I installed three Stanley pre-hung steel exterior doors last year, and now all of them are showing the same problem. On the hinge side, the gap is about 1/8″ wider at the top than the bottom, and this is causing the latch bolt to miss the strike plate. In other words, the doors will only latch if they’re pulled hard.
A shim on the bottom hinge will probably fix it, but is this typical?
Edited 1/6/2005 5:52 pm ET by TJK
Replies
A shim at the bottom is going to close up your strike side gap, if there is plenty, its ok, Id use a traced piece of press cardboard like on the back of a notepad for my first try.
Better than that ....
Pop back the top hinge from the frame, and lightly chisel, maybe by hand not a mallet the surface under the mortised area. Try to do it even across the full underneath. When you reattach the hinge it will draw the door up just enough to solve your problem. Before you take the top hinge back swing the door out of the way and put a small block under the door just to hold the weight until you are done your job.
Dont be discouraged, I have had the same problem with many door companies, and some of which are out of plumb from the factory.
-zen
Try putting a long (2-1/2") screw in the top hinge to pull it toward the stud
I always use and recommend the use of three (3) 2-1/2" to 3" hinge screws, used 2 at the top hinge, 1 at the middle.
Be sure to put them in the holes closer in toward the stud center.
Go to Gary Katz's site to see how to "crank" a hinge to alter its swage. There are tricks with wrenches and pins to change the offset (called swage or margin.)
Where is that site?
"I will never surrender or retreat. " Col. Wm. B. Travis, The Alamo, Feb. 1835
http://www.garymkatz.com/TrimTechniques/bendinghinges.htm
Thank you. I needed that.
"I will never surrender or retreat. " Col. Wm. B. Travis, The Alamo, Feb. 1835