Screwing is a problem for me – No it’s not what you think
mwgaines
| Posted in General Discussion on
My problem is that I have arthritis and it makes it difficult for me to install almost any type of screw-in fastener by hand. For that reason, I try to use a power screwdriver whenever possible. But then I encounter another problem: screws camming out.
I try to use either a torx or square drive when I can since the bits for those tend to grip firmly all the way in. However, there are often times when I have to use a phillips for whatever reason, and I always seem to strip out the head of the screw before I can get it fully driven. I see people using power screwdrivers on TV all the time with no problem at all. What am I doing wrong?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Replies
If you are still having a problem, you might try drilling a pilot hole. Also, in wood, I've used soap to 'grease' the threads when I knew the screwing would be iffy. I use old 'worn out' slivers of hand soap and just a touch of water (or spit).
You do have to use a lot of force, straight on, and use a power driver/drill that can go slow and doesn't tend to surge. Often a more powerful driver is better since it will be able to supply more torque at low speed. Up until you get into the oversized units, I strongly prefer drills with an "L" rather than a "T" handle, because they make it easier to apply the force in line. "T" handle units were all the rage a few years back, don't know what's in vogue now.
Beyond that, make sure you have the right sized bit (you should be able to "lock" it into the screw so that you can hold the screw horizontally on the bit), and make sure the bit isn't worn. (Just camming out 2-3 times can wreck a cheap bit, and unfortunately, virtually all bits made are "cheap" in this regard.)
If all else fails, drill a pilot hole and use soap.
Be aware that some screws (particularly on European cabinets) are "Posidrive", not Phillips. You need a special bit for those, even though a Phillips drive seems to fit. (Posidrive screws are identifiable by a sort of "X" marking on the head, at 45 degrees to the slots.)
MW
Pilot hole, the proper size tip or bit and I use wax, not soap. I had an experience with soap causing corrosion on some reg. cad plated screws. A long time ago I found Door Ease. Used to come in a round metal tube w/ lid. Now, no metal tube, but the stick is sized the same-so you can cram it in there. A soft wax, sticks to what you put it on. No corrosion and can make things like the wood drawer runners slide like butter. No longer sawdust in the underwear drawer.
When it's only a one-off situation I'll just pull the ChapStick out of my pocket and use that.
I'm not a chapstick user..............usually.
I more often than not (when in need of lip moistening), smooch up some hottie that's just replenished with her own brand-colored, flavored, or not.
Much more pleasurable.
And, being happily married-no worries about screwing.
No tongues.............
No penetration............
Words to live by Dan. Kept me in good graces these 33 yrs of bliss.
You're on the right track using square drive or torx. Phillips can be a bit of a pain. Just say no to Phillips. McFeeley's always has a deal on a square drive assortment of screws so you'll always have the right size on hand (until you find you don't have the right size on hand). GRK make very high quality torx screws . . . spendy though.
Ditto what others said about a pistol grip drill/driver being easier to get behind and put some muscle into as opposed to the now more common T-style grip.
Finally, get an impact driver. You can get the cheap Ryobi for $69 at Home Depot if you have any of the Ryobi 18V batteries already. It works fine. Not as nice as a Makita but it's about a third of the price. Impact drivers melt the screws in with much less stress and strain on the wrist and arm. You won't believe the difference.
What Fingers said.
An impact lets you use your weight to keep the driver deeply seated in the screw head while the machine handles all the rotational work. I don't think I've ever stripped a head with an impact.
I've had a few screw shanks break because of the impact's strength, but that's a different matter.
If you plan to drive lots and lots of screws, consider a corded machine:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dtools&field-keywords=makita+6952&x=0&y=0
Yup
+1 for the impact driver, much better than a drill. Look for bits with 'teeth' to help grab the screw. Unless a screw is designed to be self drilling (like a dry wall screw) always drill a pilot hole.
All the other advice is real good too.
The main problem I see with most tools in other peoples boxes is they have philips head tips that are sharp edged - like a 4 bladed knife, rather than square - like a 4 toothed gear.
Three things you should do to avoid your problem with stripping screws:
1. Buy a good magnetic bit holder, and a big batch of replacement philips bits. Don't get the drywall bits either. Get a few of the #3 size as well.
2. Make sure you are driving with the bit and driver in EXACTLY the same axis as the screw. I had another man help me frame my garage roof with screws, and I kept hearing the D-d-d-d-d-d-d-d-d of the bit slipping out of the fastener. Went over and helped him see how keeping the drill and fastener lined up made a big difference.
3. Don't overpower the fastener. I've got that Ryobi someone else mentioned, and it is pretty powerful. Great for 3" long screws, not so good for 3/4" screws. Look into one of the smaller 10.8/12v LiIon sets made by Bosch, Makita, Rigid, etc. I got a refurbished Makita set for $110. These are perfect small drivers. Also, use the torque limiter on the drill. When driving soft screws or soft woods, I'll use the drill to drive and set the torque release very low - like 4, then dial it up until it releases right when the head sinks.
When head strips, use a hammer. Screws drive and hold pretty good installed with a hammer <G>
Thanks for all the helpful comments. I plan to check out those impact drivers and use pilot holes more often. I also hope to purchase some self-centering drill bits at some point (I didn't even know those things existed until today). No wonder my hinges are always crooked. :0