I’m getting around to doing the screens on a screen porch I’m building, and I’m wondering about the sizing of the splines and their respective groove. I was thinking of starting with an 1/8″ groove and the 1/8″ (.125) spline. The thought being that as the groove in the wood got sloppier, you could always step up to the next spline.
I’m using pine for the perimeter that I’m splining screening onto. Pretty soft wood. The smallest available spline is .125″, stepping up .140, .160, .175, .190. I was thinking of starting with an 1/8″ groove and the 1/8″ (.125) spline.
Does this sound right to those of you who’ve made their own spline grooves in the past? Should the groove be the same size as the spline? larger maybe? Is there some reason I might want to start with a larger spline than 1/8″?
Also, I’m using the fairly thick pet screening.
Steve
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Here's what I did several yrs ago.
Rooted around a box of "odd" bits I had collected and found something larger than an eighth-but smaller than qtr. Made the groove-the posts and beam were already installed so I wanted to use my laminate trimmer- got a few inches of all available splines.
Tried them all, picked the one I thought most resembled the "push" needed in aluminum screen frames.
No pullout in all these yrs.
Get pcs, give it a test.
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Edited 7/22/2009 6:34 am ET by calvin
>>Get pcs, give it a test.<<I was kind of hoping to avoid that part of it...Oh well.
Yeah, 1/8" and 1/8" works well most of the time. Fiberglass screen is a bit thinner or less grabby in the groove VS. Alum. But stays stuck.
Most of the screening I've done has been in softer wood. And if you prime the sash before screening, and some gets in the groove, yer still OK.
I bow all the frames with clamps before screening so it comes out real nice and tight when I'm done rolling in the screen..like a drum. Nothing like a carpenter bee bouncing off like being hit with a tennis racket when they fly into a screen.
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Skip the spline and just staple the screen to the edge of the pine, use quarter round in the opening as stops and to hide the staples.
Remember the name of this site's sponser? What part of FINE does stapled screens fall under?Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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Thanks Duane.I'm going to cover the spline with a wood cover strip when done, so stapling would be OK, but I want to spline for easier future repairs and to get a snugger installation.
fine does not equate to expensive, complicated, or ..
It's neither more exp. or complicated to install a spline than staples, and you dont get them uneven tautness lines that staples can leave show.
I (for one) can tell the difference in screening of how it was installed. And replacement w/spline is a heckuva lot easier.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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Yeah, who wants to remove a zillion staples to change out a screen, and buy new molding because the old will be damaged or broken by the time it's off.Edit to say I would probably staple it myself because it's easier than routing a grove and finding spline to fit. Also, done right, stapled screen can be tight. You have to stretch the screen tight before stapling it. There are several easy ways to do that.
Edited 7/22/2009 1:34 pm ET by Dam_inspector
I don't rout the spline grooves, just a pass over the TS. I have used a router to finish up inside corners and such, but non-thin kerf TS blades make a decently wide groove mostly.
And I have seen too many unevenly stretched screens to want one stapled. And besides, with a spline, no moulding is even needed if not specifically wanted to hide the spline.
Whatever floats the boat I guess, if I'm being paid to make nice screens ( and I have, many) I do the spline as a matter of business practice.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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Steve,I built two screen doors this spring with pet screen. I used a 3/16" groove and .125 spline.
The pet screen I used was a scant 1/16".Chuck S.live, work, build, ...better with wood
Well, I went with a pass of a non thin-kerf blade on the table saw. Measured exactly 1/8". Then tried the .125 with the petscreen. It went in, but was a hard fit, so I took a second pass on the table saw. Couldn't have added much more than 1/64", but it made it go in much easier. Proof will be when I actually mount the screens. Lots of perimeters to install before that happens.Steve
If you stretch the spline as you roll it in, it goes easier.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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I have been looking for a way to retrofit scrren porches. Mostly they hang way out over the mountain.
Getting the old stapeled screen off is easy. Putting it back on is dangerous at age 62.
Perhaps a 3/4 stick of some wood with a spline groove...
Duane you inspire me. larry b
Glad to be of inspiring nature for you, no sense in taking hard earned techniques and knowldge to the grave now is there?
My first screen exp. was with waxed jute spline...not because rubber was not to be had, but the customer wanted it an exact reproduction of the old.
Now go fix yer dang screens (G)Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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One thing I don't like about aluminum screen and spline is that sometimes the cut edge of the screen is sharp, but other than that it is a better way to do screen.
Gotta angle the knife into the groove a tad when ya cut the screen. Against the side of the groove, then roll with the concave edge of the roller to tuck any "fingers" down.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt
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