FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter Instagram Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Roots in the Drain Tile

kuffelcreek | Posted in General Discussion on February 15, 2007 03:07am

I have a site with a 24″ retaining wall that has a drain system behind it consisting of a 6″ preforated pipe in a geosock embedded in a 24″ base of gravel that drains into a sump pit.  The preforations on the pipe are facing down.

Lots of water is seeping up under the wall and not much was draining out of the 6″ pipe into the pit.  in fact, more water is seeping into the pit through seams in the enclosure wall than is coming in through the pipe. 

There’s a tree next to the line between the wall and the pit, so I figured there were lots of roots.  We camera’d the line and sure enough, it had roots in the vacinity of the tree.

We rootered the line and then sent a corbin through and camera’d it a second time.  The line is nice and clear now, but you still see stubble of roots filling a lot of the drain holes and not a whole lot more water is coming out of the pipe.  We’re pulling the tree out so it won’t keep clogging the pipe, but is the drain line a lost cause?  Am I going to have to dig up the pipe and rock and replace the whole thing?

Groundwater is rare here in Southern California and we don’t have a lot of experience in this stuff, so please stifle the snickers…

Thanks

Reply

Replies

  1. misfit | Feb 15, 2007 03:52am | #1

    The holes should have been facing up so that the pipe will hold/carry the water to it's intended discharge point.

    1. dovetail97128 | Feb 15, 2007 04:16am | #2

      Not true.
      The holes (if located on one side of pipe) should face down so that the rising water table flows into the pipe . Most drain pipe used for this purpose have several rows of inlets or are perfed all the way around.
      My guess is that the filter wrap is plugged with very fine sediment.
      What the soil type at Your laocation can make a big difference.
      It is also possible that the bottom of the wall is below the level of the pipe.. Water will always take the easiest path.
      I have seen gophers dig a tunnel under a drain pipe and wall and all the water flows out of their hole. Now just how do cylindrical objects have sides anyway ??

      1. misfit | Feb 15, 2007 04:45am | #3

        Might be regional differences, but from what I've seen and experienced in the northeast, the partialy perforated drain pipe behind a retaining wall allows the surface water a place to collect and be carried away. It enters from the top of the pipe, which is where the holes should be. It's purpose isn't to control high water tables...different animal. It's to control hydraulic pressure from blowing out the wall. The fully perforated pipe is usually used(around here) for curtain drains. I do agree with the other points you mention and they could also contribute to the problem. The OP said ground water wasn't an issue, so I assume this is from excessive surface runoff...CA gets some serious monsoons at times.

        1. User avater
          SamT | Feb 15, 2007 04:57am | #4

          Nope. Holes on bottom. He has it buried in gravel and if the holes were on top it would only carry away the water that had risen to the top of the pipe leaving a 4" deep pool of water to be absorbed by the already saturated soil.

          If you put the holes on top and you want the tile to effeciently carry all the water away, you must find a way to channel all the water directly to the holes. Any water that didn't fall into the holes would run into the soil next to the tile.

          Don't think of drain tile as a pipe that isn't supposed to allow any water to spill out. Think of it as a tunnel thru the soil to open air or a drain pit.SamT

          Anyone who doesn't take truth seriously in small matters cannot be trusted in large ones either. [Einstein] Tks, BossHogg.

          1. misfit | Feb 15, 2007 05:40am | #5

            Interesting to say the least. Let me get back to you on this one. I'd like to pay a visit to someone who builds retaing walls. He puts the holes facing up and told me if they are facing down, it is no different than just using gravel without the pipe. I use to think the way you and dove explained it was correct, until I saw several different walls being built, including one comercial job that the wall was about 30' high.

          2. dovetail97128 | Feb 15, 2007 05:51am | #6

            One thing that does have to happen is that the pipe has to be laying on a thin gravel bed and be surrounded by gravel. Sam's description of how it works is correct.
            Wouldn't be the first time the "Pro's" on constrution sites did things wrong. Next time ask them just how they intend the water to find it's way into the holes.

          3. misfit | Feb 15, 2007 06:06am | #8

            No doubt, I'll be sure to ask.

          4. misfit | Feb 15, 2007 06:00am | #7

            I stand corrected, at least based on a simple search...."Perforations in smooth wall drain pipe and coextruded dual wall corrugated pipe are small diameter holes located in rows on one side of the pipe which should always face downward to prevent soil from infiltrating the pipe." Copied from http://www.capbrick.com/drain_data.htmI know what I saw and what I was told, so next step is to see what this guy who told me has to say. The only question I still have Sam is would its still matter if the whole drain bed is wrapped in fabric? IIRC, the comercial job had some type of fabric laid out, then a bed of clean stone, next the solid pipe with downfacing holes, another layer of clean stone and then all wrapped up like a Tortia.

          5. dovetail97128 | Feb 15, 2007 06:07am | #9

            Shouldn't matter IMO. The fabric is to keep "fines" and dirt put of the pipe, yet allow passage of water.
            In my experience it doesn't always work real well. I have dug up drains wrapped in filter fabric that were laying in a gravel filled trench with standing water. The fabric had actually become plugged from the fine clay we have here. Water was getting through , but at a very reduced rate.
            Sam knows more than I do about filter fabric though.

          6. User avater
            SamT | Feb 15, 2007 06:34am | #10

            Sam knows more than I do about filter fabric though.

            I wish!

            I use the stuff on the basis that it is going to clog with fines and try to use as large an area as possible.

            This last job, my FFILs' place, I put the fabric between the gravel and the soil and used a gravel bed that ran from footing to grade. I turned the fabric over the gravel about 2" from the top and laid a decorative layer of gravel over the the last flap of fabric.SamT

            Anyone who doesn't take truth seriously in small matters cannot be trusted in large ones either. [Einstein] Tks, BossHogg.

          7. kuffelcreek | Feb 15, 2007 07:14am | #11

            Sorry guys, I should have given more information.

            The drain system was designed and the plans stamped by a civil engineer, and it was inspected by a private inspector to be installed according to plans.  The soil is decomposed granite, which is why the water; the base of the retaining wall is practically bedrock, and the hillside above it is DG.  I believe the pipe is below the base of the retaining wall.

            What I am wondering is if the system has been irrepariably compromised by the roots that grew into the gravel and are probably surrounding the pipe.  One root that had gotten into the pipe was about 1" in diameter.  I really do need the system to work optimally, as I'm putting a modular building on a pad at the base of the retaining wall. 

            By the way, we do have drain systems that consist of gravel wrapped in geofabric and pipes that penetrate the retaining wall from it- we call them burrito drains.  I saw my last one at the bottom of a twelve foot retaining wall.

             

            Thanks again guys for all your help.

          8. dovetail97128 | Feb 15, 2007 07:48am | #12

            FWIW..
            I doubt the drain pipe has been seriously compromised . You now have it open so it should work.
            The tree roots also provide a drain way for water thru the soil so that alone should not be causing any problems either.
            Without knowing more I can't say anything for sure but given the soils composition isn't it possible that a root may have penetrated deep enough to allow a drainway that is actually allowing water to escape past the drain pipe? I deal with "weathered basalt" and it is amazing just how the water will find it's way thru the seemingly tight (to the eye) rock here.
            Also if the drain pipe wasn't laid with a continuous slope (no flat spots) what happens is the water simply finds the lowest escapable point and exits the pipe.

        2. precision | Feb 15, 2007 08:16am | #13

          I will agree with dovetail in all the courses I have taken we have always been told to put the holes down for the same reason dovetail explained. because if you the holes up you will have a level of water the height of the pipe befor it can actually get in the pipe and be carried away.

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Balancing Density and Privacy in Los Angeles

Four 2200-sq.-ft. detached homes provide flexible open-plan housing on this Los Angeles block.

Featured Video

SawStop's Portable Tablesaw is Bigger and Better Than Before

The 10-in. Jobsite Saw PRO has a wider table, a new dust-control port, and a more versatile fence, along with the same reliable safety mechanism included in all SawStop tablesaws.

Related Stories

  • Podcast 551: Power Tool Batteries, Building as a Third Career, and High DIY
  • Podcast 551: Members-only Aftershow—Badly-Built Homes
  • Podcast 550: PRO TALK With Carpentry Program Instructor Sandy Thistle and Graduate David Abreu
  • Podcast 549: Energy Upgrades, Chimney Inspections, and Questions About a Home You Might Buy

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

BOOKS, DVDs, & MERCH

Shop the Store
  • 2022 Fine Homebuilding Archive
    Buy Now
  • Code Check Building 4th Edition
    Buy Now
  • 2023 Tool Guide
    Buy Now
  • Pretty Good House
    Buy Now
  • Shop the Store

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 314 - April/May 2023
    • 7 Options for Countertops
    • Tool Test: Wood-Boring Bits
    • Critical Details for Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 313 - Feb/March 2023
    • Practical System for a Seismic Retrofit
    • Fine Homebuilding Issue #313 Online Highlights
    • Practical System for a Seismic Retrofit
  • Issue 312 - Dec 2022/Jan 2023
    • Tool Test: Cordless Tablesaws
    • Gray-Water System for a Sustainable Home
    • Insulate a Cape Roof to Avoid Ice Dams
  • Issue 311 - November 2022
    • 7 Steps to a Perfect Exterior Paint Job
    • Options for Smarter Home-Energy Tracking
    • The Fine Homebuilding Interview: James Metoyer
  • Issue 310 - October 2022
    • Choosing a Tile-Leveling System
    • Choosing Between HRVs and ERVs
    • Custom Built-in Cabinets Made Easy

Fine Homebuilding

Follow

  • twitter
  • facebook
  • instagram
  • pinterest

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences

Taunton Network

  • Green Building Advisor
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Fine Gardening
  • Threads
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Copyright
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2023 The Taunton Press, Inc. All rights reserved.

X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Shop the Store

  • Books
  • DVDs
  • Taunton Workshops

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • twitter
  • facebook
  • instagram
  • pinterest

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in