The cantilevered section has a roof about 50sf. There is about 6″ of clearance between that roof and the concrete deck above. The guys applying the synth stucco on the sides were _supposed_ to apply the roofing (recycled rubber roofing–a liquid that goes over a polyester scrim) while they had the scaffold up. But it turns out they only applied it to the outer 8″ or so. I don’t have a way to get them back here, so it’s mine to fix. The roof deck is PT ply that’s been coated with a petroleum-based primer. The access is awkward as hell, and I can’t reach to the middle. So options like pouring on the base coat and unrolling the scrim w/ only 6″ of working room seem beyond my reach. There’s cooper flashing around the edge, making a bit of a lip, so when water drips onto the roof, it tends to pool there and find it’s way through the gaps in the ply. The porch above protects it 95%, but out of a 1″ rain, we’ll get a few drizzles of water sneaking through the cracks and down the inside drywall.
So, I’d like to find a product I could pump(?) up there to the thickness of at least the copper edge–1/4″ or 3/8″ would certainly do the trick–that would cure as a waterproofing covering. I just gotta get something that will make the water roll off, rather than sit there or find gaps in plywood. I like the liquid rubber roofing, but it’s too thick to easily get up there, and it won’t easily build up to that thickness. Any ideas (and blue tarp doesn’t count)?
Thanks. Jim
Replies
Forget the roof, man, I want to see more pictures of that house! (would you consider a green tarp?)
http://www.monolithicdome.com/gallery/homes/kaslik/index.html for pix from last Oct. http://www.cloudhidden.org for construction photos and renderings of other domes to be constructed in the next year or so.
Look for a product called Chemlink One Part Sealer/28 ounce tube pourable sealer.
You will need to look for this at a pretty decent roofing supply house,not a lumber yard. It is about $12/tube but maybe larger containers are possible. It's an "almost liquid" that moisture cures. It will skin over in several hours but may take as long as a month to fully cure.
I used a couple of tubes of this stuff on a project about 6 weeks ago. I let it cure for about 72 hours and since that time has been full submerged under about 15 gallons of water without leaking a drop.
Cool, thanks!
12$ a tube?
KaChing!!
I was going to reccomend a similar or perhaps the same product but I figured it would be way to expensive for enough to cover that much roof. also I forgot the name of the stuff!
T
Do not try this at home!
I am a trained professional!
Edited 7/16/2002 9:08:17 PM ET by Mr T
Thanks, Jim, that's quite a place. Have you already tired of telling about it? Like construction details? Rebar? Forms?
Thanks. Never get tired of talking, period! Doesn't matter what about! It reminds me of tradeshows in my computer biz days. 8 straight hrs of demos 4 straight days. No breaks for ANYTHING. Guaranteed to lose my voice, but people bought product out of sympathy!!!! If you have questions about rebar or anything in these structures, I'll try to answer. I have a thread in Photo Gallery on the building of a new (and smaller) one, so y'all can see it step by step. Maybe I can't popularize them alone, but at least I can de-mystify them. Johnny Appleseed planted one seed at a time...
Must apologize in advance for thinking differently than most, but is it possible to enclose the area completely so the water can not get to the ply on the roof. If that is a no go, how about using a paint roller on a long extension stick to spread multiple coats of lap cement or some similar goop. It would be messy, but should be drywall repair as a alternative, I would be doing something quick I think. Sure does look cool though and apparently you can think outside of a box!!
Dan
The beams supporting the porch are lower than the roof is high, making rollers on long poles a pain to maneuver (sp?). But that is my fallback (with the rubber roofing, since I have some onsite) if I don't find a better way. It was one of those design elements where the builder wants to wring the neck of the designer. As I was both, you see my dilemma. <G> But that's why I did my own house first, and I'd have a better solution from the get-go if this arrangement were to be repeated on another house.
Just a qucik guess off the top of my head how about either a spray or pour polyurethane foam??? I not a roofing guy (we use it for creating sculptural shapes) but I know the stuff we have used was intended and designed as a roofing product.
I too would like to see the rest of what ya have going on there, more photos please.
Profit is like oxygen,
food, water, and blood for the body; they are
not the point of life, but without
them there is no life. Jim Collins
& Jerry PorasBuilt to Last
If I had to do the roof all over, I'd do what a new foamer friend suggested, which is build it on the ground out of polyurethane and lift it in place. But there's no getting a good spray of layer of foam in there now and then getting the UV protectant layer over it. The 6" I had was barely enough to nail the ply.
How about one fo those shingle colored tarps somebody around here was trying to sell ???
Keys in ignition, car left unlocked, purse left on dashboard. Rottweiler on the back seat.
A long while back there were some discussions about foundation or basement wall waterproofing techniques. We don't have basements here in Florida but I called one of the spray-on truck bed liner companies and asked if the product would work on concrete block walls. He said he had never thought about using the product in that manner but he thought it might work. Could be you could reach a spray wand into a six-inch space and coat the entire area to whatever thickness you need.
There is also a PVC or plastic? self-leveling product that is used for roller rink floors.
This link may give you some ideas:
http://www.armacoatings.com/