I have a round tower about 50ft in circumfrence (radius about 8).
Currently replacing the [flat] facia, and the old lead drip edge is completely done for.
Plan is to place a 3/4 “kick out strip” around the circumfrence, then place the drip edge over that, so the water will fall into the wood gutters that I am restoring. the old design just had the lead drip edge nailed to the inside edge of the gutter, which looked messy, and caused rot.
Looking for suggestions on forming radius drip edge.
My first thought was copper- form it straight, then snip the top edge , set the radius, and solder the “tabs”.
Are there any other options or methods that should be considered?
Replies
form it straight, then snip the top edge , set the radius, and solder the "tabs".
You could do that. Or you could get a set of downspout crimpers and crimp the nailing flange to make it hit the radius you want in about 1/10 the time.
http://grantlogan.net/
It takes a big man to cry, but it takes a bigger man to laugh at that man. - J. Handey
Sure, make it easy!!!!!!!!! Well thought out.Let's not confuse the issue with facts!
Downspout crimpers, eh?
I have those! Keep it simple, stupid.
Suppose I could accomplish this about as well with aluminum?
Yes, I know the CU would look better...
Suppose I could accomplish this about as well with aluminum?
yuphttp://grantlogan.net/
It takes a big man to cry, but it takes a bigger man to laugh at that man. - J. Handey
Grant,Can you use the downspout crimpers on a piece of F5 drip edge? We have a flat roof coming up with a 7' radius (half round portico).Thanks.
Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
He may be tied up and you may be in need of a quick ans. so ..yeah.
I like the 3 finger style over the five finger, it doesn't make the crimps too tight together. I also over crimp a tad and rather straighten some then get a konk from forcing a too straight pc.
For that radius, you may have to space the crimps an inch or two apart to avoid making way too much bend.
Zat help any?Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt
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Yeah, I think that helps. I really need to just get a piece of drip edge and try, but I don't have any around here.I guess my concern was/is that I would only be able to crimp to the back side of the vertical leg and that this would be insufficient. If possible, I would like the "overhang" portion of the drip edge (the part of the horizontal section that will be visible from the ground) uncrimped and only crimp the portion that will be covered by EPDM. But I don't know if that is enough.Does that make any sense?
Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
Practice is the best I can give ya from where I sit.
Anything will bend or crimp, it's when ya need to stretch , you need some serious finesse and special tools.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt
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Wait, flat roof, I was envisioning a barrel. Duh, should waited for Grant, he reads better..LOL.
Um, I'd just snip the roof flat up to the crease, but that front horiz. O.H. Needs to be stretched, not shrunk. Unless ya snip it too , to allow that to open up as the back closes on it self.
If you crimp the face (vert) you can do a barrel. Anything else on the out board faces makes it bend into the wrong direction, unless your half round portico is concave.
You need a stretcher.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt
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OK, I just read your description and you're describing this:
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Most off the shelf drip edge of this type looks more like this:
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You'll have to smash that top fold closed to make it curve. The protrusion is usually only a half inch or so and you should be able to curve it to a 7' radius without boogering anything visible from the ground. copper p0rn
I should have just posted this earlier.This is what I'm trying to avoid:View ImageView ImageI don't like the existing drip edge for aesthetic or performance reasons.*edit- I'm inclined to use the F5 drip edge profile to give a modicum of protection to the wood fascia board that we will be installing. To match the existing structure, we will have a practically flush fascia to roof edge. My thinking is that the F5 gives a 1/2" or so, which is better than all of the water just running down the side of the fascia.
Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
Edited 9/10/2009 9:27 pm ET by JonBlakemore
We typically use the "L" shaped edge with membranes. There's no practicle reason for the forward extension of the drip edge used in your pictures. That's shingle drip edge. A little more length on the bottom flange would have been good in this instance.copper p0rn
Grant (and Duane),Thanks for you help. I will plan for the "L" drip edge if you think it's fine.
Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
Is this F5 drip edge?
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If so, yes, you can curve it by crimping the roof flange. You might want to try needle nose pliers rather than downspout crimpers if you're using it with a membrane. Give a twist every foot or so and then beat the crease flat on itself. If you try to beat the downspout crimpers tracks flat, it'll just straighten the piece back out. copper p0rn