Replies

1. 
   bkunkle | Dec 13, 1999 08:02am | #2

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   I have one of those little gold compases at least i think thats what their sold as I really dont think they are good for anything but scribing

2. 
   Guest_ | Dec 13, 1999 08:26am | #3

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   I use a dual metal pointed compass whem I'm in tight. The sharp metal point scores a line that I can highlight with a pencil. When you cut the scribed line always cut to the outside of the line and back cut it with a plane, saw, jigsaw, coping saw, what ever works. On inside corners I always cut a little tight with a sharp backbevel so the joint will be tight as it's pinched in place. I prefer a log scribe with a offset point for standard scribing where I have more room to work. For scribing overhangs I make a gauge that slips over the material with a pencil or nail set at the same distance as the opposite edge that follows the contour of the edge/wall to be scribed. Good luck, Bill Swales

1. 
   Guest_ | Dec 13, 1999 09:12am | #4

   *bear,Scribing is the sign of a real pro.There has been some great stuff said here. I like the idea of using the router as the scribe......but like the man says.....it must take a lot of practice. I quess with that method you only get one shot. But if it works, then you've saved yourself a couple of steps. Interesting.Under-cutting or back-cutting is a real good trick. Can't be beat.I have one of those little gold things too. They are made by General and can be hard to find. However, they work sooooooo much better than the standard school boy compass. A pencil alone works fine in tight areas. and once we made a scribe that was about 3 feet tall for a wierd stiuation we were in. I also made one that would reach about 12" in for a curved balcony/stair winder/landing we had to do.Keep scribing,Ed. Williams

1. 
   Guest_ | Dec 13, 1999 10:21am | #5

   *I use a compass.. For sall amounts I use a pencil or a carpenters pencil. To adjust the pencil I wrap masking tape around the pencil. I use a 3X24 belt sander with #60 grit to grind to the scribe line. I scribe cabinet bases, counter tops and anything else that needs scribed this way. L. Siders

1. 
   Guest_ | Dec 13, 1999 04:28pm | #6

   *Best thing I ever did was buy a second one of those little gold compasses and bend the metal point about 1/4" out with some pliers. Kept the other one straight, but the bent one works better for stone and highly irregular surfaces.

1. 
   Guest_ | Dec 14, 1999 04:45am | #7

   *Bear, now that i re-read your post, i understand the "less than an 1/8" ." Pull the entire pc. you are trying to scribe out to whatever is comfortable. Pull it out 3/4 and scribe 3/4. I'm sure you understand the basic part of the scribe, so there is no need to mention those pts. Back cutting is a good trick most times, whether with a saw or sander. Maybe the hardest part of the job is keeping the pc. being scribed in position while you do it. Some times you'll wish you'd have 4 hands. Very important is keeping the tool you use to scribe perpendicular to what you are scribing. Masking tape is good to use when scribing dark lam. or stained wood. A smoother tape if you can find it, will produce a more crisp line.best of luck.

3. 
   Chris_Metzger | Dec 14, 1999 06:04am | #8

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   I install cabinets and countertops for a living. EVERY DAY it's cabinets, cabinets, cabinets. However, I never have used a compass. There never seems to be a time when just a normal pencil won't work. Granted, sometimes that pencil is a fat carpenters pencil, but it still works. Often times what I will do is cut off a shim at just the right thickness as the largest area of gap and just trace along that. There's an excellent article in (I think the Oct. issue of Fine Homebuilding) on countertop installations. That guy was actually using a very sharp hand plane to scribe the back of a laminate countertop. It sure would seem to cut down dust from that noisy belt sander I use every day. I'm going to try it myself one of these days. I don't know if any of this helped, but I could'nt resist answering a question that I finally had some insight on.

1. 
   Gary_Katz | Dec 14, 1999 09:12am | #9

   *Great scribing suggestions! I use a general (gold) compass, too. I've used them for years. I have a Cross lead pencil in mine, so I don't have to sharpen it. It's in my tool belt every day and I use it every day, scribing doors, shelves, casing, crown, base, etc. Scribing in one step is a great feeling thing, especially a full length of casing that hits a wall well before you've got the right reveal. Sometimes I tack paintgrade casing so it's parallel to the jamb--one nail top and bottom, before scribing. Sometimes I use tape. A small panel saw works well for cutting scribes on casing. They're easy to hold at a back-cut angle, and high rpms make for smoother faster cutting. On pre-finished stained doors (hard to leave a pencil mark), I stick on blue tape before scribing. Sometimes I use my door plane to cut scribes on backsplashes, shelveing, etc., if I'm afraid to hit something with my saw.

4. 
   Guest_ | Dec 15, 1999 07:33pm | #10

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   One of my best little "inventions" was to cut a piece of
   3/4"x 3/4" by about 2" long oak. I drilled a pencil-sized
   hole through end, offset so that hole is different distance
   from each side of square. Great when gap is greater than 1/2
   thickness of pencil. Always keep 4H pencils around for crisp
   lines.

                   

                               

1. 
   Guest_ | Dec 15, 1999 08:04pm | #11

   *Bending one side of a drafting compass, (preferrably one with removable points), works best...as previously mentioned(to get in close). A Jigsaw with a bevel base works well for back cutting for a tight fit. I always cut it, place it and make any minor adjustments by eye. The BEST thing I have ever seen was to mount a bubble level to the stem to insure the compass(or scribe) stays level. Credit for the creation of that should go to Kevin Murphy of Collingwood, Ontario. I know Lee Valley Tools is working on releasing a tool with that feature if they have not all ready.L

1. 
   Guest_ | Dec 16, 1999 06:37am | #12

   *Try scribing on something to make a pattern ie a piece of cardboard or luan then test fit ,transfer , cut and WALA!

1. 
   Guest_ | Dec 16, 1999 08:24am | #13

   *Lee Valley does have a compass with a level. It's the tool I refered to in my earlier post as a log scribe. Very nice tool. Has level, dual metal pointers with 360deg. swivel on both pointers, and one pointer is bent to an offset. Log home builders have used them for years. I use mine for scribing trim to irregular wall like stone, Duplicating mouldings, etc. Works great.

1. 
   Guest_ | Dec 16, 1999 08:39am | #14

   *jerry - it's "voila" - or is it "viola" - anyway it's not "wala"

5. 
   Guest_ | Jan 05, 2000 05:26am | #15

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   I was wondering if anyone has any good tips on
   scribing things like: fireplace mantels, cabinets,
   countertops, etc. My compass is very clumbsy at
   1/8 inch or less. I have started using masking
   tape to make my pencil line show up better. Any
   ideas?

   Thanks

1. 
   Guest_ | Dec 13, 1999 06:58am | #1

   *For small scribes I like to use just a pencil alone.Sharpen a nice chisel point by rubbing it on some scrap paper and lay it flat against the wall.You can get different scribe distances by using a regular round pencil, a carpenters pencil flat and a carpenters pencil on edge.Just be sure to hold it plumb or level the whole way thru the scribe so it marks evenly.I've seen counter top backsplashes scribed and cut in one motion with a router.Haven't tried it myself yet but you set the countertop away from the wall so the bit trims the scribe strip and the base plate follows the contour of the wall.Worked pretty neat , but I assume it takes a bit of practice.