To enclose a porch I’m making large, top-hinged screen units with 2X4 cedar frames to which I’ll attach fibreglass screen. I’d like to router (or saw kerf if the dimension is appropriate) a groove along one side of the frame to receive the spline. I’ve always seen screen stapled or tacked with a trim strip when applied to a wooden frame, but I haven’t seen a spline yet.
Has anyone out there tried making a spline in wood such as this? If the groove is in far enough from the edge I shouldn’t have a problem with splitting, and I can easily grind a router bit to the proper width for the groove.
Any helpful suggestions would be much appreciated.
Thankyou in advance – Brian.
Replies
I used a spline in the groove to screen in this porch. Did the routing in place as the framing was already in. Needed a jig for the corners, the guide on my laminate trimmer worked for the straights. I sized the spline for the bit, several sized spline stock available. Here's a shot of the porch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
What Cal said about the splines. I start with clear straight cedar 2x4 and rip one edge square. Next I rip that to square the other edge. I take that stock (now about 1 1/2"x 3 1/4") and saw it into 2" stock saving the off cut for later. Next I rip out a 1/2" by 3/4" rabbet, again save the off cut. Now it's time to rip the spline for the screen- 1/2" in from- the edge of the rabbet 3/16" wide and 1/4" deep.
Get out the router table. I dress the stock with the same bit usually an ogee; first the edge of the 1 1/2" x 2" that will become the face of the screen frame.( So put the rabbet up and towards the fence of the router table and run it.) Run one edge of the off cuts thru and you have screen bead from the rabbet stock and stop for the frame to abutt from the other off cut.
Build your screen frames about 1/8" smaller than your post openings- top to bottom and side to side. I put biscuits in the mitered corners of the frame and screw them together with 3" stainless. (drill pilot holes unless you want to lose your temper and kick your dog) Run the screws in from the short leg of the frames because more than likely you will have to plane the long sides down to mirror your posts.
Screen your frames- I use aluminum because fiberglass tears too easy. Use bar clamps to put a slight inward bow in the frames and the screen will tighten up like a drum when released. Install the screen bead.
Test the screened frames for fit and plane as necessary.Install the frame stop. I prefer it on the inside of the porch post. Place the frames tight to the stop and screw them in- again with stainless screws and pilot holes- through the frame just behind the ogee. Any slack in the screen will be drawn out as the frame is tightened to the posts.
looks like a million bucks- charge accordingly.
oh yeah- a standard wooden screen door is gonna look like sh!t next to your beautiful screens.
hub
Thanks for some good info and hints. I'm having the two ends made from aluminum screens with windows, which will also have the doors in them. I'll be using the screens between them for the face of the porch. Should look nice. The screen will hinge up to the ceiling when we want that open ambiance.
I prefer the fibreglass screens because they are black and easy to see through. Does anyone know if alum. screen is available in black?
Thanks - Brian.
Aluminum screen is available commonly in bright, charcoal, and black.
Other colors are avai;able, but on special order status.
IMO charcoal is the choice for your application.
.................Iron Helix
I've used the Screen Tight system from Home Depot. Very easy, looks great and not very expensive. Check out http://www.screentight.com.
Making a wood spline is a lot of work. I'd buy the vinyl spline and spend the extra $1.50 for the cheapo spline roller. Then, if you like, cover the spline with trim.
I ditto the suggestion of Screen Tite. It worked great for me.