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I’ve got to shingle a roof with several dormers. Any hints on how to ensure the shingles line up above the top of the dormers!! In fact, any info ie. valleys, step flashing would be great!! A. Ball
PArry Sound , Ontario , Canada
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Just a quick add on to my previous message!!
I've seen a great deal of debate over whether
its better to shingle accross a roof or up a roof!
Any Downloads would be appreciated! A.B.
*What kind of shingles?
*Most of us use the lines that are printed on the tar paper, which should keep you square to the rest of the roof, if laid out right. You can also layout the elevations and chalk line the tops of courses. Line them up with chalk lines. I have also seen roofers use a 1x4. I go bottom up. Drip edge, gutters, ice and water shield, then tar paper then shingles.Sounds like you are new to roofing. Consider subing it out at your skill level. You can't afford to re-do a roof. Roofers are good, and usually cheap. At least get some books and texts.
*I've run 'm with chalk lines that indicate the top of the shingles snapped on the felt but gave that up years ago because the shingles got to be so inconsistant in size, varying by 3/4" from one bundle to the next. Then I went to using gauge on the roofing hatchet, but both guys on each side of the dormer need to use the same model gauge consistantly. You can also snap a chalk line above the dormers, parrallel to the ridge and the eaves, to use for a reference, checking about every three feet.You have so many other questions, it seems that this is your first or second roof and that you would benefit from a good book from FH tauton or JLC
*I did a complicated roof this summer. Dormers, a porch ridge coming in at the bottom, the rakes had steps in them, chimney, etc., etc. So much going on I couldn't even get a tape across it anywhere. Since I like how those cut valleys look, I shingled the dormers first, then went from the dormer eaves up to the ridge. Then went back down and started at the bottom. Metal valleys might have been easier. Biggest problem was that I hate those architectural shingles and used 3 tab fiberglass. That meant a LOT of headscratching in 100 degree heat making sure that those damn tab lines lined up everywhere- above dormers, below and in between dormers working by myself on 12-12 slope and crawling up and down 10,000 times. Sacrificed a few shingles and spent several hundred dollars on ice and water shield. If I'd used those architectural shingles, I could have just whacked to length and been done with it. Got a damn nice looking roof, though.
*Lonecat,I did my roof which sounds nearly identical to yours. I did go with metal valleys which I think looks better than any of the other styles. The problem I had was at the top of the dormer where its ridge ties into the main roof. That metal was a real bear to get formed. It was mid summer, my shingles (and metal valley) were black. Boy that was fun!It took me quite a while to roof that house. Andrew,My advice: If you are going to do it basically by yourself (occasional help from friends), hire it out. You will put in a lot more time than you had hoped to. And... if you can't get the shingles delivered to the top of the roof, you are going to kill yourself carrying them up.As far as keeping the rows lined up from one side of the dormer to the other: Measure down from the ridge and snap lines, recheck every four or five rows. Spend the extra time up front snapping lines.Good Luck
*Ditto what Al said and also when chalking, make a more permanent mark with a paint marker or crayon at the measuring points so the chalk can be refreshed when it gets washed or rubbed off instead of having to remeasure twice a day. The time spent chalking is well worth the effort and the time spent figuring is worth 10x it.
*sTANDARD THREE TABS FROM i.k.o.
*Andrew, O.K., let's see, you said 3 tab shingles. On the back of the bundle there will be instructions. Read it. Usually, they are installed in 5" increments. Install first row. Measure up to the top of the shingle row on the dormer you want to intersect. To line up nicely you want that dimension to be divisible by 5. If not, you can "cheat" the rows closer in order for the next higher row to line up. Do you use inches up there in Ontario?
*IKO's are metric sizing
*just wondering....is this the Andrew Ball who went to Port Moody High....long shot, but ....is it?
*Refer to the book "Measuring, Marking, and Layout" by John Carroll and published by the Taunton Press. There is a whole chapter on laying out roofing.
*SORRY PHIL, bORN AND RAISED IN THE GOOD OL' PARRY SOUND!hOME OF bOBBY oRR
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I've got to shingle a roof with several dormers. Any hints on how to ensure the shingles line up above the top of the dormers!! In fact, any info ie. valleys, step flashing would be great!! A. Ball
PArry Sound , Ontario , Canada