves.
Let me find "sketchup" and see what I can do with it. My hand-drawn sketches are decent but...
Best to yah
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Paul -
After looking at your rendering, I think I'd bring the front of the porch up a little more and match the existing cornice and eliminate that little bit of flashingon the side. The valley would terminate at the front of the porch, rather than back up the roof. Whatcha think?copper p0rn
That depends on his situation. i did not try to detail evey inch of this, just to show th basic idea. If I reall his photo correctly, his beam is already about there. It would eliminate that much more flashing for him tho, and let some trim flow differently.
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I went to the McElroy Metal Roofing web site. They sell a product called "MasterLok-90" that looks to be just about ideal. It is useable on roofs with slopes as low as 1/4" per foot which is much less than my application. It is available in white. It will have a nice appearance.
Now I need to find an experienced roofer in my area to install it for me. Ah, but that's another story.
The typical attached, low pitch patio roof in SoCal is done with mineral covered asphalt rolled roofing, heated with a big torch to activate it's adhesive, making it permanently attached to the underlayment.
I built a roof over the south facing~20'X20' patio on this SoCal house, with a similar pitch, about fifteen years ago. I then hired a roofer to do the torch-down. Paid about $400.
The roof has been trouble free, no sign of any problems. It hasn't lost any of it's mineral surface and it looks like it'll be good for another fifteen years.
Having used similar rolled roofing in the past, without torch down adhesion, I wasn't expecting to get more than ten years out of this product/application. I'm very impressed.
BTW, this product is made in various colors, to coordinate with most asphalt shingles.
Edited 9/23/2009 5:22 pm by Hudson Valley Carpenter
We had a leaky flat roof on our tower and searched for different flat roof options. We found a roofer who offered the IB Roofing system. http://www.ibroof.com/ It went up fast and was dry for the rainstorms immediately following.
So, we called him back for more roofing work (metal this time). We had a large flatish area that we thought we'd do with metal, but after much discussion, we went with IB roof decking material (different texture than the white stuff we'd used on the tower, so it was better for walking on).
If you go to the middle of this page, http://www.draftymanor.com/house/081105/, you can see how the material looks in gray. Again, in quickly and no leaks in the membrane (some leaks at the door that we're still working on - screen door on the flat side of a house not the best idea).
The tower roof has been on for almost a year, and the other will be on a year in Nov or so. We're very happy with it, but not that much of a testament for a product, since we haven't had it for a long time. Our builder/roofer had our trust, so we felt comfortable going with the product. Plus, after all the other leaks, we were willing to try anything.
Mr or Ms Key, it would help if we knew the locale where you have had success with this roofing system.
Things vary widely region to region. Something that does well in Key West will fail miserably in Lake Tahoe, and vice versa.
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"A stripe is just as real as a dadgummed flower."
Gene Davis 1920-1985
That would be Ms, and Jenifer is fine. We're in Fort Worth TX, so heat, but not much in the way of cold and snow.
Could do fiberglass like roof decks are made of.
I'm not sure exactly what it was you were getting at here. I don't know why but laying a fiberglass roof really appeals to me.
Do they sell pre-preg or are you referring to a fiberglass mats and resin (as if I were building a boat)?
Perhaps you were just suggesting pre-cured fiberglass sheets?
Edited 9/24/2009 2:29 pm ET by Mike_Mills
No. I meant mats and resin. At the shore, every house had fiberglass decks on the second floor and on the roof. They are usually top coated with a color that goes with the house, and last between 20-25 years if they are kept clean and not beat up. They can be sanded and re-top coated.
Any idea of the cost?
1/4" thick * 250 sf = lots and lots of mats and resin (5.2 cu ft or 39 gallons). Even if the fiber volume is 50% to 60%, that's still 20 gallons of resin.
Can you imagine the odor... and the heat given off during the cure?
I have no idea what it cost's. I know we just had ours re-coated, and some worn spots repaired. THe deck is about 8x30, and it cost just under $2000.
Well, it's taken me a long time to get this photo posted, but here it is.
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This is a photo of the original patio cover, as it previously existed. The entire structure has since been removed, except for the left-most column in the photo. I have moved the columns, as required, to frame the rough openings and poured concrete sills. I am about to install the headers (for the soon-to-be installed patio doors) and the ceiling joists come after that.
I overlaid the photo with a red line to show the approximate line of the new roof once it's installed. I have a roofing design and methods for installation. I have tentatively selected McElroy Metals MasterLok-90, in white, as the roofing material.
http://www.mcelroymetal.com/content/products/display.cfm?product_id=15
Edited 9/29/2009 10:34 pm ET by Mike_Mills
Corrugated fibreglas panels.
BTW, once your photo is uploaded to the web (anywhere) you can copy and paste it into the message here. Like this:
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Yeah, think about wavy FG panels. Inexpensive, lightweight, goes on quick and easy, and comes in a whole variety of colours.
If you don't like that, put on EPDM and grow something on it like Kostello.
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
I am fairly confident that fiberglass panels would leak. The prevailing winds and all winds during storms are from the ocean (west). Rather than running off, due to the shallow slope, the rain would be driven right up beneath the panels and into the room.
This is the problem with most of the metal roofing systems I've found in my research - not enough slope to keep wind driven rain at bay.
I really do want a real roof.
That Kemper system looks like a fantastic product but I doubt anyone would be willing to come to my home to apply 250 sq ft of it.
P.S. - In case the perspective is not apparent in the photo, the total drop from the right to the left is only 7 1/2" over a 13' span. That is just over 1/2" per foot. I cooked up a scheme to get another 2" of drop but that still leaves me with only 9 1/2" drop total, still not even 1" per foot.P.P.S. - I am trying my level best to keep out of that thread entitled, "I don't need no stinkin' building codes". :-)
Edited 9/29/2009 10:47 pm ET by Mike_Mills
You can get more slope on that porch roof by taking off from the roof of the house, instead of starting on the house wall below the eaves. That is not necessarily more complicated to build than what you are proposing.
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
I think you have a basic misundersanding of roofing materials and methods. It is proper flashing details that keeps water out, not the pitch of the roof. Wind driven rain can enter a vertical wall, which is a pretty steep pitch. I also have to repeat what I said earlier and dino has just restated, that you can get more pitch easily. It is better to frame on top of that wall than perching alongside of it. Probably your lack of experience is creating a mental block for you to overcome.
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I'm sure you are correct. However, at this point, my mind is made up. It is one of the few things on this project about which I am clear/resolved/decided.
Mental block? No, just resolute.
I'll tell you what, if it leaks, you can bet your bippie I'll be back here asking questions about better ways to do this.
You better not win that bet; I don't think you really wanna see his bippie.
You biggest problem, as Piffin mentioned earlier, is going to be flashing the roof/wall connection while working up under the existing roof's eaves. You will need to strip off the top 3 or 4 rows of siding, install the flashing to the new roof, then replace the siding--all in a very tight space with no room to swing a cat, let alone a hammer. It's the kind of job that makes guys like us curse.
Good luck to you, but remember: Just because you're truly, seriously resolved, that doesn't mean you can't change your mind.
Politicians do it all the time, and for less good reasons....
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
There is no siding on the house, it has a stucco exterior. The flashings would have to be silicone bonded to that exterior.
One feature of the Dek-Tek roofing option (and some of the other membrane roofing options) is that the membrane runs up onto the wall without a seam/flashing. This option still requires a drip edge.
No, that's not the way you do it.
You have to strip the stucco down to the sheathing, put on your flashing, then re-do the stucco to cover the vertical leg of it.
Still resolved to do it this way?
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
or flash it at the fascia under the existing shingles, and block in the end view with something.Can't see all this, but I suspect a valley dumping onto this roof too.At least he is in a dry climate, so it won't leak too often.
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That'd be butt ugly, but a lot less trouble than redoing the stucco. Can't imagine how he'd hide that, though. Flower boxes, maybe....
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
I just downloaded the install pdf for that ( don't try on dial up unless you are going out for a while) It is a butt ugly commercial style product anyways. He needs to really see what the stuff looks like before he orders, as well as study the instal details. This is not going to be user friendly for him.If I were approached by a HO to do this roof, I'd want to ask why spend so much to make the job so hard to get such an ugly product in place? I might even pass on the job.
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Well, I think we know where Piffin stands on this one. Honestly, Piffin, I respect that perspective, too. Were you referring to Dek-Tek when you said it was, "butt ugly"? It's no worse than, is quite a bit better than, the black membrane roofing materials, the asphaltic roofing materials, "torch downs", roll roofing, etc.
What this thread is about is finding better roofing material options with which to cover the new roof.
What Dek-Tek and several other products have going for them is you can come up off the roof sheathing and onto the wall with no seam, no possibility to leak (self-flashing). If that is overlaid with a counter-flashing like Sphere mentioned, it should be fairly water tight. This is something the standing seam metal roofing does not offer.
Edited 10/3/2009 4:43 pm ET by Mike_Mills
Piffin, I respect that perspective, too. Were you referring to Dek-Tek when you said it was, "butt ugly"?
No, Mike, it was me that said 'butt ugly' in reply to Piffin's suggestion that you could flash under the fascia of the existing roof (you could, and it would work) instead of stripping the stucco to install the flashing on the sheathing the proper way.
In that you've already cut your stucco, you might as well strip the rest of it and do the whole thing right. 'Surface' flashing is entirely dependent upon whatever goo you use to seal it to the wall. All sealants eventually fail, and as I said to Sphere, you're not gonna want to go in under there every couple of years to squirt in new goo as preventive maintenance.
And don't tell me you will, 'cause I won't believe you. ;o)
The danger to you is, you won't see the damage happening until it has already become so serious that you'll be in for multiple thousands of bucks to repair it. By the time the wallpaper on the inside of the house starts to peel off, the framing and gyprock are already in bad shape, and the part of the wall frame that gets hit the hardest is, naturally, the sole plate where all the water drooling down through the wall eventually comes to rest.
I've changed out a few sole plates; it involves jacking up the whole house. You don't wanna go there, trust me on this one....
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Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
The last product you mentioned planning to use was the McElroy metal snap 90. That is what I was referring to as ugly and not appropriate for this situation. It's a great product in some places and buildings, but not for yours as shown.When did you change opinion to this dektek? I didn't see that link.
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"At least he is in a dry climate, so it won't leak too often."
-- Piffin --
LOL!
Maybe I should invest in a bilge pump. :-)
P.S. - I was going to put rain gutters on the existing roof, something that is not currently there. It would be done to help control/redirect some of the water coming off the existing roof.
Believeit or not, most original contruction houses out here (like mine) do not have rain gutters.
Edited 10/3/2009 4:27 pm ET by Mike_Mills
See my response to Speedy.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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Sphere, sounds good to me. I did cut away and rmove some of the stucco under one eave so I could attach the ledger board directly to the house framing (wood-to-wood). I have diamond blades for my angle grinder and my circular saw.
The grinder is lighter and smaller and easy to wield. The saw is heavier but can be set to a copntrolled depth. Using a saw guide and a skilled hand can result in a nice straight cut line.
We do it all the time, run up a board on the roof to do a dormer side with a circ saw, grinder for finesse or tight places.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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imma stay owt a thissun.copper p0rn
I shuldda.
Hey, no go on the side gig in the morning, my 650.00 bucks made the owner of a 30 million $ Hotel get antsy. Go figga. So I don't need the template stuff. Thanks for the offer.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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No ya don't either have to tear off stucco. Ya take your angle grinder and a diamond blade and kerf the stucco to recieve a small ( 1/2") lip on the counter flashing, AFTER you run your roof material up the wall an inch or 2.
That counter then gets geoceled into that groove.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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There's all sorts of things going on here the OP isn't getting right. He's already cut the stucco to put on his ledger; if he was gonna gook the 'flashing' to the wall, he should have just bolted the ledger directly to the stucco to preserve as much of the existing envelope as possible.
Now that he's already got it cut, any water that gets behind failed goop holding the flashing to the wall surface is going to leak onto the ledger and weep in behind the stucco to do damage further down inside the wall.
And you know that all goop eventually fails. And you also know that given the tight space in which this flashing will be installed, he's not gonna re-do it every coupla years...even if that were possible without ripping it off and replacing it.
Man, I see shed roofs tucked in tight under eaves on cottages up here all the time. They're built one of two ways: either as part of the original construction, in which case they are usually flashed correctly because they were built before the siding and upper roof went on; or as HO- or bandit-built add-ons, in which case they are most often not flashed at all, or 'surface' flashed with goo and coil.
The second sort of construction provides me with an opportunity to explain to the HO why the sole plate of the house wall below that porch roof is now rotting and the wallpaper in his kitchen is coming off.
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
You ever try to remove a Geocel'd counter flash? It DON'T fail, at least not for 50 yrs.
I'd say y'all are over reacting.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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I'd say y'all are over reacting.
Every man has his specialty....
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
Edited 10/3/2009 5:23 pm ET by Dinosaur
I say how is ANYBODY going to do any kind of decent geocel job or any other flashing in a 4" space?
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Here is how I do it. I lay on the roof and reach under with my caulking gun and nozzle the geo into the joint of the flashing and the stucco. Then I lick my finger and tool it smooth and into said 1/16" gap.
Then I wipe my finger on my tool bag or my pants knee and get off the roof.
Elapsed time, 6 minutes. Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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now - how do you install the flashing up in under there, wise guy?;)I think I found that product, but not spelled the way he diod, so I'm not sure. If so, it is similar to what I recommended way back in post #8, but he kept talking metal all the way thru, then suddenly he is talking this stuff.http://www.dec-tec.com/products_membranes.cfm
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Well, I take a 36" sleeve, so unless its a 3' or more overhang, I just reach in and do it.
I also made a "pea shooter" outta 1/2" I.D. Steel and 1/2" O.D. Steel rod, I can drive roofing nails in places I can't reach easy.
If he was using metal roofing, you just flatten it and turn it up the wall, then conterflash as usual. Membrane gets seam caulk on the edge and counter too.
I can't see what the issue is for you guys. I'd say the worst thing is the leaves that blow under there need to be blown out yearly.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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If he was using metal roofing, you just flatten it and turn it up the wall,
Can't really do that with roll formed steel.copper p0rn
I could if I set my mind to it I betcha..LOLSpheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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It'll bend, but it's hard to make leak proof. Lots of caulk.copper p0rn
I know, and I've cussed a blue streak tearing out old Geocel, I'd rather have a root canal.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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You are correct, I was referring to Dec-tec.com
I do want the metal roofing but I don't yet have a way to make that work.
I mentioned Dectec because it does seem like it will work. With it, there are ways to address all the difficulties of this project - installation, wall flashings, corner flashing, drip edge. I think all the membrane roofing systems would work for me - EPDM, TPO, etc.
One thing I liked about Dectec was that they took the time to show me all the important aspects of an installation. In that way, I feel fairly confident the product will work in my application. There were other products that had similar information but it was never so detailed. Another thing I liked was the installer is "only" 100 miles away.
If I seem to be switching back and forth it is because I have not yet made up my mind as to which material will be best, overall. Having this online discussion is intended as part of the vetting process for the various options.
If you don't mind, can you tell me what part of the county you guys are in.
Edited 10/3/2009 8:52 pm ET by Mike_Mills
LOL. You tell us, we'll tell you.
To fill in your profile, click the 'Update Profile' link in the upper left hand corner of the FHB banner at the top of the screen.
Piffin's in Maine; I'm in Quebec, and Sphere is in Kaintucky or Tenneesse or one o' dem southren climes. They all sound the same to us damned northerners.
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
I'm in southern California.
I asked because I've lived in many different places. Building methods and materials vary widely.
In the east and up north it gets really cold and you get snow (temperature cycling and snow loads).
In the south east, it is hot and humid with hurricanes and tornadoes (wind loads).
I get none of that. I live close to the beach. I get mild weather all year long. It is never as hot and never as cold as the rest of southern California. We have about three months a year during which it might rain. Other than that, it is entirely unlikely to rain. We don't get hurricanes (or typhoons). I never snows. We do occasionally get a good down pour. That's about it.
Did I forget to mention earthquakes?
Edited 10/4/2009 1:41 pm ET by Mike_Mills
Well, enjoy that climate while it lasts. ;p)
Me, this time of year I'm getting in my firewood and looking around for my skis....
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
he just gets one version of mother nature is out to get me after another...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
Can't really do that with roll formed steel.
I thot U was stayin' outer dissun?
;o)
But yer right as usual....
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
flatten the metal?You haven't looked at the profile of the kind he was talking about, nor the required details. Yeah, some metal roof can be done that way, but not this stuff.
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Nope, didn't look at the profile. But there is always a way to get it done so it don't leak. even if it means getting the OEM supplied parts.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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Yeah, there is. My whole point was that there is an easier and better way - trying to talk him OUT of using this metal product, then I find that while I am arguing with the guy, he is already deciding and talking back to membrane without telling me. How do I argue with somebody that agreed with me but didn't tell me so?
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Good point, I hope whatever he does works out.
I just know it can be done properly with almost any of the mentioned options. Plain as that. may not be as easy, but it can be done.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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Yes, it CAN, but the title asked what is best
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I still don't see the word BEST in the title, mine says "Roofing Material Options"
And Best is subjective, at .....best.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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right you areNow I'd best quit while you're a head.
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I have been fairly clear all along that this thread is about finding roofing material OPTIONS. The discussion about installation details is educational for me and that information will be used when I do make the decision on which way to go.
I started with a bias towards metal roofing. As I've studied it, it has become clear to me that it will be fairly difficult to make this work; not impossible but difficult.
I have been studying the various membrane roofing options presented. I now understand why so many shed roofs are covered with a membrane. What I really do not want is an asphalt roof, so I am looking for a more attractive (appearance) version of a membrane for the roof. That is why I pointed to DecTec.
You guys have been a lot of help. Thanks for that.
Edited 10/4/2009 1:42 pm ET by Mike_Mills
The Dec-tec/Kemper systems look exactly like the Seal-o-Flex and Inland systems I've used. Both are super easy to apply, and if you do it right, they'll take care of many of your flashing issues. I'm pretty sure Mule-Hide(?) makes a similar system as well. Your roofing supply should have at least one manufacturer of the stuff... Definitely get it in white if possible, I can barely see when up on my roof because the white Seal-O-flex is so reflective.Z
Why wait until later when the answer might be "tear it apart and do it again - right" instead of just researching the best way to get this done first off.Believe me, I am not trying to harass you or beat you up, but I have done hundreds if not thousands of roofs, and have repaired a LOT of DIY solutions like this after the fact.I'm not even saying it can't be done your way, just that you are making your work harder to do successfully.
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I recently put on a low slope roof and I used corrugated metal.
I chose galvanized steel for a modern rugged look.
The roof has ice and water shield under it.
All the seems and flashing has sealant under them.
In some critical areas and I have a high quality sealant on top of seams as well.
The roof is bullet proof as far I'm concerned. "There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves."Will Rogers
Nice job!
I like the work you did on the flashings up against the house. How were they attached to the brick?
Tell me about the fasteners holding down the corregated sheet metal roofing. What do they screw into?
There is 1/2" osb on top of the rafters.
Then there is a layer of ice and water shield.
Then the steel roof.
The roof goes on one part overlapping another with every lap pitched down slope.
On low sloped roofs the roofing supplier recommends sealing all the laps with a thick ( heavy 1/8" ) peel and stick tape.
I also live in snow country so ice dams could back up. So it had to be sealed pretty well.
My area is considered a high wind area so they recommended using more screws.
They are a self tapping screw with a washer and a seal under the washer.
I placed almost all the screws on the tops of the pieces and not in the bottoms of troughs. I don't like the idea of the screws sitting in water even if they have seals.
You can see the screws I used to hold the flashing against the bick. Or is that counter flashing? I can never keep them straight.
"There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves."Will Rogers
Edited 10/4/2009 7:52 pm by popawheelie
Not bad for an old man.;)The flashing you have tucked and caulked into the brick is the counter-flashing. What is under that and turned out onto the corrugated is base flashing, in this case a base headwall flashing.
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Thanks Piffin. You and others here helped.
"There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves."Will Rogers
Edited 10/4/2009 10:07 pm by popawheelie
Very nice. Pat yerself onna back.
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
Looks good. Nice job.
Is the flashing imbedded in the grout or just "glued and screwed"?
I took a diamond blade in my grinder or my circular saw and cut a kerf in the grout before I stuck the counter flashing in it.
"There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves."Will Rogers
At $5K you could do this: http://www.kemper-system.com/us/ - (fiberglas) we have it on a 150 SF walkable roof deck.
Or, GAF Ruberoid comes in white - good product. http://www.gaf.com/general/GafMain.asp?Silo=COMM&WS=GAF
Or TPO as mentioned.
Jeff
Edited 9/29/2009 9:48 pm ET by Jeff_Clarke