Sanding really hard yellow pine trim
BryanSayer
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
We have removed the paint from the trim in one room, and now need to sand. We will need to sand fairly aggressively to remove scorch marks and left over paint.
This trim is yellow pine, installed in 1901. It is REALLY hard. Most of the trim is just flat stock, with some bead detail on the edge of the casings.
Any advice on sanding? I’ve got everything from belt sanders, through finishing sanders, including orbital, a sped-block, grinder attachments, and I even picked up the Warner PaintEater, which will take the 3M pads using the backer pad for the grinder. And a Multi-Master with the detail attachment.
Replies
Planer
A La Carte Government funding... the real democracy.
Learn to use a sharp scraper.
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
call some shops and find soebody with one of these:http://www.speedsander.com/Ya do know some of that paint is going to have lead in it, right?http://www.tvwsolar.com
I went down to the lobby
To make a small call out.
A pretty dancing girl was there,
And she began to shout,
"Go on back to see the gypsy.
He can move you from the rear,
Drive you from your fear,
Bring you through the mirror.
He did it in Las Vegas,
And he can do it here."
The trim is in place.I expect lead, though it is possible that this is milk paint. I'm still not sure what all this goop in it is.
<The trim is in place.>Whole different ballgame. Have you tried any citrus based strippers?
Long handled scrapers, dental picks, heat gun... although I imagine that's what caused the scorch marks? Tough row to hoe, Good luck.http://www.tvwsolar.com
I went down to the lobby
To make a small call out.
A pretty dancing girl was there,
And she began to shout,
"Go on back to see the gypsy.
He can move you from the rear,
Drive you from your fear,
Bring you through the mirror.
He did it in Las Vegas,
And he can do it here."
Now use a liquid remover to get off the rest of the paint parts. Then sand.
I'm cleaning up 100 year old heart pine flooring for an addition and I can tell you it is one difficult job just surface cleaning the wood. Sanding is out of the question - yellow pine is very resinous - it will load up a belt or disk quickly, regardless of the grits.
Planing is almost as bad - I do 10 boards then tear down the planer to clean the knives that are heavily encrusted with sap/resin. And I spray cooking oil (Pam) after every board.
I finally have a process - a heavy right angle grinder (not the little 4 inch kind) with a wire wheel brush - it knocks off any paint, loose particles, dirt. Then a light dressing with the thickness planner.
For mouldings, I would use a sharp scrapper - and have several backups as they will dull very quickly. But it is well worth it once you put some oil on the raw wood - the beautiful mellow orange glow makes it worthwhile!
Good Luck!
Scraper.
If you can't get and keep an edge, use glass. Cut bizcard size pc.s from scrap, and use the edge that you didn't score. when it dulls, cut it in half. Two new edges.
At most after that, hand rub with 220.
For the bead detail make a Scratch stock..basically like a marking gage , but a sharp pc. of steel in place of the pin, the steel ( old handsaw blade, filed to reverse) can be filed sq. and no fancy hook or burrs needed.
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Edited 1/12/2009 3:58 pm ET by Sphere
i'm not sure if the reference to a sharp scraper is too a card scraper , but when this has been mastered you'll be shaking your head .Asking why it took you so long,35132.1 http://forums.taunton.com/n/main.asp?qu=card+scraper&find=Search&webtag=fw-knots&ctx=search&cl=
Edited 1/12/2009 4:10 pm ET by alias