For those of you who have used a number of reciprocating saws, do you consider those with a 3/4 inch stroke to be too slow? if you do occationally use one with a 3/4 inch stroke, is it because it offers more control?
Thanks
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My saw is the basic Milwaukee with a 3/4" stroke. It does ok, and it's actually kind of helpful for some things. I cut out a lot of lath and plaster, and I think it's less likely to crack out too much plaster.
Sharp blades make more difference than anything, by a long shot.
zak
"so it goes"
I stumbled onto something that worked well for me in cutting lath and plaster: I opened a hole smaller than what I needed, calculated the edge of what I wanted to save, and then used PL Premium slathered onto a 2x to secure the edge of the stud to the old wood lath. Made a clean cut with a diamond blade in a skilsaw. Little plaster damage.I know this wouldn't always work in every situation, but it helped be out in carefully saving one side of a plastered wall.+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++"Doubt is not a pleasant condition, but certainty is absurd." Voltaire
That's a good one. If I've got good dust containment, I use a diamond blade in a grinder, but it kicks up an amazing amount of dust, as you know. Sawzall comes out to be the best compromise in some situations- I'll probably end up doing a little plaster repair, but not too much.zak
"so it goes"
The sawzall certainly throws less dust. In either case I like to have a helper holding a shopvac hose right there as I cut.+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++"Doubt is not a pleasant condition, but certainty is absurd." Voltaire
I think the option of orbital action makes much more difference than the stroke length. I have an original SawZall and a SuperSawzall, and that's my experience.
Forrest
I used one where the short stroke was mandatory.
I was cutting a cast iron stack pipe. It was too close to the wall stud and to the paster wall on the "backside" to use a pipe snapper. And the wall on the backside was remaining and I did not want to distube it.
As it was I had a hard time keeping the blade engaged in the pipe and not damaging the wall.
A long stroke saw would have made that impossible.
Now I have used it a few times for plung cuts, but no place critical. But I suspect that when use it to cut out a sub-floor and flexing the blade next to the wall to get a flush cut that you want a short strock saw.
BillH,When I have cut cast iron I used "Molley-Dee" cutting and tapping oil. The longer stroke saw I have is double-parked in the shop (Bosche "Panther") in favor of the Makitas. My wife uses it.Fz
so get a Bosch that has a dual stroke... 3/4 and 1-1/8...
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