Rotted window sills, cool stained glass
ryder
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
Putting in some salvaged stained glass in a remodel I’m doing. I have a big 2′ x 8′ widndow with really cool trim (actually not trim but the actual window ), very dry rotted at the bottom, though not falling apart rotted.
Was going to farm out resetting the window but everyone looking at it says just use it as is because it’s so d@^% cool. I know I’ve read about products that you pour on to the wood to stop rot and strengthen, any in put on that and any other advice?
Replies
I've used Elmers, Minwax and Abatron wood hardners, and I can tell you, Abatron is by far the best of the bunch. Mix it longer than you think you have to, let it sit about 10 mins, and brush it on, let it soak in, and keep brushing till it won't take any more.
Even drilling a few holes to help get deep soak is helpful.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Hey thanks. Looking for that product locally.
I had to get it mail order, http://www.abatron.com the product is Liquid Wood Epoxy and they have a bondo like filler called Wood Epox. Comes in pints and quarts. they have a restorers kit that has both..I highly recommend it.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Can you show us a picture of the glasswork? Stained Glass was my profession for 25 years.
Also, consider having it encapsulated in an insulated unit.
I'll try to post, encapsulation would have required really dismantling the piece and my guy that does that thought it'd be a shame to lose the old patina'd charm of it, actually is active thought will never be opened due to placement. We will put safety glass on the out side to protect it from kids, branches etc.
trying to upload
Edited 2/7/2009 4:16 pm ET by ryder
oops need to shrink
Looks like a nice old piece. I can't see any buckling or bowing, so that's good. Are you using it whole with the original frame? That would be a plus, also.
This in all honesty is one of the other windows we are not using though very similar. Delivered the one she had payed for and then she found it was the wrong one. Took many pics at the store before it dawned on me to turn her's over and it was the right one. The inside is painted and she didn't realize that once you hold light to the glass there is a cool scene painted on it, thus the different color of the glass on side to the other.
picture attached
View ImageView Image "...craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit." - P. Korn
bakersfieldremodel.com
How'd you do that so fast
How'd you do that so fast
Easy - open image in new screen, save jpeg file to microsoft office picture manager, open file in MS paint, click "image stretch/skew", "stretch to 12 percent vertical, 12 percent horizontal, click "save". Go to BreakTime, post a message, click "attach files", browse for saved file, attach it - then preview, click the yellow map-tack, pull up the pic, right-click copy it, back click to my post, click "paste", then click "post". Got it?
View Image "...craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit." - P. Korn
bakersfieldremodel.com
Edited 2/7/2009 4:52 pm by Huck
I'm a huge fan of the epoxies for tending dry rot in special situations. Not only will it solve the problem in most situations, it will protect against future problems. If the wood is full of epoxy, it can't take on moisture. That isn't to say water wont run elsewhere, but you can hit other areas with a diluted Varithane mixture (about 25%, more for colder weather). Both will soak into the wood quite well. The epoxy dries by catalyst, but the urethane/polyurethane will have to gas off. No biggie.
Because you will be hiding everything under paint, or other layers of wood, it doesn't matter if you use interior or exterior on the Varithane type product, just don't waste time on the water based types. You need the deep penetration, which only the oil base type will give.
Do the epoxy first, let it dry, then apply your oil base on the perimeter areas. Put on as much as you can. As long as it soaks up, it's fair game. Sometimes that can be a lot, so you may want to give up after four or five applications.
If people did this to their wood on old wood windows, they'd make them almost bullet proof.
Edited 2/7/2009 5:36 pm ET by dejure
Gonna' print that up, thanks.
A quick correction: My post should have said "If the wood is full of epoxy, it can't take on moisture." rather than "can." A major typo.
FYI, you can go back and change anything by using the 'edit' button on the ottom of the post.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
That was taken care of, but wanted to give a heads up to an important typo. Thanks