I’ve got to cut off and remove about 10′ long section of wood flush with the wall. It’s 3/4″ T&G old flooring, cutting across the grain. What would be the best tool to do this?
I have a fein supercut, but I think that I would kill about 4 blades doing that, costing me about a $100. Or is there a long lasting blade for it that I’ve never had?
I have a Sawsall, but it is tough to do a continous plunge cut with, especially flush with something.
I have routers, and a dewalt cutoff tool, and a die grinder, none of which will cut flush.
I saw an attachment for the Roto-zip that turns it into a flush cutter, bought it, and hoped that I could make it fit my cutoff tool or die grinder. It won’t fit.
So…
1) Does this flush cut attachment work well enough, or is it just another useless gadget?
2) Should I get a Roto-zip? I never really needed one since most of it’s potential functions, I already have a better tool for. And, most of what I’ve heard from people that have them is that they burn out with minimal use.
3) Should I return the flush cut attachment and get something else? or just use the sawsall?
3) If you think that getting a roto-zip is worthwhile, which kit should I get? Or just the bare tool to use with this one attachment?
4) Should I design and build a wooden guide so that I can use the roto zip blade alone on my die grinder or cutout tool.
Thanks for any advice in this.
Replies
I used to have a Dremel that burnt out. I replaced it with a Sears knock off rotozip. I do lots of different things with it, and never felt that it was lacking in any way.
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
If your hair looks funny, it's because God likes to scratch his nuts. You nut, you.
Depends on how nice a result you need. I often use a rotozip with the wood cutting bits to cut up close. The stright bits are about $1 each. the cut will be at a slight angle but it will work.
Why are you cutting floor this close? If your replacing the the old "hardwood" there is a chance once you have cut close to the wall you can pull out the short bits from under the baseboard.
In response to the why am I cutting this close. There is a newer wall built on top of the floor, so I know that it is not going to pull out from under it. I'd leave it, but it is not in good enough shape for subfloor. Also, I don't want to build it up an inch or more higher than the rest of the house.When I mentioned the rotozip, I hadn't meant with the regular spiral bits. I could do it that way with my existing rotary tools. I think that I would be getting more wood burning than cutting that way though. What I meant was a flush cutting attachment for a special offset circular saw blade that fits onto a rotozip.
Does it have to be perfectly flush?I'm wondering if you could remove the base board, then cut it (imperfectly) with a sawzall. Once the new floor was down the baseboard would cover up the unfinished edge, as well as a few nicks in the wall.
Do Roman doctors refer to an IV as a "4" ???
Yea, the sawzall, has been my backup plan. An uneven edge would be OK as it will get covered. It could be a pain though if the new floor doesn't quite match the old ones height. Then the baseboard might need to be modified to sit flush with the new floor.reciprocating types of blades aren't my favorite things for plunge cuts, especially when the entire cut is just a plunge and not through at all.
I wonder if you could take a jamb saw, turn it on edge, and run it across there?
Q: What is the punishment for bigamy?
A: Two mothers-in-law.
That's the kind of tool that I was thinking of, but I couldn't think of the name. That is pretty much what the attachment for the rotozip turns it into.Any advice on what to look for in a jamb saw if I buy one? What about a toe kick saw? I've never used either.
What about a biscuit joiner, would that work for you?Martin
I've seen that Roto-Zip attachment. Looks neat, but I'm not sure how much "oomph" it would have. If you do get it, let us know how it works.
I'M NOT RECOMMENDING THIS, but here's what I have done in a similar situation. I dug out "The Scarriest Tool in the Shop" -- the Lancelot. Basically, a chain saw that fits on a right angle grinder. Rip out the quarter round/shoe or base -- whatever you've got, put on a face shield, and have at it. It'll take about 30 seconds and you're done. Count your fingers, let out the breath you've been holding, and clean up the bushel or so of woodchips you just made. ;-)
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
from what i understand ,you just need it cut and then your going to run new floor up to it. if thats the case i couldn't find any thing to work,it's time to fire up the chainsaw,your going to waste a chain,but what the heck they are 20.00.i cut up more stuff inside a house than my chainsaw ever cuts outside. larry
if a man speaks in the forest,and there's not a woman to hear him,is he still wrong?
In my area I have gone to a rental store and rented a flush cutting saw that is make to cut flush with the face of the toe kick on cabinets. It should also work with cutting along a regular wall.
The Rotozip Zipmate attachment for flush cutting is $50 bucks from Amazon and I seem to remember it was about $69 from the big box. That would go a long ways towards the cost of blades for the Fein. I have gotten pretty good mileage out of my Fein woodcutting blades - except when I hit a nail, that is. Not exactly the fastest cutting, however.
Stanley makes a flush cut handsaw for under $15 - you could get a good workout as well as saving some bucks... I think there has been mentioned in the past a power flush cut saw for toe kicks that runs about $200.
Are you referring to this:
http://www.amazon.com/Rotozip-ZM3-RotoZip-Zipmate-Attachment/dp/B000BQMWRW/ref=pd_bbs_sr_7/102-8001625-8416144?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1192785081&sr=8-7
View Image
I think a right-angle grinder would have more power. In fact, when I first saw this thread, I thought of a right-angle ginder, but I don't know where to get a blade. Can you get a wood-cutting blade for the Rotozip?
Edited 10/19/2007 5:18 am ET by DonCanDo
It actually goes on the end of that part. It looks like a mini-circular saw, with adjustable shoe for depth of cut. It is open on one side so the blade will go right up to the wall.
Rent a toe-kick saw from a flooring place. I believe it will go flush to the wall. Basically a drill motor with a circular blade at the front.
It is possible that it might not go completely flush though.
Harbor freight sells those now.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
If your hair looks funny, it's because God likes to scratch his nuts. You nut, you.
Aha: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94626
That's good to know, thanks. The local rental places never even heard of a toe kick saw. The nearest place that had one (and only one) wanted something like $40/day, but here I can buy one (for occasional use, mind you) for a mere $70.
If its not gonna show, I'd make that cut with a chain saw in a heartbeat. Maybe put ya a mark on the end of your saw bar as a depth index and cut away.
Like you said, I would'nt want to burn up 100.00 worth of blades in a multi master for something thats gonna be hidden when I was done.
As a word of caution, homeowners get nervous when ya break out a chainsaw in the house so be dang sure you can use one reasonably accurate before you try this:)
Oh, and only use it when you have exhausted all conventional methods, which it sounds like you have.
dug
How about the Bosch flush-cut saw? I used to use mine all the time, mainly for cutting casing when install wainscoting, until I got the Fein multi-master. You are right, a great tool but big bucks for the blades.Bosch flush-cut, well worth the $99 from Amazon (thats probably the price of 3 Fein blades!:http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1640VS-Finecut-Power-Handsaw/dp/B00004SUP4/ref=pd_bbs_1/102-6700517-9184928?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1192835161&sr=8-1Alan S
I've got one of those also, but I dont know that I'd want to plunge cut 10' of 3/4'' thick floor board with it tho I suppose it would prab'ly do it.....slowly. :)
I can think of very few situations where a chainsaw is the right tool for remodeling, but this might be one of them. I keep mine on the trailer at all times just for stuff like this.
I'm sure there are many ways to make this cut, but sometimes ya gotta factor in time when your doing it with a goal of turning a profit.
Hope this does'nt make me sound like a hack. :)
dug
Thank you all for your ideas.I just got it done, and it was pretty easy with the chainsaw. Thanks Larry and Dug for bringing that one up. I wouldn't have thought of it on my own. There was no noticeable wear to the chain either. Saved me a bunch of money and time. This was my first time to use the chainsaw inside the house. Now I'm feeling awfully manly.Tyler.
sandalboy, Don't know which you used but I often found myself using my small electric chainsaw during remodels. Gas only rarely. For the price of a cheap electric you can't go wrong.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
Used a large electric chainsaw. It's been good enough for cutting down medium size trees, so I still don't own a gas chainsaw.
Call me old school, I dig out what I can with the saw and finish up with sharp chisel.